Jump to content

300tdi tuning.


simon red90

Recommended Posts

after much thought and deliberation, i have decided to strap an autobox to the back of a 300tdi and put the pair into my truck. thing is, i reckon it will be seriously under-powered. need to up it a lot. who has done what and what worked well, thinking down the line of strapping a turbo of something else on it etc. what can be done to that poxy fuel pump to allow real power. the usual diaprham and smoke screw etc will be done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get an EGT Gauge then you'll save on melting something.

Largest intercooler you can fit in the space,

the trouble is you'll be getting into TD5 money where power is cheaper.

TGV turbo from the 2.8 fits on.

my one that died was bored out +20thou and now goes like a dream, larger i/c and added fuel running 18psi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

after much thought and deliberation, i have decided to strap an autobox to the back of a 300tdi and put the pair into my truck. thing is, i reckon it will be seriously under-powered. need to up it a lot. who has done what and what worked well, thinking down the line of strapping a turbo of something else on it etc. what can be done to that poxy fuel pump to allow real power. the usual diaprham and smoke screw etc will be done.
Porny is a good one to talk to, he runs a tuning shop i think, he told me that theres a lot of room for performance with upping the fuel, intercooler and wind the boost up ( sensibly) he did say the standard actuater rod was to short or something and they fitted another one to pull more boost out, I guess this is cost effective, although the intercooler might sting you a bit.

tris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a VNT Turbo from a 2.8 VGT ordered.

Comes as a kit for the 3ootdi including manifold to bolt straight on.

Also ordered the full size intercooler,along with pump tweaks should see about 155 hp.

Talk to Andy at Allisport.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The trouble with an intercooler is they give brilliant results at road speeds but at low speed on a challenge event they don't get enough air flow and spend most their time blocked with mud. So the advantage is small making them quite pricey for not a huge gain. Also if you have your winch tucked right back tight to the rad (which I know Simon has) you have to move it to fit the cooler in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brunel intercooler, fuelling tweaks and a ported Turner head on my 300Tdi.

One less exhaust box and a non-standard air filter. And an electric fan. The last three just improve the throttle response.

Very seriously considering propane injection.

I came across a thread to move the wastegate sensing pipe on Difflock yesterday and followed it through to the following:

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=24024

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have fitted an EGT gauge and Boost gauge, and then tweeked the boost and fuelling whilst keeping the EGT safe. Standard intercooler as I can't afford a bigger/better one yet, I also moved the boost sense line for the waste gate to the inlet manifold so that it sees the boost pressure after any losses through the intercooler etc, and as mine is a Discovery Auto on 31" tyres,I fitted a 1.4:1 transfer box. I also changed the downpipe to a non cat Defender one

I have to say it seems to have plenty of go although it does run out of steam a 80 ish but I don't go there very often so don't care. Mine was originally an EDC (122 BHP) engine and I changeed it over to a mechanical pump ( Nominally 111 BHP) and I feel that it now goes better for the sort of driving I do, than it did.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes but only on XUD engines and Massey Fergusen lumps. It's fun but potentially destructive. Under perfect conditions NoS reckoned you get a 500% power increase but reality means that the engine goes bang at about 150% unless you do silly mods. Fitting a single or double boost nozzle (say 12% or 25% petrol types with a two stage switch) on to the intake manifold (post turbo is always good!) is nice. You don't get head heat issues as the N2 super cools whislt the O improves the burn. Just chuck shed loads of fuel in until you can't see out the back then ease it off a bit. A huge bore exhaust with little in the way of baffles does aid getting the hot fumes out as does exhaust wrap.

We hill climbed and sprinted a 205 DT for a while - however we did have a fair few spare engines :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not selling up now then mate?

There is talk of a direct fit VVT being available soon.

Propane? Good bang for the buck im told!

nope, not selling, managed to keep a hold for a while at least.

figured i ought fix it really.

wont be fitting a bigger intercooler due to boost lag time, and wrong conditions for use, may fit an uprated flow standard size one. no silencers, shortened wastegate atuator rod, 1.5bar boost, and as much fuel as i dare push through it. still, i'll only get maybe 10 - 15% over the standard power figure. dont really want propane due to space and cant be bothered building special canisters right now either. really like allards VNT bolt on kit but its a bit pricey!

we'll see...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Charge cooler? should at least work better off road.

Will.

Be as easy to run a constant cooled air to air and the biggest damn cooler around, then fuel to requirements. It's easy to up the calorific' by either 50/50 Bio or an over dose of Millers - both worth a few extra ponies form low down. A bit of twiddling with the exhaust is worth a few extra ponies - I mean flowing and additional scavenge through design - not just losing a silencer or two. Snorkels strangle a good engine so you could address design and flow; the 'Jez Built' clean the inside with small children concept works well.

Propane takes up as much room as you want it to - especially if you use it 'on the button'.

