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standard rear dampers


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i have only just brought my landy and there were a couple of things that i wanted to do to it before taking it off roading. one of them was replacing the rear dampers. i have done this but i cannot keep the damper still when doing up the nut on the bottom. i know there is a flat point on the bottom of the damper to keep it still using a small spanner but i cannot do the nut up tight enough to get to that. is there a special tool i need to do this? am i being a retard and doing it all worng( as per usual)? or have i assembled it wrong? thanks for the help

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i have only just brought my landy and there were a couple of things that i wanted to do to it before taking it off roading. one of them was replacing the rear dampers. i have done this but i cannot keep the damper still when doing up the nut on the bottom. i know there is a flat point on the bottom of the damper to keep it still using a small spanner but i cannot do the nut up tight enough to get to that. is there a special tool i need to do this? am i being a retard and doing it all worng( as per usual)? or have i assembled it wrong? thanks for the help

Hi Tonka make sure you hav'nt cross threaded it then hold lower half of shock tight (above axle ) with large mole grips or i use either a chain grip or large adjustable pliers :):)

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thanks guys its a bit of a 2 man job and i was trying to do it myself, holding the damper with two hands and doing up the nut with my foot!! i'll carry on with the other jobs untill one of my mates are over and then do it up as tight as needs be. any other useful tips would be sweet.

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Sounds a little odd that you are having so much problem with what is normally a very simple job.

Assuming the shocks are new, the threads clean and it is only the resistance of the nylock that is providing the friction I can't understand the problem, you should be able to hold the shock with your hand until the bottom of the stud appears through the nut enabling you to use a small spanner if necessary.

Are you sure you haven't cross threaded the nut or have somehow fitted the wrong one?

Are the threads damaged?

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Hi,

Hope this isn't preaching to the converted...

With axle stands under the chassis allow the axle to droop to fit the damper, then jack up the axle to get the thread to protrude. You should get plenty of thread through this way. Then use a boa-wrench like this - (but genuine BOA is better) to hold the tube. If you've not seen a Boa wrench before you will be amazed by how well they work and how tough they are.

Roger TwoSheds

(EDITED) Sorry - I can't get the link to work - try eBay and search for boa wrench

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I agree with TwoSheds. I have two sizes of these boa wrenches and they're superb for damper fitment.

Just make sure that the boa strap is clean and grease-free and also the damper where you're putting the boa. Otherwise the two will slip.

When they're clean they grip very well with absolutely no damage.

I use the smaller boa for removing my oil filter too.

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i have dropped it down onto the wheels and still cannot see much of the thread?

Can you post up a picture?

As said above, it should be easy. I didn't have to hold the damper at all. I fitted the nuts, lowered the vehicle to the ground and nipped them up. The damper pressing on the bushes provided enough resistance to stop it turning.

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