Gromit Posted July 8, 2007 Share Posted July 8, 2007 I put in 2 inch lift at the back last week and I started getting some growly vibes when switching from drive to overrun. At about 60mph it´s pretty bad. When driving or on overrun there´s no noise, it´s only when there´s no load on the transmission. I reckoned the lift was showing up some wear in the prop shaft UJs, so yesterday I changed both UJs on the rear prop. Annoyingly, the vibes are still there So, what else could it be? Suggestions on a post card please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted July 8, 2007 Author Share Posted July 8, 2007 looking underneath, the only play I can see is possibly the transfer output bearing. Moving the prop shaft yields about 1mm of movement at the outside edge of the handbrake drum. Could this cause the noise? Should the transfer end be completely play free, as it is on the diff end of the prop? anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimfoo Posted July 8, 2007 Share Posted July 8, 2007 You have changed the pinon angle with the lift. If you measure the angle of the flange on the transfer case and the angle of the flange on the diff, you will see that they are no longer parallel. If you have leaf springs, you can either put wedges under the springs or extend the front spring hangers. If you have a coiler, the easiest thing to do is change the length of the radius arms in back, and probably buy appropriate control arms as they will need to both be the right length, and have some bends in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPR Posted July 8, 2007 Share Posted July 8, 2007 Jim's correct of course - I assume the lift is on the 110? But a genuine 2" lift shouldn't really need cranked arms especially as you have more room to play with on a 110. At 3" you start needing to change stuff. Before doing that, try filling the rear end with a couple of hundred pounds of something or other and then bouncing it across a field for about 30 minutes. Leave the weight in the back overnight and then unload and drive it around a bit. If that doesn't settle the springs and you still have prop vibration, you may indeed need to adjust pinion angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted July 9, 2007 Author Share Posted July 9, 2007 Before doing that, try filling the rear end with a couple of hundred pounds of something or other and then bouncing it across a field for about 30 minutes. Leave the weight in the back overnight and then unload and drive it around a bit. If that doesn't settle the springs and you still have prop vibration, you may indeed need to adjust pinion angle. Thanks RPR. These are britpart springs. Front is ok, but the back has that dragracer look. For a 2" lift, it looks pretty high. so, I put in about 40 concrete H blocks in the back and now it looks like this, and the vibration is gone Drove about for a while and it's been sitting all day with the blocks in the back. Don't know if it'll stay at a more normal height once I remove the blocks. If not, who supplies corrected rear radius arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 If you mean trailing arms then you need some of Jez's ones. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted July 9, 2007 Author Share Posted July 9, 2007 If you mean trailing arms then you need some of Jez's ones. yes, sorry trailing arms. Details?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Find a post by dollythelw and click on the link in the signature, or drop him a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted July 9, 2007 Author Share Posted July 9, 2007 Find a post by dollythelw Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 I have the same +2" springs on my 110, no sign of any vibes. the only downside in the lift has been the wandering steering at high speed. Mine have been on for 8 months and haven't settled much if at all and I carry a lot of weight around in it regularly. Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted July 9, 2007 Author Share Posted July 9, 2007 I have the same +2" springs on my 110, no sign of any vibes. the only downside in the lift has been the wandering steering at high speed.Mine have been on for 8 months and haven't settled much if at all and I carry a lot of weight around in it regularly. Will Do you find the rear very stiff when it's empty? Does it look as high as mine? I suspect not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Yeah its very high when unladen especially on 255/85x16 tyres. I do have the extra weight of the full rollcage to help out and most of the time its got a fair heap of stuff onboard. Theres absolutely nothing in there at the moment and its 23" from centre of wheel to edge of wheelarch. It is facing downhill though Can someone measure a bog standard 110 and see how that compares? Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted July 9, 2007 Author Share Posted July 9, 2007 Theres absolutely nothing in there at the moment and its 23" from centre of wheel to edge of wheelarch. It is facing downhill though Mine's 23" too. Should have measured mine before I put the springs in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 Presumably your old springs were shagged though Grommit Somebody must have a standard 110 handy or do I have to drop into Matford on my travels today... Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Top90 Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 Somebody must have a standard 110 handy or do I have to drop into Matford on my travels today...Will 55 plate, 20.5 inches from centre of wheel to edge of wheelarch brow. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSG Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 Just been out with the tape for you Will. CSW 110 - 21" centre of wheel to the bottom of the lip on the flared arch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 Thanks chaps I found one in Exeter earlier and it was 20.5" rear and 19" front Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted July 19, 2007 Author Share Posted July 19, 2007 So, I've fitted new trailing arms from Jez (Thanks a lot man, lovely items, once I spent 1/2 an hour getting them out of the wrapping ) BUT, the vibes are still there. I know that putting a ton of concrete in the back fixes the vibes, so the t'box and diff still mustn't be parallel when she's empty. Seeing as it's the lift that is causing this, I guess that the nose of diff is too high (haven't had a proper look as work is a bit mad at the moment) so the new trailing arms need to be extended to move the diff nose back down to its correct position. Can the trailing arms be shimmed where they attach to the chassis? If so, where can I get some? I assume that the vibration will be doing some damage to t'box or diff bearings, but I've needed it for work. Probably done about 300 miles with it like this. Thanks a lot guys 'n' gals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 ahh but you dont want them turning up dinked! the thread length of the arms allows for shimming, I'll punch some out if you need some - any chance you can post some pics up? if ya dont need the arms in the end I'll happily have em back (saves me making some for Mrs Jez!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted July 21, 2007 Author Share Posted July 21, 2007 Some pics. I removed the wheel and lowered the axle back down to where it sits normally The camera is at the same height as the sill and had been leveled with the door tops, cause my driveway isn't level. I then zoomed in and placed an edge against the diff nose, which shows that the diff is nose-high. Jez, is this enough for you to guesstimate the shimmage? I could put the wheel back and and slacken the trailing arms and try and measure how much they need to be shimmed, but I'm not sure how accurately I can check the diff is level. I might try and find somewhere level and then try and level the diff with a spirit level. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 At a guess I think you need to tilt the nose of the diff higher. You could experiment by fitting the 3 bolt chassis bushings to the front of the chassis brackets. this will pull the axle tubes forward thus tilting the nose upwards. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 I'm with Bill on this one, I had a similar vibe on the rear of my discovery and after reading else where on here Bill's suggestion of moving the the three bolt bushings to the front of the bracket I tried it on mine and it has completely cured the vibes. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted July 21, 2007 Author Share Posted July 21, 2007 At a guess I think you need to tilt the nose of the diff higher. I don't understand your logic on this at all. Putting a lift in raises the nose of the diff. If you look at the second picture, which was taken level with the door tops, the ruler indicates that the diff nose is too high. By that logic, the nose needs to be lowered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imspanners Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 Are the prop-shaft u/j's in-line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted July 21, 2007 Author Share Posted July 21, 2007 Are the prop-shaft u/j's in-line? Yup, they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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