will_warne Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Mike and Wayne Smith's comp rangie (winner of the OBC, malaysian rainforest challenge, etc) ran pegged rover diffs (with ARB lockers) for a while with Maxi-Drive (I think?) axles/halfshafts. They broke 2 pegged ring and pinions diffs but the halfshafts were fine (note they broke the gears, not the pinion shaft). They have since done the toyota centre conversion and have reportedly had no problems. Wayne Smith posted this in the rover section of outerlimits. NOTE - these were not Ashcroft pegged diffs. EDIT - have a look at the posts here by Smithy Jnr http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/...pic.php?t=63028I don't know if the toyota pinion is a larger diameter than a rover pinion. It is not common to break one though. Interesting reading, PM sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bush65 Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Possibly but I'm not sure what I'll break first. With the diffs pegged the 3 things I think I may break are the short front halfshaft, the propshaft or I'll shear the pinion on the diff. Is there any significant differance in the diameter of the pinion on a Toyota diff compared to a Rover one? The price for the shafts was for an axle set which suprised me as it was lower than I'd have expected. The Toy ring and pinion are hypoid (Rover are spiral bevel), and that makes them a lot stronger. Side by side, the Toy pinion is huge compared to Rover pinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuzurover Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Rover 3.54:1 ring and pinion (probably the strongest rover diff) Toyota 5.29:1 diff (weakest toyota diff) This is not the best comparison, but if you use the crownwheel diameter as a basis for measurement, the rover (8.25" CW) and toyota (8" CW) diffs have a similar size pinion shaft at the propshaft flange splines. Both seem to be about 27-29mm (anyone have the exact rover diameter?). But as John says above the pinion head of the rover diff is significantly larger (remember we are comparing largest rover pinion head with smallest toyota here), and stronger than the rover due to the hypoid vs spiral bevel design. anyway, both diffs, when they do break, break the gears and not the pinion (normally), so the pinion shaft diameter seems to be more than strong enough on both. EDIT - I have no idea why the rover diff above has no thread on the end to hold the UJ flange on (all the ones I own have a thread) - I assume it is threaded internally for a bolt - is this the latest design or aftermarket only??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 FWIW a guy here broke the ring of his HJ78 front diff on a track. Front locker engaged and 255/85 tyres. So even Toyota stuff is not immortal... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuzurover Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 FWIW a guy here broke the ring of his HJ78 front diff on a track.Front locker engaged and 255/85 tyres. So even Toyota stuff is not immortal... Nothing is indestructable. Was the diff high pinion or low pinion. High pinion fronts are very strong, low pinion not as strong (but still probably a lot stronger than a rover diff). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petergg Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 RE: EDIT - I have no idea why the rover diff above has no thread on the end to hold the UJ flange on (all the ones I own have a thread) - I assume it is threaded internally for a bolt - is this the latest design or aftermarket only??? You are spot on, threaded internally for a bolt . They been factory fitted for a few years now. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 EDIT - I have no idea why the rover diff above has no thread on the end to hold the UJ flange on (all the ones I own have a thread) - I assume it is threaded internally for a bolt - is this the latest design or aftermarket only??? I've got one just like it 3.54 10 spline that came off my 90. Now in bits with the shims pillaged. Seem to have a lot of diff bits in my garage at the mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lara Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 Hi Will, If you have been quoted 500 GB pounds each shaft in Maraging 300 then go and buy them fast, I have good cotacts in the matal supply industry and just the material cost me 1500 GB at trade price! Heat treatment is very very critical and secret squirrel for Maraging 300, I used contacts in F1 and that cost almost 500 pounds GB. Then the shot peening on top, without even thinking about machining costs. My shafts cost 3500 pounds for the set of 4. Make sure the people making them for you are not talking about M300 wich is also very strong but in no way compares to Maraging 300, I talked to a lot of so called experts before having mine made and so many people who should have known better were saying M300 in the same breath as Maraging. Quote BS S162 instead for Maraging (M300 is BS S155) and also ask for the offcut stamped end to make sure. For info, Dave Ashcroft was the only Landrover gear supplier that I spoke to that knew what Maraging realy was. Nuf said. Lara. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuzurover Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 You are spot on, threaded internally for a bolt . They been factory fitted for a few years now. Thanks guys, I have never worked on anything newer than the early 1990s. We all know the best landies were built between 1948 and 1988 (in OZ anyway, since you poor chaps didn't get the wonderful 3.9D ISUZU donk). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 If the european distributors are too greedy then you can always buy direct (e.g. through a friend in OZ) and cut out the middle man. When I am back there I am happy to help anyone out (live 40km from Mal's workshop). The prices out Mal's door don't change, except if you are buying a lot of stuff and paying cash you may get a discount.The prices in OZ last I checked (they may have changed): Rover locker (rear or front (inner halfshafts but no CVs) - $2000AUD Salisbury Locker - $1400AUD Halfshafts - $700ish a pair Low range gears $2000ish (I think Ashcroft works out a bit cheaper for these anyway) Drive flanges - $250AUD a pair I had a quote from Mal a few weeks ago. Rover Locker (Defender front with inner halfshafts but no CVs) - $1780AUD so, approx 700 quid. Salisbury Locker complete with shafts & drive members $1530AUD so, approx 600 quid. Sad to say guys, but if you were over here, you could have Maxidrive lockers and axles front & rear on your 110s for about 1300 quid all up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bush65 Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 FWIW a guy here broke the ring of his HJ78 front diff on a track.Front locker engaged and 255/85 tyres. So even Toyota stuff is not immortal... I haven't got any 78 series info handy, so I'm not sure if the front diff is high pinion. A problem with Toyota is they use crush sleeves to preload the pinion bearings. A solid spacer and shims fixes this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Me neither,at least nothing is perfect (Toyotas included!) I'm planning a Longs conversion,depending on $. Good chance for tech lessons... B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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