300 tdi Handbrake removal

[Peter]

Why is nothing ever easy.

Can someone tell me if there is another way to remove the hand brake drum from a 300tdi, than to attack the single cross head reatining screw with an 'Impact driver'. Have tried this method, and appear to be burring the head of the screw. Does anyone know if its possible to drill it out or do I need to get access to an air gun ? Or any tips - welcome.

Thanks.

[white90]

hammer and chisel

if this fails drill the head off once removed you'll have better access to deal with what is left of the screw

IIRC there is another hole for another screw opposite.

better still remove te whole assembly and fit a Disk handbrake as seen

HERE

[Peter]

hammer and chisel

if this fails drill the head off once removed you'll have better access to deal with what is left of the screw

IIRC there is another hole for another screw opposite.

better still remove te whole assembly and fit a Disk handbrake as seen

HERE

Blimey, thought I was the only one who trawls forums at 1am.

Yep am trying to remove the whole thing to fit the Disk handbrake got from Simon at X-eng, via ebay yesterday (another bargain ).

But fell at the first hurdle - and am really trying to avoid having to face defeat as want to have it sorted for laning on saturday down on kent marshes.

BTW there is not another hole for another screw opposite, its just the one on this drum - what does IIRC mean.

Will try the hammer and chisel method tomorrow evening.

Thanks

Peter

[white90]

Blimey, thought I was the only one who trawls forums at 1am.

Yep am trying to remove the whole thing to fit the Disk handbrake got from Simon at X-eng, via ebay yesterday (another bargain ).

But fell at the first hurdle - and am really trying to avoid having to face defeat as want to have it sorted for laning on saturday down on kent marshes.

BTW there is not another hole for another screw opposite, its just the one on this drum - what does IIRC mean.

Will try the hammer and chisel method tomorrow evening.

Thanks

Peter

Peter the hole I mentioned is under the drum, on the output flange I meant if you knacker this one there is another to use to re fit the drum itself.

but as your removing it hammer/chisel/drill it (IIRC= if I remember correctly)

[LR90]

Take the prop off, put a couple of nylocks back on and drive it.

[headhunter]

Blimey, thought I was the only one who trawls forums at 1am.

Yep am trying to remove the whole thing to fit the Disk handbrake got from Simon at X-eng, via ebay yesterday (another bargain ).

But fell at the first hurdle - and am really trying to avoid having to face defeat as want to have it sorted for laning on saturday down on kent marshes.

BTW there is not another hole for another screw opposite, its just the one on this drum - what does IIRC mean.

Will try the hammer and chisel method tomorrow evening.

Thanks

Peter

So it was you I bid up to this price

Simon at X-eng, if you read this how about selling me a Disk Handbrake for the same money please?

John

[simonr]

Simon at X-eng, if you read this how about selling me a Disk Handbrake for the same money please?

Mmmm.....let me think......err...No!

At that price, I just break even on them - Good for publicity, not for my wallet!

I'll happily give you a bit of a discount on one, being a forum member though.

Alternatively, I'll stick another one on this Sunday to finish next week if you fancy a punt!

Si

[simonr]

Why is nothing ever easy.

Can someone tell me if there is another way to remove the hand brake drum from a 300tdi, than to attack the single cross head reatining screw with an 'Impact driver'. Have tried this method, and appear to be burring the head of the screw. Does anyone know if its possible to drill it out or do I need to get access to an air gun ? Or any tips - welcome.

Thanks.

Peter,

If you get really stuck - you are welcome to come over and I'll give you a hand. I have some expertese in bludgoning the life out of stuck things!

Personally, I would just drill out the middle of the screw and remove the stub with a pair of mole grips. The retaining screws are not needed on the disk as the caliper will stop the disk falling off if you drive it without a prop-shaft (although I would reccomend putting on a couple of the nuts to make it run true).

Si

[simonr]

Sorry about the number of posts!

I now have a set of 6 prototype disk kits up for grabs.

They are intended for vehicles with over/under drive gearboxes and for 4 door Discoveries. They should more easily fit 2 door discos and 4 or 2 door RR's as well as they have a good deal more adjustment in the cable mounting bracket.

Still have to get them folded and plated - but will sell them to the first 6 who respond at cost. From them I need feedback & photos on how easy it is to fit and if there are any remaining problems / suggestions.

Not absolutly sure how much 'at cost' will be as the cutting is more complex and they require an extra fold and three extra bolts compared to the originals. I would guess at about £160 though.

JST & Matt, yours are already reserved (and there are 6 remaining after that).

Si

[D9OSV]

Hello Simon

Are any of these new kits for series vehicles?????

Am getting alot of intrest from foreign clims about that.

Speak soon

Jim

[Les Brock]

Simon,

Am I going to need a special to fit around my rotated PTO ???...or have I already asked this..

lever for the PTO lever now angles/sits above drum

Prob best if you have a look at the weekend

[Peter]

Simon

or should I say Saint Simon - (ref p61 TOR.!!) Can feel a pope-on-a-rope joke coming.

Thanks for the offer, will see how it goes with my drill bit snapping skills later.

LR90

Not sure how removing the rear prop then replacing the nylock nuts would work.

Anyway, Popped down to Gigglepin 4x4 shop early this morning (which is usually opening up by 8am) to get the 200tdi handbrake cable, and a copy of TOR - Jim as ever was very helpfull and has been mentioned at least twice in TOR including one with fellow club member Bren's article on the latest in-vehicle desktop computer.

Headhunter - bid you up next week ;-)

[LR90]

LR90

Not sure how removing the rear prop then replacing the nylock nuts would work.