Diesels are a doddle to tune, but ther are two ways to do it:

1). Huge power gains from bolt on or fuel improvers, then you need to monitor all the time. We managed to squeeze over 1000hp from a 130hp engine this way (note HP not BHP)

2). Small power increments from tweaks. Much more fun

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yep, big bore exhaust improves spool up significantly, and i found that even with stock fuelling (can't remember the tyre diamter, too long ago) the useable rev range in third extended from 80km/h maximum speed (it just stopped revving) to 100km/h before the engine wouldn't rev any further. (130 exhaust)

The 3"exhaust also dropped EGT's significantly, by well over 25*C on my tests hills with stock fuelling.

Also lagged the dump pipe when doing the clutch twelve months ago with Thermotec header wrap down to the t/case after one of the Oz tuning shops had been dyno testing Nissan 3"pipes and found they picked up a 4-6HP by just HPC coating 3'-4'of the dump pipe. They were doing it to reduce heat soak into the cabin.

All we can surmise is that it keeps up the exhaust gas velocity post turbo and helps reduce back pressure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I noticed a huge difference with the exhaust. First I had full length with silencer and it was pretty much as standard. Then I had a side exit, which would have been approx 2/3 the original length, slightly larger bore with silencer and there was little difference. I then removed the silencer which made a small difference and the engine felt to have a small amount of extra power. The biggest difference came when I built the exhaust back to Full length without silencers. It revs quicker and more freely and throttle response has been improved making it much more controllable. Not sure why but I can only assume it has something to do with scavenging better.

Dont underestimate the difference a good air supply will make. I changed to a slightly smaller air box and it killed the motor. Would not pull up banks in second or third that were no effort before. Changed back and all was well again. Im now in the process of piping the air intake out the back with 3" pipe right from the turbo.

As far as the heat lagging is concerned. In the late 90's or maybe year 2000 Kawasaki started putting a thermal coating on the front part of the exhaust system on their 2 strokes saying that keeping the heat in the exhaust for a few more inch's before it cooled was making them scavenge better and giving very good results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I noticed a huge difference with the exhaust. First I had full length with silencer and it was pretty much as standard. Then I had a side exit, which would have been approx 2/3 the original length, slightly larger bore with silencer and there was little difference. I then removed the silencer which made a small difference and the engine felt to have a small amount of extra power. The biggest difference came when I built the exhaust back to Full length without silencers. It revs quicker and more freely and throttle response has been improved making it much more controllable. Not sure why but I can only assume it has something to do with scavenging better.

Less back pressure will help the turbo spool up quickly therefore you come on boost earlier in the rev range giving a larger power band. Therefore a large (but not too big) bore pipe that has no silencers and as few kinks / bends as possible (and those that you need must be as large a radius as possible) will help a lot.

Dont underestimate the difference a good air supply will make. I changed to a slightly smaller air box and it killed the motor. Would not pull up banks in second or third that were no effort before. Changed back and all was well again. Im now in the process of piping the air intake out the back with 3" pipe right from the turbo.

I'd totally agree with this. Plus, given the conditions we work in, we will block up filters faster than most making it even more essential we have bigger airboxes. I've got a V8 defender one to go on mine and snorkel will be 3.5" bore (same bore as standard Safari which worked well on the 90).

As far as the heat lagging is concerned. In the late 90's or maybe year 2000 Kawasaki started putting a thermal coating on the front part of the exhaust system on their 2 strokes saying that keeping the heat in the exhaust for a few more inch's before it cooled was making them scavenge better and giving very good results.

Cooling = contraction and so lower pressure leading to the possibility of gas flow stalling in the exhaust which will be bad for torque. Its the same theory as exhausts being too large bore (particularly on N/A engines). Basically get the bore as small as possible (and keep gasses as warm as possible) so as not to strangle the top end you're looking for. Sheilding the exhaust will also help lower under bonnet temperatures which is a bonus.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will, you can't go too big on a turbo engined car, you just get to the point of diminishing returns.

NA is a totally different kettle of fish.

I forgot about the air box and supply in the above post.

I ditched the OE intake hose and replaced it with a 85mm ID hose, and lopped the end off the Safari snorkel (it necks down to a 2"ID, 2,3/8"OD spigot on the inside of the guard) to where it is a 3"OD spigot, and use a Donaldson filter element that flows much better than the OE filter with better filtration. (we've tested them ;) ) No way will I ever use a K&N on a 4WD. Race use only in my book

No noticeable improvement on an otherwise stock engine, but I'm sure it didn't hurt when the fuel and exhaust were modded.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will, you can't go too big on a turbo engined car, you just get to the point of diminishing returns.

NA is a totally different kettle of fish.

Yep, I know about the importance for NA but I've always been under the impression that, although design is much less critical on turbo engines, the basic principals apply. I freely admit its not something I know masses about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest noggy

Why has nobody mention the use of "cyclones" to spiral the air going into the engine, to mix with fuel better, to create a better bang?

do they really work?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why has nobody mention the use of "cyclones" to spiral the air going into the engine, to mix with fuel better, to create a better bang?

do they really work?

Take air, compress air in the turbo, split in in an intercooler, cool air, push it back together, run it into inlet manifold, split it into ports, send it down past the valves, compress it and then inject the fuel. (that doesn't include the several changes in direction)

Isn't it just post turbo they suggest the cyclone should go? If so how do you think the air will look after running it through that lot???? ;) Save your money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy