dan9090 Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 hi, once again please excuse the lack of knowledge - this is my first landy with no prior mechanical experience but im trying i've been having cooling problems recently which looked due to a radiator blocked up solid with mud. symptons were overheating, buring off water, and no heat from heater. on good advice i took it down to the jet wash to start getting rid of the muck in the radiator. back home i've noticed i am loosing water (drip, drip, drip)... on a little examination i think ive found the source..... (excuse the terrible description).... its a few inches lower and deeper than the centre of the fan at the front of the engine (just beneath where the pipes to the radiator go. it doesnt look to be coming from a pipe joint, just eaking out and dripping down. any ideas folks? ive heard of blocks "cracking" - could it be this? if so how easy/difficult for a novice to fix and how expensive to get someone who knows what theyre doing to fix it? many thanks in advance. dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 I doubt you've cracked the block, more likely to be either water pump, hose, gasket, core plug etc. Clean / dry off the area and see if you can track the source - a mirror often helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 could be the water pump gasket, the pump shaft seal or IIRC the core plug on the front of the engine block behind the timing case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan9090 Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 thanks for suggestions, will try and determine source of water this weekend. have added picture of where it looks like its coming from..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 possibly a cracked pipe at the water pump or the gasket or from the thermostat gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 The nose of the water pump (hidden by the pulley) has a small hole in it where water leaks out if the pump seal fails. Water will run back onto the casing and drip off where it can. Some makes of pump have the hole nearer to the nose, so yours might be out of sight. The best way to see if a pump is leaking from this hole is to lie under the truck and look upwards. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan9090 Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 thanks les, i will look for that this morning. i have the viscous unit off now and water is deffinitely coming from behind the hub... going to try and get the hub off now. by the way, my viscous unit is caked with mud etc - dont know much about these, what does it do (apart from being a big fan) and could it be broken? thanks, dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 You might not get the hub off, get a small mirror & look under the pump nose, you'll see the drain hole fairly clearly, if the leak is from there, the quickest fix is a new water pump & don't forget the gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 by the way, my viscous unit is caked with mud etc - dont know much about these, what does it do (apart from being a big fan) and could it be broken? The fan is filled with a fluid that locks up when it gets hot. When cold, with the engine off, the fan should spin freely by hand. When hot, again with the engine off, the fan should resist turning, as it's now locked to the top pulley. They are expensive yokes to replace. I just fitted an electric fan when mine died. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan9090 Posted November 11, 2007 Author Share Posted November 11, 2007 thanks folks. i got everything off today (including hub which was quite tight!). leak is definitely from the drain hole in the nose of the pump. no obvious cracks in the pump itself so i'm tempted to just replace the gasket and see if that cures it. IS IT likely to be the pump itself ?? presumably the only place to get replacement gasket is Land Rover themselves, right? also, now all this lot is off anything else you would suggest doing at the same time?... new hoses (although mine look fine), heard some people say silicon hoses is the way to go? anything else worth doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 the pimp shaft seals have gone cos you have water coming past them & the shaft bearings will more likely be in a poor state, thier not meant to have water in them, better to replace the pump gasket with new parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 If water is coming out of the hole then the pump has had it. You will need to replace the whole pump - a gasket comes with it. Ralph - pimp shaft Easy Tiger Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 If water is coming out of the hole then the pump has had it. You will need to replace the whole pump - a gasket comes with it.Ralph - Easy Tiger Les. trust you to spot it, didn't read it through properly it should have said PUMP shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Same thing - different spelling (you ain't going to win this you know) Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan9090 Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 thanks. a new pump it is then, new one from paddocks is about £35. when replacing do i need to glue/seal the new gasket on or just place it in and then bolt the pump on? dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 dont bother with sealant, just take your time and get all the old gasket off the engine leaving a nice clean flat surface. if possible use something that won't scratch the surface - if you absolutely have to use a chisel or something then go real easy with it and at a shallow angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 when replacing do i need to glue/seal the new gasket on or just place it in and then bolt the pump on? I use a stanley blade to carefully cut away the old gasket. Be careful when torquing up the pump bolts. The ones on the right are prone to stripping. If you don't know the correct torque, I can look it up for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 If you don't know the correct torque, I can look it up for you. 25 Nm or 18 lbft - not a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan9090 Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 thanks all. i've used a very mild wire wool which has cleaned up the surface quite nicely. stupid question time... how do i measure the torque im applying to the bolts? presumably i need a new bit of kit - any idea of price / supplier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 stupid question time... how do i measure the torque im applying to the bolts? presumably i need a new bit of kit - any idea of price / supplier? Using a torque wrench. Expensive ones are very expensive. You can get cheapy ones from machine mart and others, or your local tool shop. Or, you can just do it by feel. 25Nm is lightish pressure on the end of a half inch ratchet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 use a torque wrench. 18 lb/ft is not alot. personally i always use just a smear of rtv on w/pump gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan9090 Posted November 14, 2007 Author Share Posted November 14, 2007 thanks. just bought a draper torque wrench, £30. had a choice of one which did 10 - 80 nM and another which did 30 - 150 nM. having looked at the torque setting tables it looked as if i'll get more use out of the lower range so went for that one. hopefully new water pump will arrive from paddocks tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 had a choice of one which did 10 - 80 nM and another which did 30 - 150 nM. LR nut and bolts are usually a low torque that you have to be careful not to exceed, or they are done up VFT with a 6ft breaker bar, so a wise choice of torque wrench. Good luck with the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan9090 Posted November 17, 2007 Author Share Posted November 17, 2007 Today the everything went back on... including new pump and gasket. Thanks for all the advice. Ran on tickover for 30 mins no problem, temp staying where it should. Some water vapour out of the top of the radiator so put a bottle of RadWeld type stuff in. Ran again for 30 mins on tickover and the water vapour stopped, temp still where it should be Great. Went to drive off. 1st gear, moved forward about 5 feet then... 1) engine raced as of throttle was stuck open 2) a catching noise started (just as of the fan was catching the cowl but it definitely wasn't) 3) a LOT of white smoke from engine bay (seemed to be mainly from the passenger side) 4) engine cut out. Inspected engine bay and nothing looked amiss. 5 minutes later she fired up just fine. any suggestions what the above might have been???... and is it anything to worry about??? >> i might need a new thread for the next bit........ Ok, so then drove for about 5 miles until a vibration started from low down at the front. Quite loud, can be heard about engine, sounds like something catching or vibrating. Not there when you put the clutch in. Vibration gets faster when you put more throttle on. Stopped in layby and a very nice gentleman in a 110 stopped behind and helped me take a look. He said prop looked fine, bit of play in the front diff but couldnt see anything too exciting underneath. Said he could hear a bit of a vibration at back of engine but didnt know what it might be, suggested some kind of plate but couldnt see anything. Anyway, i got home but i dont like the sound of this vibration noise. Odd thing is, it certainly wasn't there when i parked it up 3 weeks ago, since then all i've done is put a new water pump on. By the way, temperature fine throughout and no loss of power. Wondering where do I look first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.