Believe me it works First time I lost the drum (never did find it!!) so the second time I put the nuts back on after removing prop. Drum rattling within minutes.

[simonr]

Simon,

Am I going to need a special to fit around my rotated PTO ???...or have I already asked this..

Yes! I'll bring one of the new back plates as well & we can have a better look.

The new version is rotated 30 degrees clockwise (on your photo) so it should clear the PTO assembly.

The protector skid is now a bolt-on (in red) and the cable bracket (purple) can be mounted in two different locations. There is also a 100 degree anticlockwise mounting position for Disco/RR (which then uses the right hand cable mounting)

Jim - Series version is still in development! Several tricky issues to overcome.

Si

[JST]

Si, cheers for the reservation, see you at 7S

[white90]

Si

dependant on what cost ends up I'd be intrested.

if too much££ I'll wait till the new year when more funds will be available.

then again Val would like one for xmas I'm sure

[sgnas]

Believe me it works First time I lost the drum (never did find it!!) so the second time I put the nuts back on after removing prop. Drum rattling within minutes.

I can vouch for this too.

I found mine. It was the black thing in the very frosty (and white) field, at least 30yards from the road!

[Peter]

X-Brake installation

All done, took 3 long evenings, and numerous trips over and under the vehicle.

The stubborn screw was drilled out to about 4mm then used another handy tool called X-out (http://www.aldn.com/xout/) obtained from the ever useful 'Turtles' hardware shop in Croydon.

Evening 1 - remove 300tdi brake drum and cable - 'Land Rover mechanics everywhere you have my respect', it was not easy. Probably helps not having damaged wire pliers though, and using the right tools. Changed my mind I don't want to be a LR mechanics for a living - too much like hard work.

Evening 2 - assess how to fit it all together, and work out how to connect a 200tdi brake cable in place of the 300tdi, with more or less the same fittings (a half height wheel nut - from a previous venture, finally came in handy). Goto pub & watch the T.V.

Evening 3 - put it all together. Short term memory loss is getting worse (mental note drink less erm, beer). Couldn't remember which way round rear propshaft goes, so decided to put it so that the compression shaft section is nearest the rear axle, as the main shaft nipple, is here. And the grease splatters dictated that probably best to avoid splattering the new disk brake with excess grease, as it used to on the drum brake. Hope this won't affect the vehicle, in use.

Finally Test drive 4 foot forward, 2 foot back, apply handbrake - cool it works - vehicle doesn't move. .

Top tip - take out the centre seat cover, as makes it sooo much easier to get at things.

Think I will get the handbrake cable adjustment / fitment double checked sometime by a mechanic, as not 100% sure its safe. Will test it when out laning on Saturday though.

Was fullly aware that the final instruction page talked about different 200tdi cable lengths, and after all the fitting time I really did not want to have to strip it all down again, which you won't find out until you've fitted it all together in the first place. Fortunately Gigglepins cable was just the right length.

Apart from the new cable, and handy extractor tool (optional), another clevis pin+split pin is needed - or a small bolt with two washers and two nuts to lock it on with are required. For the other end of the handbrake cable - not applicable if running anything older than a 300tdi, I expect.

Thanks for the advice.

Peter

Kent LRC.

[white90]

Peter

you've fitted the rear prop on the wrong way round

the compression(sliding)joint goes at the transfer box end....

[Peter]

Peter

you've fitted the rear prop on the wrong way round

the compression(sliding)joint goes at the transfer box end....

Cheers, will swap it back.

[Peter]

Disk handbrake

Bedding in Noise

How long should it take to bed in ?

Mine is making a hell of a racket when driving above 30mph. Fitted it this last week. And drove about 80 miles on motorway today, and 60 miles of country roads and byways.

Assuming someone else reads this who has installed it on their vehicle, what noise did you experience ?

Thanks.

Edited November 19, 2005 by Peter

[JST]

i am sure Si will add comments when hes back from 7S

but in my experience

the disc will make some noise as the pads are only just clear of the disc therefore any build up or rust etc will reduce that clearence and give increased noise until it has warn down. Also the location of the disc under the seat box is closer to you and prob enhanced by the ali boxes surronding it so it makes the nosie more pronounced.

Mine made a fair bit of rubbing noise for the first 100miles or so, you could hear it in the background. now that noise has reduced although is still there (300miles done?) but its nothing the worry about.

If for example you wash your car then drive it off after letting it sit in the sun you will hear the pads and discs on the std brakes rubbing, this goes quickly as you brake the vehicles. with the handbrake it normaly only comes on with the vehicle stationary therefore the build up of surface rust doesnt reduce as qucikly.

just make sure that the cable isin't over tensioned and the pads are gripping the disc whilst driving that would obviosulsy give you reduced mpg, hot disc, resistance to motion and noise.

[Peter]

JST

Cheers, have sent Simon an email.

Took a careful look at it today, and appears the pad nearest the spring is bouncing

around when the handbrake is off. Not sure if was attached before, as cardboard packing was removed, before installing.

Have reset the handbrake cable so it is now two notches from being on.

Disk does get hot, mpg is pretty bad on vehicle anyway, can only test if binding, by driving to 30mph on a level stretch, then knocking gearbox into neutral (automatic) and seeing how long it takes to slow down.

Peter

[JST]

the disc shouldn't get that hot, it should be cooler than your driving wheel dics for example. i can touch mine after a journey no probs.

alt try driving with it clicked on a notch and get it to wear quicker (short distance!) then when off you will have the clearence!