Chassis swap for shorter galvanized one

[Landowner]

Just having a think and wondering that if....no when my 110 chassis rots away would it be possible to buy a 90 chassis and stick all my bits on it.

Bodywork at the back end would have to be shortened and back prop I suppose but would it be possible ?

Cant afford a 110 gal chassis but could afford a 90 galv chassis

something for me to think about..

[sighnbox]

would not the cost of doing all the nessacery changes (choping new bits to make it work etc) cost more than the diffrance between a 90 & a 110 galv one ? Why not just wait a little longer save a bit more and save your self a big head ach.

[Landowner]

would not the cost of doing all the nessacery changes (choping new bits to make it work etc) cost more than the diffrance between a 90 & a 110 galv one ? Why not just wait a little longer save a bit more and save your self a big head ach.

Can't see any difference between them at the front until you get beyond the doors (mine's a two door 110) just a matter of loosing bits rather than adding to it as far as I can see.

or am I wrong

[Muther Trucker]

if you`ve seen "a 4x4 is born" you`ll know the work involved in shortening a rear tub, you could just buy a 90 rear prop, you would need a 90 fuel tank, you`d have to swap the rear axle spring seats and use 90 rear springs, you might have to get a sva or at least take it to a dvla local office cos you`ll need the log book changing, then you`d have to notify the insurance company who wont like it.... i think it would be a lot less hassle (a chassis swap is still a hassle tho... most of those rusty nuts havent been undone since they went on there in the factory...) to get a 110 chassis, or tart up your 110 + sell it for a 90 if thats what you want...

[Landowner]

if you`ve seen "a 4x4 is born" you`ll know the work involved in shortening a rear tub, you could just buy a 90 rear prop, you would need a 90 fuel tank, you`d have to swap the rear axle spring seats and use 90 rear springs, you might have to get a sva or at least take it to a dvla local office cos you`ll need the log book changing, then you`d have to notify the insurance company who wont like it.... i think it would be a lot less hassle (a chassis swap is still a hassle tho... most of those rusty nuts havent been undone since they went on there in the factory...) to get a 110 chassis, or tart up your 110 + sell it for a 90 if thats what you want...

Thought it wasn't that easy I'll get some oil on the chassis and preserve it for as long as poss.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

and an SVA

[western]

if your towing heavy trailers as in your avatar I suggest staying with the 110 wheelbase, much more stable whn towing.

[Landowner]

if your towing heavy trailers as in your avatar I suggest staying with the 110 wheelbase, much more stable whn towing.

You're right of course.

What I didn't think about was the repositioning of the rear suspension

twas just a thought as I really wanted a 90 but as you say the 110 is far better for towing and making a brew as there is more space

I've seen 90 galv chassis for 650 quid and the cheapest 110 was I think 17/1800 so that's what got me thinking.

[Mo Murphy]

Diesel_Jim did this but discovered afterwards that since he had changed the wheelbase he was no longer allowed to keep the old reg and had to have a Q plate.

Mo