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Proximity switches


chrism

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Hi guys

Im after a couple of proximity switches so i can tell when my rear steer is in the centre. Anybody know of any suppliers in shropshire/cheshire? Also anybody got any set up pics that they have done? I am planning on fixing something like a handbrake cable onto the axle and hub, then run it to a small metal box in a safer place, then use the cable to slide a bar with 2 lugs on it back and forth. Then set the sensors up so they pick the lugs up.

The proximity sensors i have seen have a face about the size of a 10p so would they open up and put my light on as soon as they come into contact or would the whole face of the sensor have to be covered before it switches my light on?

Cheers

Chris

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why dont you use a sender and guage, that way you can see where the wheels are pointing at all times not just when centered, still use the cable idea to keep the sender out of the mud though ,

boats use the same idea and its called a 'rudder reference' guage if its any help

just a thought :unsure:

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A bit of a suggestion, if you take a windscreen wiper cable and attach it then set that to twiddle a simple pot you have a varying voltage dependant on rear steer position.

You could then run a series of LEDs off it which would give you an indication of not just when in the centre, but also how far you have it turned. I haven't been fiddling with electronics lately but I don't think it would be a very complex circuit to light bars up, your full scale could easily have 20 LEDs (assuming 0.6v drop per LED) and would provide a vaguely nice analogue display.

Might have to fiddle for the right gear size to make the pot go full swing with the steer of the axle.

Good side is all the parts are pretty cheap and easy to make and replace. You can go to electric pretty quickly and the cable should be pretty resilient to

allowing any muck back into a box with the pot in.

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Bloody hell, those sensors are expensive!!!

I'd go with a pot, if you want analogue data, a hall effect sensor on the axle sounds groovy.

Or, you could use photodetectors/IRLEDS and a bar with a hole in it, total cost of the sensors about a quid.

There's a thread on pirate where they guy just used microswitches.

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This how I did mine.

The upper tube travels in sync with the ram and the prox sensors at either side detect where it is.

If you are using an electronic valve body you can then add a re-centering circuit so when you push the joystick forward the rear wheels automatically re-centre

post-69-1209229520_thumb.jpg

post-69-1209229534_thumb.jpg

post-69-1209229544_thumb.jpg

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i would personally use those sensors mentiond but they need to be placed about 0.5mm away from what they pick up on to be acurate. but they are easily damaged which make them stop working completly. there are a choice of npn or pnp sensors avalible. if there wired up wrong u will also damage them.

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You could then run a series of LEDs off it which would give you an indication of not just when in the centre, but also how far you have it turned. I haven't been fiddling with electronics lately but I don't think it would be a very complex circuit to light bars up, your full scale could easily have 20 LEDs (assuming 0.6v drop per LED) and would provide a vaguely nice analogue display.

This circuit will do exactly that - you can chain 3914's indefinitely if you want to give 20, 100, 1000 LED's if you really want.

A Range Rover air suspension potemtiometer would work, it's just a pot with an arm on. A bit easier to seal than a rack & pinion style too.

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Im liking the led idea, but im not good with things like that! Does anybody make and sell kits for that type of thing?

I wont be using it as a self centring circuit, as i have a loadall style set up with a manual change over valve to go between 2, 4 and crab. I just want to keep it as simple as possible, so if the wheels do end up out of line im in control and can line it up myself rather than having to fiddle with leccy things etc

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From the looks of it, a few beer tokens to FF would see you right :) Love the comments, :)

You went digital while I still tend to think about analogue, but if you get such fine resolution with FF circuit then that is definitely the way to go, less susceptible to voltage loss issue probably. If you throw a PIC at it you could make it auto calibratiing too :)

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Chris - I should be able to sort out some telemechanic prox sensors that we use in work. Will have to check if they will work on 12v cos we use them on 24v. I can let you know properly tomorrow.

They require about 1-2mm sense distance, but are plastic bodied so are fragile.

Euchner do some metal bodied ones with a bigger sense distance (up to 5mm) but I can't "source" any of those at the moment.

These sensors have 3 wires - +v, -v & switch and so are dead simple to wire.

Will give you a ring tomorrow. Cheers - Nick

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Hey up nick, hows things! never seen your face on here before! Switches sound good, they dont need to be too robust as im not mounting them on the axle, going to put them in a box up near the tray back somewhere i think, as long as they can stand a bit of water/carp then im sure they will be fine.

Chris

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