Jump to content

110 TD5 Starter motor removal


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm trying to remove the starter motor from a td5 110 I have just bought as it doesn't / won't start.

(told it was running...?)

I have a full charged battery, even tried tow starting it.

Engine just clunks, as if was in gear, so I guess that the started motor is jamming.

I have removed the 2x lower bolts but haven't had any luck with the top nut.

I guess this is a nut on to a stud?

I can see it just can't get to it...?

Any ideas..?

Cheers Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep upper fixing is a M10x 25mm stud & M10 hex nut,

RAVE says disconnect battery, remove fixings & underside panel, disconnect Lucar connector & nut & battery lead from solenoid, then remove 2 x bolts & 1 x nut & remove starter from vehicle,

seems it's a lie on your back under the engine type job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your replies, looks like a rebuild job is on the cards, if only I can get the ~~~#ing thing offf..

cheers

dave

Yep, top fixing is a sod to get off until you get the right combination of extensons on the socket etc...

I am told many garages don't bother refitting it - I did, much easier putting it back :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a full charged battery, even tried tow starting it.

Engine just clunks, as if was in gear, so I guess that the started motor is jamming.

Does the engine fire and run when tow started? If not, there is something more to the problem than the starter motor. Suggest it is ECU related.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have removed the 2x lower bolts but haven't had any luck with the top nut.

I guess this is a nut on to a stud?

I can see it just can't get to it...?

Hi Dave,

I went through this particular problem a couple of weeks back :angry:

A "standard" socket wrench "short" extension and an ever-so-slightly grinder-modified deep draw socket ;)

does the trick;

gallery_407_73_4096.jpg

Needs to be under 8" or 200mm length overall, but over 190mm, and you will need to grind down the end to clear the side of the casting.

You may also need to buy some vasoline :blink: to smear over your arm to get it to fit down the hole in the manifold between the cy4 and cy5.

ttfn

Matthew

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dave,

I went through this particular problem a couple of weeks back :angry:

A "standard" socket wrench "short" extension and an ever-so-slightly grinder-modified deep draw socket ;)

does the trick;

gallery_407_73_4096.jpg

Needs to be under 8" or 200mm length overall, but over 190mm, and you will need to grind down the end to clear the side of the casting.

You may also need to buy some vasoline :blink: to smear over your arm to get it to fit down the hole in the manifold between the cy4 and cy5.

ttfn

Matthew

Thanks Matthew, the ground down socket is the secret, turns out to be a faulty ignition switch.

If I turn the key it just clucks like it's in gear, but if I turn the key backwards and give it a technial wiggle engine turns over fine....!!!! AHhhh...

Cheers

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy