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got a bit of a situation, having put the new tracks in last night and the bearing and hub seal i went out this morning to put the hub on and it wont go on enough to put all the nuts/spacers etc on by about 10mm i think any ideas?

If brute force isn't working, you're not using enough. ;)

It sometimes take quite a bit of pushing to get the bearings and seals to seat properly on the stub. Wiggling/turning as you push also helps.

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Did you fit everything in the correct order?

There shouldn't be need of particular force, and I wouldn't use it, in any case, as there is risk of damaging the oil seal.

Here is a "tutorial" picture of the correct fitting order (hub missing, obviously):

post-8482-1213272796_thumb.jpg

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Did you fit everything in the correct order?

There shouldn't be need of particular force, and I wouldn't use it, in any case, as there is risk of damaging the oil seal.

I must agree, I was only kidding about the brute force, one must always take care not to damage the seals.

Although the weight of the hub means that some force needs to be applied, in my experience. I found wiggling to be the best solution, after a few tries it usually slides over easily.

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ok i feel like a bit of a idiot but it appears that part of the old bearing stayed on the stub axle and i didnt notice it wasnt part of the stub now i have to try and work out how to get it off and it seems quite firmly in place any ideas? thanks for the picture it made me notice somthing was wrong

cheers

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No force needed but it does sound a bit like the problem I have had with my disc brake conversion, not enough space to fit all bits (nuts and washer/outer seal). But it should not be like that as this is just a wheel bearing replacement.

Are you 100% sure the new bearings are completely pressed/tapped into the hub?

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thanks for the reply marco ive realised its becasue part of the old bearing is seized on the stub now i need to try and get it off

I had that problem once, I used a Dremel tool to make a cut in the inner bearing race to release pressure so it would slide off.

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Hi Fender

I doubt that you will be able to get the old bit off. Even if you do, then there is a good chance that the stub axle is damaged underneath - my last one was. What happens is that the bearing inner race spins on the stub axle which generates lots of heat and it begins to weld itself up. You should probably budget for a new stub axle. Be aware that there is a bearing, bush and oil seal in the inside of the stub axle depending on the age of the vehicle and if it is front or rear.

Chris

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Hi Fender

I doubt that you will be able to get the old bit off. Even if you do, then there is a good chance that the stub axle is damaged underneath - my last one was. What happens is that the bearing inner race spins on the stub axle which generates lots of heat and it begins to weld itself up. You should probably budget for a new stub axle. Be aware that there is a bearing, bush and oil seal in the inside of the stub axle depending on the age of the vehicle and if it is front or rear.

Chris

Hi Chris, a bit like this 'welding job' .... it happened to me in Botswana back in 1995

steekascbvR.jpg

Cheers

Marco

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from previous posts, a couple of solutions for removing bearing race from stub is:

1- grind a diagonal line accross race, whack with cold chisel and LR tool #1

2- run a weld around the race, as it contracts it can shrink the race enabling its removal.

you have nothing to lose by trying either method, paddocks do a stub for very reasonable money if neither works.

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hi,

i managed to cut the old one off, so i do i know if the stub is useable or not?

thanks

I suggest you fit a new stub axle anyway as they are relatively cheap. It's a bit penny wise not to do that IMO.

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ok will do, how do you get the stub off it appears to be seized solid is there a special technique?

If you've removed all bolts the only bit holding it is a gasket and some rust. I normally use a hammer to carefully tap if off the axle/swivel housing.

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