Diff pegging

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

^^^^

Nige

[Lara]

Will You have a better sense of humor than the guy who welded that diff housing

Quote, "yes but I'm not a welder" Well that's OK then, makes it much better

Dave A must be holding his head in his hands!

Lara.

[Jon White]

I don't remember welding Jon's diff for him....

Er.............those pics are NOT of my diff!!!!

[RobotMan]

How hard can it be, well let's just say it is time consuming, requires a fair degree of skill and correct use of materials.

Above is a Detroit and an ARB, both 4.7:1

[white90]

Forum Discounts for free advertising

[RobotMan]

Fair point sorry!

I don't see a problem with discounts. This venture is very embryonic atm sold nothing spent lots lol.

[white90]

Bit like this site Spend lots to get it here and keep it running,

Members pay for it so advertising isn't really on

unless Forum discounts are available then a URL to your site is fine

but out and out advertising is removed.

Good luck with your venture

[bill van snorkle]

Anyone?

When I worked in the heavy vehicle transmission and differential rebuilding game a couple of years ago most ofthe factory pegged diffs I came across simply used the end off the single kicker bolt with a thou or two clearance against the crownwheel, without any bronze material.

It is often mentioned on these type of threads that the crownwheel flexes. In my experience that is simply not what happens. The standard Rover very open 2 pinion carrier is what flexes.That is the reason why many people report an increasein diff reliability after fitting aftermarket 4 pinion jobs. However, any carrier assembly on correctly adjusted, not overly preloaded bearings can still deflect away from the pinion under extreme provocation, and this is where pegging can help.

Bill.

[knudsen]

I have my doubts, Ive run 4.7s on arbs, could trash them for fun, went to 3.5's and only had 2 failures with regard to R+P stripping.

2nd failure happened this weekend (along with a GKN shaft) , so the ARBs are out, and going to be pegged, but cant find any phosie bronze lying around, anythoughts on just leaving a bolt head with a thou or 2 clearance?

I figure, that for the few times it might touch, the oil in the diff will do its job?

Rog, for what's at risk, I would contact an industrial supplier and buy or order a softer, self lubricating material. Ultra machinable brass is self lubricating and $5.

Alloy 360 Free-Machining Brass Rectangle 1/4" Thick X 1" Wide X 6" Length

In stock at $4.55 Each

http://www.mcmaster.com/

[RobotMan]

Rog, for what's at risk, I would contact an industrial supplier and buy or order a softer, self lubricating material. Ultra machinable brass is self lubricating and $5.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Phosphor bronze is easy enough to get, the amounts required for this job are often available as offcuts. I don't use a slipper pad but do indeed use phosphor bronze bushings on mine.

I have obviously looked at the pictures on the Crown link before and I would without doubt say that Steve knows his stuff and does a cracking job but on that one point I have to question 'how much higher was the load on the pegged diff when it went bang?' obviously we can't know until somebody does some destructive testing and to be honest probably only Dave Ashcroft could afford that if he even had any desire or need to. What I can says is that there is a LOT of anecdotal evidence supporting them being beneficial, I for one am obviously a strong believer.

[Jon White]

Rog, for what's at risk, I would contact an industrial supplier and buy or order a softer, self lubricating material. Ultra machinable brass is self lubricating and $5.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

No - brass is not suitable. The first one I did i used a lump of brass thinking exactly this and I found the slipper pad wore very very quickly and the shards of brass rubbed off contaminated the oil. Phosphor bronze is much more suitable.

Jon

[iomlt]

I dont agree with whoever says properly set up diffs dont break. I broke so many ring and pinions before pegging, and after pegging havnt had a single breakage. I had my diffs set up by the guy who does Jez's Volvo ones, so you're not telling me that they werent set up right - they're just not strong enough! I broke one on 7.50 muds on a standard 2.25 petrol engine for gawds sake!

Jon

for an example why dont Devon 4x4 do this then? and why do they not break their diffs oh and win competitions?

if your diff wears badly and there is alot of play / backlash then surely this would increase the cases of a failure?

i'm not saying that a pegged diff wont help alittle but surely it aint going to stop a failure if the diff isnt set up correctly to start with?

[will_warne]

for an example why dont Devon 4x4 do this then? and why do they not break their diffs oh and win competitions?

if your diff wears badly and there is alot of play / backlash then surely this would increase the cases of a failure?

i'm not saying that a pegged diff wont help alittle but surely it aint going to stop a failure if the diff isnt set up correctly to start with?

They have done in the past Go and look under their old bobtail and you will find a pair of pegged diffs.

I'd agree with you, though, that building the diffs correctly (with parts that are not worn out) makes a huge difference to the strength.

[RobotMan]

Are Devon 4x4 not running Discovery II axles now?