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HELP! 2inch lift problem


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Hey,

Im new here, i was directed from other less technical forums, i have looked through other posts about this problem, which seem similar but no clear answer. So i thought i Would explain my problem in full to gain some tailored advice hopefully.....

First off the car ........

(90 Defender 300tdi (95), 2 inch procomp lift, r380 which was Rebuilt by ASHCROFT a year ago including fitting of a TD5 mainshaft and transfer gear also the transfer box was rebuilt and ASHCROFTs Q gears were fitted

Also a new clutch and operating fork was fitted a year before that)

I recently drove the 6hrs to University from home.

3 hrs in to the trip there was a vibration through 45-65 mph. Not in the steering, sort of in the car itself, this stopped when i depressed the clutch, but then there was a horrible squeaky sound when it slowed down and then set off again, which disappeared at high speed, only to be replaced by the vibration.

I continued and got it here, i took it to a local garage here (south wales) which i am unfamiliar with, and as i am not that savvy with 4x4's (being a new owner) i want to ensure i am being given correct advice and not going to end up out of pocket.

Cost me £150 for him to look at it, however as he thought it was the steering he replaced the N/S/F steering joint, drop joint and knuckle joint in the price...this however did not fix the problem, but that needed doing anyway.

After looking at it some more he noted for me what needed doing,

'due to the lift kit fitted a strain has been put on the front axle and drivetrain.

The front differential has possible damage to the crown wheel or planet gears.

The O/S/F hub has lift, could be adjusted (bearing play).

There is also lift in the front output shaft of the transfer box (possibly be taken out with adjustment)

The front prop shaft has play in the sliding joint.

To solve the problem, radius arms and panhard rod will need to be replaced with the correct angle.

.the diff will need to be replaced'

Following this he offered me a used diff at £120 (minus 4 hrs fitting)...

So i am stuck, some forums have said its not the diff, however i clearly saw the car in diff lock on the ramp and the N/S/F wheel was not moving like the other 3.

Others say panhard rod is not needed, along with people saying radius correction not needed, saying its a front propshaft fault and that needs replacing with a double cardon one. Or a propshaft phasing problem.

I am lost with this, and not much money being a student....

I welcome any advice, as well as Private messages, or if you live near Pontypridd (south wales) pop in for a brew and have a look :-) ...i am looking to go to europe in it soon, and i also need to get home so it is quite urgent.

thanks for taking the time to read this and please be as clear as you can with advice..as i am rather slow :-).......Rob

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Maybe the first thing is to remove the front prop and check u/js and slip joint for play while its off and drive the 90 without front prop. Then tell us if it is OK with the prop removed (props are a common problem esp with lift).

Don't think your diff is a likely candidate but with th prop removed (you've done that above) and BOTH front wheels still on the ground can you turn the diff input flange? The amount of play can seem worrying but if you CAN'T turn the input flange a full turn or more then it is most likely fine (if you CAN then you have a problem in the front axle but it could be diff or halfshaft or cv..).

So, two 14mm spanners and a little time might save a lot more than the cost of the spanners.

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Hey,

Im new here, i was directed from other less technical forums, i have looked through other posts about this problem, which seem similar but no clear answer. So i thought i Would explain my problem in full to gain some tailored advice hopefully.....

First off the car ........

(90 Defender 300tdi (95), 2 inch procomp lift, r380 which was Rebuilt by ASHCROFT a year ago including fitting of a TD5 mainshaft and transfer gear also the transfer box was rebuilt and ASHCROFTs Q gears were fitted

Also a new clutch and operating fork was fitted a year before that)

I recently drove the 6hrs to University from home.

3 hrs in to the trip there was a vibration through 45-65 mph. Not in the steering, sort of in the car itself, this stopped when i depressed the clutch, but then there was a horrible squeaky sound when it slowed down and then set off again, which disappeared at high speed, only to be replaced by the vibration.

I continued and got it here, i took it to a local garage here (south wales) which i am unfamiliar with, and as i am not that savvy with 4x4's (being a new owner) i want to ensure i am being given correct advice and not going to end up out of pocket.

Cost me £150 for him to look at it, however as he thought it was the steering he replaced the N/S/F steering joint, drop joint and knuckle joint in the price...this however did not fix the problem, but that needed doing anyway.

After looking at it some more he noted for me what needed doing,

'due to the lift kit fitted a strain has been put on the front axle and drivetrain.

The front differential has possible damage to the crown wheel or planet gears.

The O/S/F hub has lift, could be adjusted (bearing play).

There is also lift in the front output shaft of the transfer box (possibly be taken out with adjustment)

The front prop shaft has play in the sliding joint.

To solve the problem, radius arms and panhard rod will need to be replaced with the correct angle.

