SteveRK Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 As any surgeon will admit - the first incision is always the hardest. Imagine then my trepidation in attempting the rear floor removal in order to rectify rust problems! by far the most comprehensive rust remedy work i have yet attempted. On the very good advice of Geoff Beaumont i purchased a couple of spot weld removal drills. These drills are invaluable due to the massive number of welds needing to be drilled. I deliberately didn't drill right through both panels initially just in case the welding was not that thorough but found 90% required to be holed in the end. I drilled out clean metal welds first as rust tends to blunt a drill very quickly. I still needed to re-sharpen the first drill 2/3 of the way round wanting to keep the second drill in reserve if needed. Allow a good 2 hours just to drill the welds. Once drilled a lot of teasing and chipping with a cold chisel was required to seperate the rotten side sections from the floor section. I also wanted to remove the floor as intact as possible just in case i needed it for a template etc. as i still need to decide what and how i will replace it with. The rearmost crossmember is shot through so this will be next for removal. The two intermediate cross supports appear at first inspection to be intact but I will reserve judgment untill cleaned up. One casualty was a punctured fuel line that runs close under one of the welds. This will be replaced. I also will need to replace both flexible brake hoses that connect to the rear axle as the bodywork end fittings look a bit suspect. So far so good - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 17, 2008 Share Posted February 17, 2008 One hell of a tedious job - drilling all those spot welds out. First floor I ever replaced I counted the welds - 140 if I remember right. I went go over them with a wire brush in an angle grinder to remove the rust, this helps to stop the bits from getting blunted so quickly. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 You shouldn't need to drill through both sheets of steel as long as you centre the drill on the weld (I found it helps to mark the centre with a punch to stop the bit wandering). You may need to slide a lever under the floor and 'pop' the weld if there are any bits still attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunc Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 The rearmost crossmember is shot through so this will be next for removal. The two intermediate cross supports appear at first inspection to be intact but I will reserve judgment untill cleaned up. One casualty was a punctured fuel line that runs close under one of the welds. This will be replaced. I also will need to replace both flexible brake hoses that connect to the rear axle as the bodywork end fittings look a bit suspect. Top banana. I daredn't take my carpets out because of the floor, ignorance is bliss! Looking forward to your progress, might give me the confidence to do mine rather than take the wimps way out; buy a diesel Disco and build a hybrid out of the Rangey! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted February 20, 2008 Author Share Posted February 20, 2008 A Disco!!!!! Leave the room immediately Yes i intend to log the work - will take several weeks as spare time is limited - That way i can share the trauma! I am currently considering laying suitable steel sheet with apprpriate under supports to overlap the instep around the 'hole' as its a bit scabby. I'm not looking for a short cut bodge as i dont do 'half-sole & heal' repairs but i also am realistic that the vehicle will never become concours condition. Next stage will be a clean up before moving onto rear crossmember removal as once that is removed the vehicle may need some supporting at the rear and not be moveable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunc Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 A Disco!!!!! Leave the room immediately Sorry Steve Went to look at 2 Discos today... They needed so much welding, my mate Ben pointed out i may as well pull my finger out and do my Rangey! Looking forward to seeing how you get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfredenewman Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 what year rrc are we talking about my 88 rear floor is ally and rivetted unless im going mad i think mmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 Thats the spirit - tooooo easy to buy a Disco - ten a penny they are! Of course, should i throw the towel in with mine it will be for medical reasons etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 Your lucky there Alf' as the later models were fitted with steel floors spot welded into position. ~Not sure what the change over year was. Alloy floors are almost compatible with later models but I have heard they are not quite as long at the rear, or dont fit quite right at the rear. I may consider an alloy floor for mine once i get to decision time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Your lucky there Alf' as the later models were fitted with steel floors spot welded into position. ~Not sure what the change over year was. Alloy floors are almost compatible with later models but I have heard they are not quite as long at the rear, or dont fit quite right at the rear.I may consider an alloy floor for mine once i get to decision time. I have an alloy floor looking for a good home. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 An ally floor fitted my 95 softdash rangie perfectly. I dont know who has told you otherwise, but i can confirm that they fit perfectly! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 The alu floor from the late trucks doesn't fit the very early ones as it's about 3/4 of a foot shorter. I have taken 3 out at this stage. Thought I had a decent replacement in a late one for my '73 but then I offered it up and it left a considerable gap. From the 3 I've taken I've seen the same problem in various stages. I.E the steel cross member supports cause the alu to oxidise deeply directly over them. I've used a wire brush and mop head on my cross members, oxide primed them and will spray them and then waxoyl the carp out of them before refitting the floor... In fact considering your salted roads and the inaccessability of the chassis tops otherwise I'd take the opportunity of waxoyling them while it's out, even if you don't wanna wax the rest of the undercarriage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted February 26, 2008 Author Share Posted February 26, 2008 Interesting - it sounds like the later alloy floors will fit the later steel floor models then? Yes - regarding the chassis tops and cross supports i will be making sure they are suitably cleaned up and protected as they act as perfect ledges for any carp to sit on and unless you get right under with a hose to clean out will start the rot all over again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Yeah, the ally floor fits perfectly into a steel floored Rangie - I am sure you have seen this, but here's what we did on my brothers rangie: Floor and cross member replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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