smo Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 I'm currently stripping some 2002 TD5 90 Axles, this is all fine however i ordered parts for the rebuild that needed replacement before i took them apart in anticipation. So why is it now i am stripping them down they dont match what Microcat said they would, or indeed the workshop manuals for either TD5 or 300Tdi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 What parts are different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted April 22, 2007 Author Share Posted April 22, 2007 The hub nut arrangement, all the diagrams and parts lists show washers with tabs and multiple hub nuts etc but mine just has a thumping great hub nut with a flat beaten onto it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Thats the later type called a stake nut, swap the stubaxles over & use the original 2 nuts & lock washer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted April 22, 2007 Author Share Posted April 22, 2007 I'm not overly keen on swapping the stub axles for the sake of it, but why are these "stake nuts" not shown on microcat for my VIN or in the TD5 workshop manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 The stake nut could be part number RFD100000. the 2 nuts per side are FRC8700, most likely not shown on the parts page as it's easier & quicker to just update the list/descripton of part numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Thats the later type called a stake nut, swap the stubaxles over & use the original 2 nuts & lock washer. Ralph, does one have to swap the whole stub axle over? or could just the locknuts be swapped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 IIRC the stub for the stake nut has a groove cut in it so the nut can be locked once torqued up & bearing end float is correct, the 2 types of stub 1 has a groove for the lock washer tab to fit in & 1 is a D section with a D hole lock washer, my 110 has the 'D' type stubaxles, not seen the others close up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRB60 Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Have had a few of these apart lately. It's not necessary to change the stub axle. The stub for the stake nut has the flat and not the groove. You can either just replace with the 2 nuts and lock washer. If you need to adjust the bearings, you will need to remove the spacer inbetween the two bearings and set it up the old way. Stuart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 I thought it was similar to older Ford car hub design where the nut was staked into a slot/groove on the stub axle, I've not seen the LR version close up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 Crickey, you don't ever believe the sketches in the parts books do you??? I think the sketch artist at LR died twenty years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted April 23, 2007 Author Share Posted April 23, 2007 Have had a few of these apart lately. It's not necessary to change the stub axle. The stub for the stake nut has the flat and not the groove. You can either just replace with the 2 nuts and lock washer. If you need to adjust the bearings, you will need to remove the spacer inbetween the two bearings and set it up the old way. Stuart If i keep them set up as they are, how do i reasemble them to the correct settings as i have no manual telling me what to tighten to what settings!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 Using the same shims/spacers that come out will mean that everything is set up ok. You tighten hub nut to 20 lbs/ft, rotate and push pull hub to seat bearings and then tighten to 150 lbs/ft or just friggin tight Drive member bolts are tightened to 48 lbs/ft. btw the manual recommends replacing hub nut and drive member bolts each time - up to you I'll look up pages on Rave for you this evening and give you page numbers, IIRC they are under Front and rear suspension in 1999 supplement. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 If i keep them set up as they are, how do i reasemble them to the correct settings as i have no manual telling me what to tighten to what settings!? Torque wrench set to 15Nm, job done. If you need any spare nuts give me a shout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted April 23, 2007 Author Share Posted April 23, 2007 Cheers guys, most appreciated, however is it 150ft/lbs or 15nm cos they are VERY different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRB60 Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 Just had a look on Rave. Hub Nut - 210Nm or 150lbs/ft Drive Member Bolts - 65Nm or 48lbs/ft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 Hi smo Rave TD5 supplement pages are 372-374 for hub bearings, it also has a table for end float with corresponding spacers. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted April 23, 2007 Author Share Posted April 23, 2007 Thanks Steve, I'll pop off and download RAVE as i dont have it here. Cheers Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted April 24, 2007 Share Posted April 24, 2007 Cheers guys, most appreciated, however is it 150ft/lbs or 15nm cos they are VERY different Sorry, my mistake, snug it to 15nm, then torque to 200nm when the bearings are settled. At least this is what we get told and what GTR says But then again, someone else probably knows better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porny Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 You can convert later axles to an earlier set-up... Can't be hard, even Scorpion have copied designed a kit. http://www.scorpionracing.co.uk/OFFROAD/ht.../inner/nuts.htm Under 4x4, wheels and tyres, and then wheel nuts and bearing kit. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted April 26, 2007 Author Share Posted April 26, 2007 But why would i want to? The later design appears to do the job and requires less parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 But why would i want to?The later design appears to do the job and requires less parts? I assume it's to save the trial and error fit of spacers if you have to change bearings. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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