westonben Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Had it break down on me twice before and it's just happened again. Basically it will turn over but won't fire. There's no fuel getting to the engine. I've got a full tank before you ask! Last 2 times it just fixed itself! Main dealer fixed a pressure gauge and took it for 100km ride - no problems with pressure. What else could it be?? Can a faulty fuel temp sensor cut the fuel supply? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 If its got a normal alarm/immob system check out the post in the tech archive regarding the alarm spider, AFAIK the spider also controls a feed to the fuel pump so if it is intermittent it could be early signs of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 The ECU controls the fuel pump so any fault that upsets the ECU could result in "no fuel" when in fact it's some other problem. What year/engine is it? if you know, what EFI setup is it? (Flapper, hotwire, GEMS?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Also check if there is a crash switch on the bulkhead in the engine bay, I think this works by cutting off the fuel pump on a V8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westonben Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 Thanks guys. It's a 1999 Series 1 3.9 with Hotwire 14CUX EFI. Not sure it's got an alarm, but will look into that. Read the info on the Spider, it does sound like it could be that. Especially the starting at a later date... Inertia switch is easy to check too, will try again when I get home tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Have you got sparks at the plugs? There are a few possibilities: - Faulty ignition amp or dodgy feed from that to the ECU (no signal = ECU doesn't see the engine turning = no fuel) these can often fail when hot and work again when cold. - Dodgy airflow meter (I can't recall the exact way the hotwire ones are set up but on flapper the AFM also controls the fuel pump feed ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevegibbs Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Hi, i have had same problem with my 3.9 all seems well then it just will not start. I have changed everything trying to eliminate the problem, ecu, air meter, all the senders, relays, wiggle test wiring clean connections etc etc but it paid off becouse it turned out to be the fuel pump to wiring plug. I have twecked the pins in the plug and most of the time there is no problem but i have had to do the wiggle thing once or twice and it has always worked. I have been going to replace the fuel pump but they arnt cheap, if i did i would also get a new plug or hard wire it some how but becouse i can start on lpg still its never stopped me going. I hope some of this may be helpful. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westonben Posted December 16, 2008 Author Share Posted December 16, 2008 Not inertia switch and no Alarm system fitted. Got it towed away last night - will let you know the outcome.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 Hi, i have had same problem with my 3.9 all seems well then it just will not start. <..> becouse it turned out to be the fuel pump to wiring plug. Me too - the wires on my 1990 EFI go into the fuel pump via a potted 'cup'. The potting was cracked and the wires had corroded through until they were merely being held in place by the potting, with the inevitable intermittent results. I removed all of the remaining potting, replaced the wire back to the connector* and soldered the new wire on to the pump terminals** and potted it with Sikaflex. Seems ok now. Roger * The wire had black corrosion nearly all along it's length inside the sheath. The black could be scraped off the individual wires, but there was no way I could get a decent soldered joint using this stuff so I changed it. ** Soldering took a fair effort - the pins were awkward to clean and made quite good heat-sinks so a decent gas (Portasol) soldering iron was required. For safety I did it with the pump removed from the tank and well dried of petrol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westonben Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share Posted December 18, 2008 Dodgy airflow meter (I can't recall the exact way the hotwire ones are set up but on flapper the AFM also controls the fuel pump feed ) We've got a winner! Looks like a new airflow meter is on the cards ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First_Fleet Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 Didn't you just have this checked out & found to be ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westonben Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share Posted December 18, 2008 Didn't you just have this checked out & found to be ok? I certainly did. Was working perfectly before this...... god knows what's happening. Will go get the car tonight and find out more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 It's Lucas - they never work perfectly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westonben Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 Another inconclusive result. Running fine now..... I've decided to sell it, after 9months of grief. It's too unreliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First_Fleet Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 I've decided to sell it, after 9months of grief. It's too unreliable. Seems a shame for only one problem which you seemed to be closing in on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncletom Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Had it break down on me twice before and it's just happened again. Basically it will turn over but won't fire. There's no fuel getting to the engine. I've got a full tank before you ask!Last 2 times it just fixed itself! Main dealer fixed a pressure gauge and took it for 100km ride - no problems with pressure. What else could it be?? Can a faulty fuel temp sensor cut the fuel supply? I just stumbled on this post. I have a 99 disco1 4.0 V8 US specs. Same symptoms as you. Turned out to be a cold solder joint in the multifuntion relay box mounted rf fender behind the collision stop switch approx. (1" X 3" X 4" with two plugs) I found that by tapping gently on the top within 10 seconds from turning on the key the fuel pump would fire immediately every time. I cut the botom of the box open and resoldered the resister better ( the one of three closest to the bottom) and this has been the problem for a long time. Just too much resistence to pull in the fuel pump relay. A new unit is about $100 US and just plugs in with 2 plugs. It's may be wourth a quick tap to test it if yours is like mine. uncletom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I just stumbled on this post. I have a 99 disco1 4.0 V8 US specs. Same symptoms as you. Turned out to be a cold solder joint in the multifuntion relay box mounted rf fender behind the collision stop switch approx. (1" X 3" X 4" with two plugs) I found that by tapping gently on the top within 10 seconds from turning on the key the fuel pump would fire immediately every time. I cut the botom of the box open and resoldered the resister better ( the one of three closest to the bottom) and this has been the problem for a long time. Just too much resistence to pull in the fuel pump relay. A new unit is about $100 US and just plugs in with 2 plugs.It's may be wourth a quick tap to test it if yours is like mine. uncletom I am brand new to this site so at the outset I want to thank everyone for bearing with me. I have a 1997 Discovery SE 4.0 V8 US specs with a two button key fob and I have a very similar "non-starting" problem. Within the past couple of months, it has started refusing to start. Sometimes if I leave it alone for an hour or two, it will start and operate normally for several days or a week, and then quit again. A couple of weeks ago it quit and has sat in my driveway while I tried all sorts of things to get it to start without success -- until this morning. It cranked up and operated normally again --- but only for about two hours when it simply died in a store parking lot and will not start again. During each disablement, the engine turns over but will not fire and run. When I turn the key to the "run" position, initially Nothinghappens. If I continue to hold the key in the "run" position for about 4 seconds OR if I turn the key back and forth between position "2" and "run" several times, the engine will then begin to turn over, but it will not fire off. I have researched a number of websites to try and figure out what is going on and believe the problem must lie with the engine immobilization system but am unsure as I am NO mechanic. It seems that this LR4X4 site has the most knowledgeable and helpful members and I would extremely appreciate any help. My car is useless the way it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I am brand new to this site so at the outset I want to thank everyone for bearing with me.I have a 1997 Discovery SE 4.0 V8 US specs with a two button key fob and I have a very similar "non-starting" problem. Within the past couple of months, it has started refusing to start. Sometimes if I leave it alone for an hour or two, it will start and operate normally for several days or a week, and then quit again. A couple of weeks ago it quit and has sat in my driveway while I tried all sorts of things to get it to start without success -- until this morning. It cranked up and operated normally again --- but only for about two hours when it simply died in a store parking lot and will not start again. During each disablement, the engine turns over but will not fire and run. When I turn the key to the "run" position, initially Nothinghappens. If I continue to hold the key in the "run" position for about 4 seconds OR if I turn the key back and forth between position "2" and "run" several times, the engine will then begin to turn over, but it will not fire off. I have researched a number of websites to try and figure out what is going on and believe the problem must lie with the engine immobilization system but am unsure as I am NO mechanic. It seems that this LR4X4 site has the most knowledgeable and helpful members and I would extremely appreciate any help. My car is useless the way it is. Sounds like the spider unit is playing up have a read of this thread from the tech archive it may help:- Click Here . Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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