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Defender 90 200Tdi - getting it into shape...


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Right a few queries:

1) Is it worth changing the rear axle in order to fit discs instead of drums?

2) Gearbox is on its way out methinks, serious hard work engaging gears, sometimes won't engage at all. I presure fitting a new one is expensive and I'm not that hot a mechanic, so will need to get someone to do it for me. If I do, is it possible/feasible to fit a newer 6 speed gearbox, and is it worth doing?

3) Tractor joint was pooped, replaced it, since then I get an intermittant scraping sound, which has gradually lessened. Is this a bedding in process or was the job done badly.

4) Wading plugs and breathers. I have a safari snorkel. What breathers should I extend, with what should I extend them, and where exactly are the plugs I need to put in? These plugs, can they be left there all the time? I expect this has already been covered somewhere in the forums, but a complete novice guide to it would be nice!

5) Door seals. When it rains I get a very wet right knee and foot. Will replacing the seals actually do much?

Cheers all,

Ed

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1. Yes. The drum brakes are carp once they are full of mud.

2. Change the oil first. Use ATF Dextron 2/3 or MTF94. If it has been filled with EP90 you will find it a nightmare.

3. Not sure I understand the question - grinding noises are generally bad.

4. I will leave this for someone else...

5. You can try replacing the seals and bending the door (literally) or adjusting the latch/hinges to make the door meet the seal. Don't hold your breath though.

Chris

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1. Yes. The drum brakes are carp once they are full of mud.

2. Change the oil first. Use ATF Dextron 2/3 or MTF94. If it has been filled with EP90 you will find it a nightmare.

3. Not sure I understand the question - grinding noises are generally bad.

4. I will leave this for someone else...

5. You can try replacing the seals and bending the door (literally) or adjusting the latch/hinges to make the door meet the seal. Don't hold your breath though.

Chris

ref point 2 where does the lclutch bite if its near the floor then adjust the travel on it to bit later as its not engaging properly therefore you cant select gears easily if at all.

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Right a few queries:

1) Is it worth changing the rear axle in order to fit discs instead of drums?

It depends why you want discs. Is it to fit alloys? Are you current brakes not up to much? Its a relatively easy job if you've got room, space, time and a good range of tools/ jacks. Plus you'll obviously need the replacement axle (late RRC or disco will work)

2) Gearbox is on its way out methinks, serious hard work engaging gears, sometimes won't engage at all. I presure fitting a new one is expensive and I'm not that hot a mechanic, so will need to get someone to do it for me. If I do, is it possible/feasible to fit a newer 6 speed gearbox, and is it worth doing?

It will definately not be a straight forward job fitting a six speed box as the box and 200tdi will not directly mate. If your considering doing an axle swap, the straight replacement of a gearbox is not that much more involved.

3) Tractor joint was pooped, replaced it, since then I get an intermittant scraping sound, which has gradually lessened. Is this a bedding in process or was the job done badly.

Tractor joint?? Do you mean CV, A frame ball joint, prop UJ???

4) Wading plugs and breathers. I have a safari snorkel. What breathers should I extend, with what should I extend them, and where exactly are the plugs I need to put in? These plugs, can they be left there all the time? I expect this has already been covered somewhere in the forums, but a complete novice guide to it would be nice!

All four breathers (front axle, rear axle, gearbox and engine) if you plan on wading. You can buy breather extensions from alot of aftermarket retailers or simply use flexi pipe with push fit connectors. The kits either connect to the existing breathers or put in complete new lines. Extend the breathers as high up as you can (ideally the top of the raised air intake). There are wading plugs for both the bellhousing and the timing cover. Put in before you go off road and take out after clean down. This will allow any fluids/oils to drain out and give you early warnings if you get any ecess oil leaks in these areas.

5) Door seals. When it rains I get a very wet right knee and foot. Will replacing the seals actually do much?

Welcome to the world of Land Rover. Replacing seals may reduce the leakage. No Landy is 100% waterproof though.

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2. Change the oil first. Use ATF Dextron 2/3 or MTF94. If it has been filled with EP90 you will find it a nightmare.

I have not long put EP90 in and the gears are a mare, I did have a leak on the master cylinder so I changed that, but it's still the same, so out with the EP90 then, will it make that much difference???

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Zulublue,

Yes, it does seem thin but it is right for the gearbox, ep90 will not provide the correct level of lubrication for your main gearbox. Ep90 only goes in the transfer box (which is bolted to the back of your gearbox) and the diffs.

Mo

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Cheers Mo,

I do have EP90 in the transfer box and that is fine. I am not sure if there is something more sinister going on around that area to be honest, time will tell, I think my front prop shaft is finished, will that make a difference to the gearbox, I would think not, but worth an ask.

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