.the diff will need to be replaced'

Following this he offered me a used diff at £120 (minus 4 hrs fitting)...

So i am stuck, some forums have said its not the diff, however i clearly saw the car in diff lock on the ramp and the N/S/F wheel was not moving like the other 3.

Others say panhard rod is not needed, along with people saying radius correction not needed, saying its a front propshaft fault and that needs replacing with a double cardon one. Or a propshaft phasing problem.

I am lost with this, and not much money being a student....

I welcome any advice, as well as Private messages, or if you live near Pontypridd (south wales) pop in for a brew and have a look :-) ...i am looking to go to europe in it soon, and i also need to get home so it is quite urgent.

thanks for taking the time to read this and please be as clear as you can with advice..as i am rather slow :-).......Rob

Welcome Rob,

First off don't panic. :D

When you lift the suspension the angle changes on the prop to the diff, standard 90 prop should cope.

Without driving it etc it's hard to say, and I'm not saying the garage is wrong but... some of the most common (and cheapily fixed problems) are:

1. UJ's - lift kits put strain on them as they operate at increased angle. The rear can play up but it 'appears' like the front so don't rule it out.

2. Front prop bearings, especially the output side of the transfer box. Mine went and had same symptom.

3. Shims in the swivel bearings (either end of the front axle) need adjusting

I doubt it will be the front diff as unless your 90 has had a beasting off road, they tend not to go. Cranked radius arms will help, but then you need the double cardon prop and then etc etc.

My Golden rule is, always check the cheap stuff first and only resort to the expensive stuff when you have ruled out the former.

Good luck

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Rob

I see a pattern emerging! You have posted this now on the 3 forums I frequent (and who knows how many others) and almost every person to reply has suggested checking your UJs. Time to stop posting and get down on your back and start looking.

Whereabouts in south wales are you? Plenty of us around who would look at it if you really aren't that confident.

Mark

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Hey, thanks for all your help guys, yes i have posted this on several sites, just to get a varied opinion..... the propshaft UJ's seem common gonna get on my back tomorrow and have a good look..... i am posting this at 1:39am! been looking through forums searching and searching all night.....Propshafts seem the likely problem....wil keep ya posted.

I am in pontypridd in south wales if anyone is about....thanks everyone :rolleyes:

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After so many responses, i have checked the diff (usual...jacked up,centre diff,moved wheel) all seems ok there they move the normal amount....i am not going to try the UJ's and Props.....i thought i would post some pics..as you guys know what you are looking at.....

Front Prop

DSC09830Small.jpg

Front Prop (transfer end)

DSC09831Small.jpg

Rear Prop

DSC09832Small.jpg

Anything stand out, obviously un-toward?...thanks again....Rob :rolleyes:

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Just took her out for a spin, the front UJ transfer end seems hotter then all the rest....this normal...seems to be play in this one too...although not a great amount...Rob

Nope, that's not really normal. Heat is from friction, maybe due to the UJ siezing.

Time to take the front prop off and have a good look at it and drive about and see if your problems go away.

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Yeh definate play in the Front transfer UJ, cant get the prop off for the life of me tho, none of the bolts wanna shift....and no WD...

Willl keep trying......Pontypridd...if anyone about wants to help.....thanks again...Rob

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Yeh definate play in the Front transfer UJ, cant get the prop off for the life of me tho, none of the bolts wanna shift....and no WD...

You´ll be wanting one of these:

DF180.jpg

from difflock.com

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You´ll be wanting one of these:

DF180.jpg

from difflock.com

Why ?? Two 9/16 combination spanners have always done the job for me. Why use a numb 1/2" drive tool anyway. :unsure:

Perhaps if the previous owner or his mechanic had put the job together correctly the nuts would come undone. It is not easy to undo a bolt head with a nut on the other end that is held in place by the flange.

mike FOAK

YES !! It is a free country. As long as you do as you are told.

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UJs most likely as suggest here and D4x4. i have found the difflock prop tool invaluable and much quicker to use to remove the UJ bolts than spanner but each to their own.

once the prop is off go for a spin with the diff lock engaged and see if its still there. if so then its not the UJs or front prop!

dount its the diff in the front axle

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Just wanna say thankyou so much to all who helped me with my problem,

fitted a new prop with 2 new UJ's and drove the 6 hrs home yesterday with no problems at all...you guys saved me a fortune..it is obvious the garage was trying to con me....

..I can name the garage if you want me too..to fore warn others...

Once again THANKYOU!...has really made me appreciate the use of forums, and decide to leave other useless ones.

Thanks ;)

P.S..the 90 is now getting prepped for europe so be prepared for many more questions :rolleyes:

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