CJRH Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 I know there have been various posts about this but my question is does it improve the steering at all? I’m thinking of going down the disco steering box route. Also, can someone give me a link do a good detailed build thread please. Cheers, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 they make an amazing difference in my opinion sorry i don't have detailed pictures, but we've done it by moving the front x member forward and then using a disco / defender steering box and a defender steering column. Gord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJRH Posted September 9, 2008 Author Share Posted September 9, 2008 Thanks for the reply Gord, that’s what I was hoping someone was going to say! I’ve been in two minds about this as I’ve got a lovely galvanized chassis that I’m reluctant to start chopping / welding on. I’ve nearly got all the bits to do the 200tdi conversion so while I’m at it I might as well do the power steering conversion at the same time. If anyone has any photo’s please can I have them. Cheers, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 PAS makes a big difference on the Series, in fact my setup is lighter on 37's than some RR & Defenders I've driven on normal size tyres. For photos (and write-ups) try the search button Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJRH Posted September 9, 2008 Author Share Posted September 9, 2008 I had a good look through earlier using the search button, was hoping that someone could point me towards a thread with a complete build in it! I'll have another go, don't want to be seen as been lazy!!! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 There's not enough room to just bolt the PAS box in place, so the front crossmember has to be either modified or moved forwards to make room. I removed the battery tray and crossmember completely and then made a new crossmember out of 5-inch box section steel and located it 4-inches further forwards. You will also need to drill the holes/fit crush tubes to mount it on the chassis rail. You can't then use the steering column link rod from the donor vehicle as it's too short - I have got the link rod from a Disco, which can be adjusted to be longer. Be careful where you locate the PAS box on the chassis rail - the drop arm/steering rod may foul on the spring (or was it the hanger?) on full lock. Fridge fitted his high up - modifying the the top of the chassis rail to do this. If you've got a nice galvanised chassis - you are going to have to chop bits off it Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 I think it is possible to attach a P38 PAS box to the outside of the chassis rail, as the box would sit on the chassis rail. I've not done this (yet), but I reckon it would work. You may have to cut your battery box holder though. If you HAD a p38 PAS box kicking about you could try it. g. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 I think it is possible to attach a P38 PAS box to the outside of the chassis rail, as the box would sit on the chassis rail.I've not done this (yet), but I reckon it would work. You may have to cut your battery box holder though. If you HAD a p38 PAS box kicking about you could try it. g. surely your wheels will foul on it though ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 I had a good look through earlier using the search button, was hoping that someone could point me towards a thread with a complete build in it! OK here goes: Remove Series steering complete Tack a brace across the front chassis legs Cut out the front x-member Bolt 90/110 steering column and shaft in to bulkhead Fabricate a brace for the bottom bearing of the column Offer PAS box up so it joins the shaft at the right point Mark chassis with your cardboard drilling template Drill holes in chassis, making four of them oversize to allow... Cut four lengths of steel tube with an inner diameter the same as the steering box bolts, and the same length as the thickness of the chassis rail Weld the tubes into the holes Bolt steering box on Cut a length of box section or whatever else you want to make your new front crossmember out of, it wants to be thinner in profile than the original. 100x50x3 box will do nicely. Weld it in so it supports your rad panel as the original did (you may wish to poach the brackets from the old item) Here's the pictures: Mount for D2 box The whole setup with Defender column The new x-member from behind, cutout is for the winch drive, support is for the rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Just out of interest does moving the front cross member forward make it need an SVA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJRH Posted September 10, 2008 Author Share Posted September 10, 2008 As always some good advice and interesting thoughts! Les, we spoke about this when I picked the gearbox up, would it be possible to chop the front cross member out and re-weld it in further forward rather than using a new bit of box section? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Just out of interest does moving the front cross member forward make it need an SVA? I suppose it rather depends how you read the book, but I don't think they are really worried unless you shorten or lengthen the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 given the dimensional tolerances for a Landrover chassis I think moving the crossmember by less than 2 chain lengths is still considered a repair and within build spec or is it a furlong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 I think original series chassis tolerance was specified as 1 acre... that is, longitudinally +/- 1/2 a furlong, and laterally +/- 1/2 a chain gives you a target area of 1 acre..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Cutting the front crossmember off with the intention of moving it and re-attaching it is going to be very difficult. I tried it, got cross, and hacked the damn thing off in about 10-bits Whilst in the red mist I also cut off the check strap brackets, shock mounts, gearbox crossmember, flywheel crossmember, and any other sticky out bits that I didn't like the look of Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 surely your wheels will foul on it though ??? No, the PAS box, when placed at the end of the crossmember, doesn't foul the tyre. It sits just forward of the axle and takes up less space than a shock absorber. You may need to reroute the brake flexihose though. I reckon it is doable. The P38 box is very different to the defender disco box, and bolts to the outside of the chassis rail on the P38a ( I think). The steering column is inward of the drop arm, rather than outward on the defender/disco. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJRH Posted September 10, 2008 Author Share Posted September 10, 2008 Here are some photo's of p38 power steering boxes out of interest: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJRH Posted September 10, 2008 Author Share Posted September 10, 2008 Ok, after some thought and another look through previous topics about this using the search function I think I’m going to notch the front cross member rather than chopping the whole thing out and raise the power steering box up. As always thanks for all of the help! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBorges Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 Take a look on this site: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/PowerSteering.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woop Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Does anyone know if the disco1 and defender steering shafts are the same length? I'm going down the same path as Fridge and using a Disco2 PAS box for my conversion. Can i just use a disco1 steering shaft with disco2 ujoint at PAS box end, or is Defender shaft longer? Also slightly off topic, Fridge, do those radiator support brackets in the picture, position your radiator slightly above the steering box? What size radiator did you end up having made for your conversion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 14, 2008 Share Posted September 14, 2008 Can i just use a disco1 steering shaft with disco2 ujoint at PAS box end, or is Defender shaft longer? I don't rightly know - I used a Defender top shaft to mate to the defender column, and a D2 bottom UJ. The defender setup is different to Disco/RR as the column finishes higher up on the bulkhead, but I don't know if the shafts are longer or just angled differently. Also slightly off topic, Fridge, do those radiator support brackets in the picture, position your radiator slightly above the steering box? They position it above the ram part, it's really tight in there but that's my own making what with having a wide, thick rad. TBH I forgot about the thickness when I specced it, it nearly didn't fit! A normal Series size rad would sit alongside the PAS box no problem. What size radiator did you end up having made for your conversion? I don't remember exactly, it's full width and about 35cm high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Jones Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 I want to fit the PAS steering on my Airportable too but the only donor parts I have now are from a 1989 Range Rover 3.5 EFI classic. 4 bollt Box. Could I use that because that I know was a good box and didn't leak? Is there any particular reason people are using disco 2 and P38 RR boxes or is it just a case they are what's personally easily available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 I want to fit the PAS steering on my Airportable too but the only donor parts I have now are from a 1989 Range Rover 3.5 EFI classic. 4 bollt Box. Could I use that because that I know was a good box and didn't leak?Is there any particular reason people are using disco 2 and P38 RR boxes or is it just a case they are what's personally easily available? Most people use the normal RR/Disco boxes, I used Disco2 because the sector shaft is stronger and I'm spinning 37's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Jones Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Most people use the normal RR/Disco boxes, I used Disco2 because the sector shaft is stronger and I'm spinning 37's. Thanks for the info mate Good, was getting worried, i'll stay with much less diameter, wouldn't quite look right with 37's on my tarted up Airportable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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