mike4444244 Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Hi I'm getting round to my first MOT following an 18 month rebuild, however the alternator is not charging, The warning light stays on and i have put a multimeter across the battery and its just showing 12V ie not charging. I think I can safely assume the alternators not at fault as it worked perfectly before the rebuild and has just been sat on the car since. When I did a bit of rewiring i accidently earthed a mysterious looking device under the wing near the brake servo which resulted in a large cloud of smoke as the earth wire i put on glowed red and melted, so i assume it was a positive feed I think it may be a split charge relay (the landy is ex police) but it looks like a large resistor not much like a relay... Does the panel think I have knackered the charging system wiring somewhere, and if so is it possible to build a new bit of loom for it? I have a big welding cable to run straight back to the battery as i'll upgrade the alternator in the future, I also have one of Si's gucci split charge relays so dont need to keep the original if thats what it is... On a similar note, could someone who has a husky please confirm for me that the earth bolt is the one under the motor? also which colours in the switch circuit are for in/out? finally! the cable feeds onto the top of the drum, it looks like it will rub on the inside of my bumper so is it best to pay it all out and feed the wire onto the bottom of the drum? Its new to me and before anyone says it, yes I will go on a course before i use it, i just want to make sure its set up correctly first Ta Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Yes to motor bolt for earth use, the attached Husky wiring diagram should help, note colours to back of remote socket not detailed as you can use your own wires for this. looking at the rear of the remote socket -- top left is winch in top right is common power feed lower right is winch out the winch cable/rope is best as a underrun [under the drum] so take it all off & refit passing the cable through the fairlead & under the drum to fit in the drum attachment hole from the rear, push cable/rope through till it's flush with the drum face nearest you & secure with the grubscrew, then wind on the rest. as for the other bit & alternator not charging I reckon you've fried somthing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Could the large resistor type thing have been a diode to split the charge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 it could be the later dim dip resistor you cooked IIRC it's bolted to the RH rear vertical of the inner wing adjacent to the brake servo, you've possibly fried the diodes in the alt too if the ignition light is on when ignition is off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 15, 2007 Author Share Posted April 15, 2007 Hi I think alt was disconnected when the diode/resistor thing got cooked, In the interest of speed, would it be possible for me just to build the whole circuit from the alt to the warning light rather than trying to fault find? Ralph you dont happen to have a part no for that resistor do you? Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 can you put up a picture of the dead one, might help me identify it for you, does your 110 have air con fitted ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 15, 2007 Author Share Posted April 15, 2007 Hi I'll try and get a pic up tomorrow evening, I dont have aircon fitted, Ta Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 HiI'll try and get a pic up tomorrow evening, I dont have aircon fitted, Ta Mike Cheers, I'm sure it will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Horsevad Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Quite easy to test the alternator If the alternator is fully functional then it only needs: A connection from B+ on alternator to positive terminal on battery (or common point on stater solenoid) and A connection from D+ on alternator over charge warning lamp (min 2 watt bulb) to positive terminal on battery. This is normally taken from and ignition switched supply - else the 2 watt bulb will drain the battery if the vehicle stands still for long time. (If alternator is equipped with remote voltage sensing regulator then it will also need a connection from "sens" to positive battery terminal. If above connections are made, and the alternator is functioning, you should see around 14,2 volts at the batteries when the alternator is charging. If the warning light stays on then the voltage potential between positive battery terminal and positive feed from alternator is different. Normally this indicates a faulte alternator, but if the connection between the charge warning lamp and the alternator is short-circuted anywhere this will also make the charge warning lamp glow, and the alternator will not produce any current. (The alternator needs the small current that passes throug the charge warning lamp to exite the field windings) Btw. Your description of the "smoking" wires sounds like somebody forgot to put a correctly rated fuse in that circut. The wires should always be rated higher than the fuse for that particular circut. (Edited to remove wrongly included quoute) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 16, 2007 Author Share Posted April 16, 2007 ahhh now i'm starting to understand how the light goes out when its got a supply to it, its cos its got 12v either side right?! just because i'm a complete dunce when it comes to wiring could you just confirm that this is right? thanks mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 That's the puppy. Just to hijack the thread a bit, I want to put an LED in line instead but that obviously introduces the issue of a voltage drop, one-way traffic, and a lack of current sourcing. Any way round this or do I have to give in and fit a traditional bulb to my as-yet-unmade bling dashboard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Not thought about it a great deal, but could you not put a suitably sized resistor across the LED? I don't think the polarity of the LED will be an issue, though it possibly might not show an alternator diode fault, when it's possible current might flow the opposite way to usual. The alternator only needs exciting to get it going, then the regulator takes over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 16, 2007 Author Share Posted April 16, 2007 right then, pics of the mystery component! and while i was at it i took a pic of my car just so you can see how the rebuild is going! Ta Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 the XBL10003 label on that resistor is missing the last digit L, which idents it as the dim dip resistor current LR part number is still XBL10003L. a new one in 2002 was £14.47 pus VAT. the relay control unit [YWC10050L] this resistor works with should be either behind the fusebox or engine side of bulkhead. as your 110 is later than my 1989 G reg, yours has the later dimdip system fitted whereas mine is a black box with a finned surface bolted behind the instrument pack [well it was till I moved it to the engine bay side of the bulkhead] hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Fouteen quid for a resistor! If you can read an ohms value off it you can buy one from Maplins or RS These are £3 and 50W dissipation: These are £5 and 100W which I think is probably overkill: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 wow that £5 one certainly adds more bling to the car just connect it in and replace the presumably burnt out relay? Ta Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 Yeah but you need to know what the old one is first - if you stick the wrong value in you'll either have no lights or another hot wire if you can take a clear photo of the text on top we should be able to decipher it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 Just to hijack the thread a bit, I want to put an LED in line instead but that obviously introduces the issue of a voltage drop, one-way traffic, and a lack of current sourcing. Any way round this or do I have to give in and fit a traditional bulb to my as-yet-unmade bling dashboard? No. The light needs to work both ways. If there is no charge, it power from the battery to the alternator. If the recitfier is gone, it can power the other way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 So if you stuck two LED's on - one green for "normal" charge light and one red for "fault" charge light and reverse-biased the red one you would know if the alt was going bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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