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LT230 oil cooler


66gaza

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I have searched and not found anything on the subject but would be surprised if no one on this site has not already done it. I am going to put a temp sender in my LT230 to monitor oil temps and if it is hot (BTW what is too hot?) I am thinking that an oil cooler will be the answer. I have synthetic oil in. I already have a suitable oil cooler and would think the best place to plumb it would be the drain and the level fill plug. Are these 1/2" bsp? has anyone already done this and if so how much did it help? Would a Facet fuel pump (already have) be suitable for the pump? the synthetic oil is thinner than EP90.

Gaza

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I have searched and not found anything on the subject but would be surprised if no one on this site has not already done it. I am going to put a temp sender in my LT230 to monitor oil temps and if it is hot (BTW what is too hot?) I am thinking that an oil cooler will be the answer. I have synthetic oil in. I already have a suitable oil cooler and would think the best place to plumb it would be the drain and the level fill plug. Are these 1/2" bsp? has anyone already done this and if so how much did it help? Would a Facet fuel pump (already have) be suitable for the pump? the synthetic oil is thinner than EP90.

Gaza

What makes you want one?

I've driven to spain in the 90 and never suffered with over heating of the LT230

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Not even offered by LR as a option on any 90/110 in any market. but main gearbox oil cooler is & sometimes fitted to hot & high overseas country market vehicles & European/UK spec if heavy towing is a everyday task or working a PTO or hydraulic winch or other special kit.

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Rocky mountain spares (scroll down the page a bit) do an extended sump case for the LT230, with cast on fins, so it holds more oil and has a kind of "radiator" effect at dispersing the heat.

Jim, I already have one. Apparantly they only got 10 and sold them and have been unable to get anymore.

I have 520 ft/lbs going through it, a lot of weight and might be going to morocco.

On my way home today I called in at Madison 4X4 and Patrick was having a look at my front prop and felt my LT230 was hot.

I thought they all ran hottish, so I am putting a temp gauge in and will go from there but as I have already said I am just thinking ahead.

So I take it nobody has done it because nobody has needed it. Patrick told me that Neil Redpath in his 6.2 supercharged Ibex boiled the oil in

his LT230 (mind I think he was doing a ton rushing for a ferry) which obviously resulted in needing a new one.

Gaza

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The main gearboxes get hot, obviously the LT230 is bolted to it so any heat is going to transfer between the two which is going to make accurate heat measurements a bit tricky. Since main gearbox coolers exist and are fitted, but no-one's ever bothered with the LT230, I'd take that as a clue where to start. Mind you, if I was running massive HP through a LR box, it getting a bit warm would be the least of my worries...

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The main gearboxes get hot, obviously the LT230 is bolted to it so any heat is going to transfer between the two which is going to make accurate heat measurements a bit tricky. Since main gearbox coolers exist and are fitted, but no-one's ever bothered with the LT230, I'd take that as a clue where to start. Mind you, if I was running massive HP through a LR box, it getting a bit warm would be the least of my worries...

Why bother trying to cool the main gearbox when its bolted to the engine any heat will transfer between the two (just taking your argument to the next step) ;) Do you want to put money on the "no ones ever bothered with the LT230, I'd take that as a clue where to start" statement? BTW I never mentioned massive HP, you did :P .

Gaza

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you may find the oil in the transfer box a bit thick to get a pump to cope with it afectively,

witch is probley why LR have never done a cooler for it.

I agree, but it is synthetic gear oil and quite thin, I did mention this earlier.

Gaza

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might be worth hunting about the race dezert site for a bit more tech, external diff coolers and pumps are normal over there.

apparently the kiddy to have is a Flojet pump (also rebadged as a Tilton pump) controlled by a thermostatic switch and running through a cooler, it should prime in around 5 seconds. spin up a couple of adaptor bungs and weld them on and your in business :)

Summit is your friend LINKY

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might be worth hunting about the race dezert site for a bit more tech, external diff coolers and pumps are normal over there.

apparently the kiddy to have is a Flojet pump (also rebadged as a Tilton pump) controlled by a thermostatic switch and running through a cooler, it should prime in around 5 seconds. spin up a couple of adaptor bungs and weld them on and your in business :)

Summit is your friend LINKY

Excellent info thanks

Gaza

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The main reason the R380's use an external oil cooler in hot climates is because the iron case can't dissipate the heat fast enough (and the oil volume is limited) and there is a stinking hot exhaust running alongside it. (part of the reason I lagged mine to the t/case)

The LT230, being all aluminium can at least shed heat a touch quicker.

Some of us here use either a 75W-110 or 80W-140 gear lube anyway, so it copes with high heat/load/torque better.

Monitor the temp, you want to keep it well under 100*C. IIRC, the oil t/stat in an R380 starts to open at around 87*C.

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Old Fairey overdrives when fitted to series vehicles were well known for overheating and toasting themselves over here in Oz. A mate of mine who did a lot of double horsefloat towing with his kept his overdrive alive for many years by pumping oil from the transfercase via an oil cooler into the overdrive ,which had its front oil seal removed to allow the oil to drain back into the transfercase. From memory he used a fuel pressure pump from a Triumph 2.5 P I (non electronic fuel injection).

Remember hot oil is thin oil so it shouldn't be too hard to find a contemporary pump that will move it, providing it can cope with the heat.

