neilwilson Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I need a new release bearing and though I would have a go at changing the clutch at the same time. Looking at Mr Hensons' instructions Discovery clutch change I think I need the following list. Does this look right ? Selection of metric spanners/sockets Various screwdrivers Pop rivets + gun Axle stands Trolley jacks Borg & Beck clutch (plate, cover & release bearing) - is there only one for the 300TDi or do they make different clutch models ? Clutch fork (reinforced one ? from where ?) Clutch alignment tool (LRT-12-040) Would I need any threadlock or grease anywhere ? Thanks. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Just a phillips screwdriver. Clutch cover is the same for 2.5 N/A & TD, 200 & 300TDi. Two plastic clips for either end of the clutch fork - one is a square U-shape and holds the big end of the fork to the thrust bearing (well, it's supposed to). The other holds the clutch slave rod to the narrow end of the fork (use a cable tie as well though). If you tow/use it off road, then a 130 plate is stronger, but otherwise the plates are same for the same range of vehicles as the cover. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 You can change a clutch with just a Phillips screwdrive? Damn you must be good.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 I was showing off actually Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougstar Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Hi Neil, i have used the post by Les and can highly recomend it and it really pulled me out the plop as i was unaware that it could be done this way (anyway thanks again les) however i followed it and came across no major problems and the job was a great success due to the post. However i did come across a minor glitch and that wa when trying to support the hand brake drum with the trolley jack, it proved to be a little tricky at times:o anyhoo i decided to knock this up out of some old wood pretty handy...... (hope that worked not posted a image before!) good luck with the job. Regards Dougstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougstar Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 yeah it did work second time round Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilwilson Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 Thanks all. That idea of a wooden support is a good one, I think I will use that. Time to start ordering some bits. Cheers. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munkymush Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 i like to give the input splines a coat of copper grease +the fork ball+clip ,spigot too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRX Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 spigot bush, for the few quid to get one its worth replacing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilwilson Posted April 10, 2008 Author Share Posted April 10, 2008 In the description of changing the clutch http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6719 Les mentions "The front of the engine needs to be kept in place in anticipation of gearbox removal - if you don't do this, the engine will level-out once the weight of the gearbox is off it." Does this mean I need to jack up or support the front of the engine ? Or just to be aware that the engine will shift a bit once the box is off it ? Thanks. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 10, 2008 Share Posted April 10, 2008 The engine will level out when the transmission is removed. A length of wood on a jack under the crank pulley will keep it at the same angle. If the engine does level out - you won't be able to slide the gearbox back on as the transmission tunnel will be in the way. The input shaft will catch on the clutch cover fingers about an inch below the centre. You could force it up and in with a jack - the input shaft will twang over the fingers and then go in as it should. The top edge of the bellhousing will most likely scrape or damage the tunnel as well. If you have the fan shroud still fitted, don't forget to remove the top section of it as the fan blades will protrude through the gap with the engine tilted. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilwilson Posted April 11, 2008 Author Share Posted April 11, 2008 Thanks. All done now, spent the last few days getting new tyres fitted, putting on new springs and gas shocks and changing the clutch. Knackered I am. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Having just completed the second of these clutch replacements I offer the following hints: Jacking the engine under the crank pulley is vital. Placing the trolley jack used to support the rear of the transmission on a piece of ply or similar allows it to roll backwards and forwards nicely. I left the handbrake lever disconnected from the cable and simply wound in the adjuster to lock the transmission brake drum to prevent it turning. I used a ratchet strap to secure the transmission brake drum to the trolley jack lifting platform. Before separating the transmission from the engine I screwed in two 8inch lengths of threaded stud into two of the lower bell-housing bolt holes. This ensures that the transmission does not tilt sideways, as it is apt to do, when disconnected from the engine. This also allows the transmission to be easily wound back into engagement with the engine using a couple of the 15mm nuts. A ratchet strap can be used to both pull the transmission unit backwards and then forwards to re-engage with the engine. In the absence of some hefty rugby playing mates to assist with heaving the transmission in and out these hints may help if working alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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