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Help with wiring needed


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Hi

I'm getting round to my first MOT following an 18 month rebuild, however the alternator is not charging, The warning light stays on and i have put a multimeter across the battery and its just showing 12V ie not charging. I think I can safely assume the alternators not at fault as it worked perfectly before the rebuild and has just been sat on the car since. When I did a bit of rewiring i accidently earthed a mysterious looking device under the wing near the brake servo which resulted in a large cloud of smoke as the earth wire i put on glowed red and melted, so i assume it was a positive feed :ph34r: I think it may be a split charge relay (the landy is ex police) but it looks like a large resistor not much like a relay... Does the panel think I have knackered the charging system wiring somewhere, and if so is it possible to build a new bit of loom for it? I have a big welding cable to run straight back to the battery as i'll upgrade the alternator in the future, I also have one of Si's gucci split charge relays so dont need to keep the original if thats what it is...

On a similar note, could someone who has a husky please confirm for me that the earth bolt is the one under the motor? also which colours in the switch circuit are for in/out?

finally! the cable feeds onto the top of the drum, it looks like it will rub on the inside of my bumper so is it best to pay it all out and feed the wire onto the bottom of the drum? Its new to me and before anyone says it, yes I will go on a course before i use it, i just want to make sure its set up correctly first :)

Ta

Mike

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Yes to motor bolt for earth use, the attached Husky wiring diagram should help, note colours to back of remote socket not detailed as you can use your own wires for this.

looking at the rear of the remote socket --

top left is winch in

top right is common power feed

lower right is winch out

the winch cable/rope is best as a underrun [under the drum] so take it all off & refit passing the cable through the fairlead & under the drum to fit in the drum attachment hole from the rear, push cable/rope through till it's flush with the drum face nearest you & secure with the grubscrew, then wind on the rest.

as for the other bit & alternator not charging I reckon you've fried somthing.

post-20-1176583392_thumb.jpg

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it could be the later dim dip resistor you cooked IIRC it's bolted to the RH rear vertical of the inner wing adjacent to the brake servo, you've possibly fried the diodes in the alt too if the ignition light is on when ignition is off

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Hi

I think alt was disconnected when the diode/resistor thing got cooked, In the interest of speed, would it be possible for me just to build the whole circuit from the alt to the warning light rather than trying to fault find? Ralph you dont happen to have a part no for that resistor do you? :)

Thanks

Mike

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Quite easy to test the alternator

If the alternator is fully functional then it only needs:

A connection from B+ on alternator to positive terminal on battery (or common point on stater solenoid)

and

A connection from D+ on alternator over charge warning lamp (min 2 watt bulb) to positive terminal on battery. This is normally taken from and ignition switched supply - else the 2 watt bulb will drain the battery if the vehicle stands still for long time.

(If alternator is equipped with remote voltage sensing regulator then it will also need a connection from "sens" to positive battery terminal.

If above connections are made, and the alternator is functioning, you should see around 14,2 volts at the batteries when the alternator is charging.

If the warning light stays on then the voltage potential between positive battery terminal and positive feed from alternator is different. Normally this indicates a faulte alternator, but if the connection between the charge warning lamp and the alternator is short-circuted anywhere this will also make the charge warning lamp glow, and the alternator will not produce any current. (The alternator needs the small current that passes throug the charge warning lamp to exite the field windings)

Btw. Your description of the "smoking" wires sounds like somebody forgot to put a correctly rated fuse in that circut. The wires should always be rated higher than the fuse for that particular circut.

(Edited to remove wrongly included quoute)

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That's the puppy.

Just to hijack the thread a bit, I want to put an LED in line instead but that obviously introduces the issue of a voltage drop, one-way traffic, and a lack of current sourcing. Any way round this or do I have to give in and fit a traditional bulb to my as-yet-unmade bling dashboard? :unsure:

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Not thought about it a great deal, but could you not put a suitably sized resistor across the LED?

I don't think the polarity of the LED will be an issue, though it possibly might not show an alternator diode fault, when it's possible current might flow the opposite way to usual.

The alternator only needs exciting to get it going, then the regulator takes over.

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the XBL10003 label on that resistor is missing the last digit L, which idents it as the dim dip resistor current LR part number is still XBL10003L. a new one in 2002 was £14.47 pus VAT. the relay control unit [YWC10050L] this resistor works with should be either behind the fusebox or engine side of bulkhead.

as your 110 is later than my 1989 G reg, yours has the later dimdip system fitted whereas mine is a black box with a finned surface bolted behind the instrument pack [well it was till I moved it to the engine bay side of the bulkhead]

hth :i-m_so_happy:

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Just to hijack the thread a bit, I want to put an LED in line instead but that obviously introduces the issue of a voltage drop, one-way traffic, and a lack of current sourcing. Any way round this or do I have to give in and fit a traditional bulb to my as-yet-unmade bling dashboard? :unsure:

No. The light needs to work both ways. If there is no charge, it power from the battery to the alternator. If the recitfier is gone, it can power the other way.

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