Having said all that I recall a few years back a bloke who had completed in the Australian Outback Challenge dropping his LT230 in to have it rebuilt, stating that he had inadvertantly driven 200 kilometers from Broken Hill (Hot country)with no oil after the drain plug had fallen out. Try as I did I couldn't find anything at all wrong with the transfercase, but fitted new bearings and seals to be on the safe side.During the years when another bloke I knew competed regularly in the Australian Wynns Safari Around OZ rally, LT230 equipped LR's were one of the few 4x4's that didn't fry their transfercase oil in high speed competition. Mitsubishis were notorious for it apparently.

Bill.

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The main reason the R380's use an external oil cooler in hot climates is because the iron case can't dissipate the heat fast enough (and the oil volume is limited) and there is a stinking hot exhaust running alongside it. (part of the reason I lagged mine to the t/case)

The LT230, being all aluminium can at least shed heat a touch quicker.

Some of us here use either a 75W-110 or 80W-140 gear lube anyway, so it copes with high heat/load/torque better.

Monitor the temp, you want to keep it well under 100*C. IIRC, the oil t/stat in an R380 starts to open at around 87*C.

Thanks for the info Rick. I am not using a Rover gearbox it is a NV4500, takes about 4L of oil. I have also lagged my exhaust to the B post. It does have 2 pto ports on it and I have thought about the ribbed coolers that replace these but as the gearbox is well within its design parameters it is not at the top of my priority list. The Lt230 was hot but I could keep my hand on it unlike a rad which is burn hot, mind this was after a gentle run and not a WOT hillclimb . Rocky Mountain said the ribbed sump ran 10C cooler than a normal sump. I may not need to go the cooler route after I monitor the oil temps.

Gaza

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Old Fairey overdrives when fitted to series vehicles were well known for overheating and toasting themselves over here in Oz. A mate of mine who did a lot of double horsefloat towing with his kept his overdrive alive for many years by pumping oil from the transfercase via an oil cooler into the overdrive ,which had its front oil seal removed to allow the oil to drain back into the transfercase. From memory he used a fuel pressure pump from a Triumph 2.5 P I (non electronic fuel injection).

Remember hot oil is thin oil so it shouldn't be too hard to find a contemporary pump that will move it, providing it can cope with the heat.

Having said all that I recall a few years back a bloke who had completed in the Australian Outback Challenge dropping his LT230 in to have it rebuilt, stating that he had inadvertantly driven 200 kilometers from Broken Hill (Hot country)with no oil after the drain plug had fallen out. Try as I did I couldn't find anything at all wrong with the transfercase, but fitted new bearings and seals to be on the safe side.During the years when another bloke I knew competed regularly in the Australian Wynns Safari Around OZ rally, LT230 equipped LR's were one of the few 4x4's that didn't fry their transfercase oil in high speed competition. Mitsubishis were notorious for it apparently.

Bill.

Interesting info as usual Bill, Thanks

Gaza

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A thought.

On our first trip to Southern Africa the heat from the transmission tunnel and the seatbox were unbearable at times.

For our next trip I fitted a gearbox oil cooler to the 380. Not much different.....

The last trip I'd done two things.

Fitted an X-Brake.

Removed the center silencer box. Despite being in higher ambient temperatures than on either of our previous trips the heat from the seatbox area wasn't aparent............

My ten bobsworth......

mike

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Mike, I have a X eng handbrake but not sure how it aids in cooling unless being smaller it lets more air flow. I have no silencers either, but that might be a case of moving the heat closer to you and doing aw3ay with it takes the source of the heat further away. When I was in France 3 years ago (6.5 V8) we had to stop driving as the heat was unbearable in both footwells. This engine runs much cooler and I have wrapped the exhaust to the B post so floor is only slifgtly warm now.

DirtyDiesel, you are a man after my own heart. I may look into that if the temp gauge tells me it is hot.

Gaza

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Guest diesel_jim
This one alubam05.jpg

will give you almost one more litre of oil, and some more alu dissipating surface.

No pumps no pipes no radiators, all things which might go wrong...

More info here:

http://www.africaland.it/alubam_eng.htm

This looks very interesting Silvio.

but there's no contact details for price/availability??? :unsure::unsure:

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Hi Jim,

just sens an e-mail to Roberto, the Africaland chairman: info@africaland.it

They should be available and ready, price is 85 euro plus postage to UK , of course.

This I think would be the first time that a LandRover item travels from Italy to UK, and not vice versa: a historical landmark, I guess :D

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www.mez.co.uk runs a twin turbo intercooled 5.7 Chevy V8 through a 4L60e custom coupled to a LT230

so far the only bit of the drivetrain that hasn't broken has been his LT230. Seeing how he drives (on drag strips and off road), if it was going to break then it already would have done.

reckon you might just be trying to cool the one bit of a land rover that wont break!

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www.mez.co.uk runs a twin turbo intercooled 5.7 Chevy V8 through a 4L60e custom coupled to a LT230

so far the only bit of the drivetrain that hasn't broken has been his LT230. Seeing how he drives (on drag strips and off road), if it was going to break then it already would have done.

reckon you might just be trying to cool the one bit of a land rover that wont break!

Well that and the salisbury's is about the only Landrover bits of the drivetrain left. Well a temp gauge will reveal all.

Gaza

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