Max Series-3 Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 In my series III what do the levers do one of them is 4 wheel drive and the other Diff?? How do you apply the yellow one push down and turn?! I probably sound like a complete idiot but i don't know! Tops of doors shaking one is held on by screw and the other by nut and bolt. Is it just tighten them up?! Also the door isn't closing properly and flying open when going round a corner! Thanks Max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Red one is High range in rear wheel drive when pushed away from you. Red one pulled back is low range in 4 wheel drive. Yellow one pressed down is 4 wheel drive in high range. To release the yellow knob, you need to pull the red lever back and then forwards - as you do so, the yellow knob will pop back up. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Series-3 Posted October 5, 2008 Author Share Posted October 5, 2008 How do you put the yellow one down? (i sound like an idiot!) Everytime i puch it down it pops back up again, do i have to push down and twist? Max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Door Tops have two "bolts" which are fixed in place (ie welded at the top) so you just tighten a nut on the bottom of both bolts to hold it in place. Lots tend to get wobbly with time, but you often can't tighten them as the bolt is too rotten. Normally ends up needing new door tops when they get that bad. They're only just over £20 a piece from paddocks, you also need the seals and the window channel. Whole lot for two door tops is about £50. You then need to dismantle your old door tops to rescue the glass, the locks and the aluminum spacer bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Or you can spend ~£150 on Rocky Mountain alloy & stainless door tops, they arrive fully glazed too I think. The long bolts often rust, I've seen the things rust away to nothing before now, and even had one rust into the mounting tube so that trying to undo the bolt ripped the tube out of the door bottom Doors flying open often just needs the striker plate adjusting, it's just two bolts - the nuts should be captive, welded to a plate in the door pillar (if you completely undo both the plate will fall down). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 In my series III ... the door isn't closing properly and flying open when going round a corner! First check the door hinges. Open the door very slightly, put your hand under the bottom edge, as far away from the hinges as possible, and lift the door by that hand, watch the hinges as you do so. If there is a lot of lift possible, and you can see it's caused by movement between the two halves of the hinges, then change the hinges. The upper one is likely to be worse than the lower, but change both. Someone else will be able to say whether you can fit just new hinge pins (I don't know), but I'd suggest changing the hinges anyway. It is possible that hinge wear is only part of the problem. The hinges may be moving on the door or the bulkhead as well. Only after the slop is taken out of the hinges can you start to sort out the alignment issue that is stopping the catch engaging properly with the latch (stricker) plate on the door frame. The lack of proper engagement may be just lack of alignment, but it could also be wear. You just have to look, and make a judgement. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPR Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Do not apply either 4wd high or low range while driving on tarmac or other hard surfaces. There is no center differential, so when you are in 4wd the transmission will wind up and eventually cause you great hassle. On soft surfaces, the tyres "scrub" releasing the energy stored up in the transfer case. Your door locks are adjustable. If you look at the latch into which the door clicky-slidy thing sits, you will note that it can be adjusted by loosening the retaining screws and moving the latch with a light hammer tap. Trial and error will eventiually get you to a better fit. If the door lock bar (aka clicky-slidy thing is not retaining at all in the latch, some gasket material may help better position the latch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Series-3 Posted October 5, 2008 Author Share Posted October 5, 2008 I tightened up the hinges today but fatigue means that 2 of the four screws / bolts on the door have been replaced (new bolts) but the two that are left are shocking they have been rounded off and rusted away so i can't get a screw driver to get them out! Also The one door top is fixed (abit!! ) but the other (drivers side) has been replaced and used some sort a metal plate with holes in and just been 'screwed' on. Thanks Max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 Do not apply either 4wd high or low range while driving on tarmac or other hard surfaces. There is no center differential, so when you are in 4wd the transmission will wind up and eventually cause you great hassle. On soft surfaces, the tyres "scrub" releasing the energy stored up in the transfer case. By "great hassle" I assume you mean "loss of forward motion followed by a potentially expensive bang" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 If you are in low range (red lever towards you), the yellow knob won't stay down. If you are in high range (red lever forwards), then when you push the yellow knob down (don't twist it), it should stay down until you pull the red lever back and then forwards again - at which time it will pop back up. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumonkey17 Posted October 5, 2008 Share Posted October 5, 2008 For the bolts that are still stuck try an impact driver. Basically it's a screw driver that you hit with a hammer that will take the force of the smack and make it turn the screw at the same time as making the driver bite into the screw head so that it doesn't slip. Great bit of kit that costs about a tenner and sorted a lot of bolts on my series 3 saving a hell of a lot of hastle. Could try a bit of releasing oil (or wd40 if you want to be cheap like me) sometimes helps a bit but to be honest I always found the impact driver to be best, just watch your fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPR Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 By "great hassle" I assume you mean "loss of forward motion followed by a potentially expensive bang" something like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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