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Bad rear door rattle


bm52

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Hi

i have a1995 90 which had a knackered rear door.

i replaced the door with a series door which fits very well. however i could only get the door to lock using the original slam type lock [front door style if that makes sense?]

it locks well and seems fine until you drive down bumpy roads when the shifting of the body and door make the lock rattle like mad. i have adjusted the lock and even drilled the bolt holes oblong to pull the door in and squash the door seal - still rattles :(

any ideas?

i have'nt tried but do you know whether the original lock would fit a series door, the exterior key hole positions look different in the doors!

thanks

bm52

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did you fit the dove tail from the removed door to the now fitted Series door, that part carries the doors weight instead of all the weight being on the lock mechanism, which may cause the rattle.

what dove tail? i would be grateful for a clue, sounds like this could be the problem. all the weight is on the hinges. i have'nt fitted anything else.

is the dovetail a shaped block the door rests on at the bottom? and do you know whether it would fit a 300tdi.

thanks for your help

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it's the part that fits below the door lock on the door & striker on the vehicle body, I'll add a photo shortly

1st photo, door striker & dovetail on vehicle body

2nd photo

lock & dovetail support on door

both are standard fit on all 90/110 hardtop or station wagon, to help support the rear door & spare wheel.

hope it helps :D

post-20-1232893417_thumb.jpg

post-20-1232893439_thumb.jpg

Edited by western
photo's added.
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this my door

no dovetail and i can't see any bolt holes for it! any idea where i can get a dove tail, can't see any on the usual online stores or ebay.

cheers

you need a bracket welded to the door just where there is a cut out in the ally panel below the door lock. A brass wedge is then bolted to the bracket which should line up with another bracket to fit the wedge on the door pillar. Best to look at another Landy with it all in place. Also, a third hinge would be handy if you carry a spare on the door. I would have thought the old door should have been fitted with all you need. The same applies to the new door too!

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the dovetail was'nt fitted to my defender or the door i bought so this is new territory for me.

it makes sense to have a dovetail so it looks like i will have to buy a whole new set and fit it to both the door and door jam.

and yes i have the spare on the door which might explain why the old door split!!

i'll give bearmach a call, any ideas where i can buy a dovetail set other than bearmach?

cheers

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strange it's never been fitted, the whole reason for it was to offload the door hinges when a spare wheel mount is fitted to the rear door, the parts diagram with the parts highlighted below

items 9 to 12 for the door, items 20 to 25 for the body.

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post-20-1232913388_thumb.jpg

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The dovetail doesn't take any strain off the hinges, just the lock. It's adjustable, so can be set to take the all the weight on that edge without interfering with the lock's operation.

They were fitted in the factory to many vehicles, but not all. My SIII had it, but the Defender County rear door I fit to it (complete with factory spare carrier) does not have the mopunting bracket, and the replacement door trim card lacks the spaces for the bracket. I think it was deleted from one model of the Defender (I suspect the 300Tdi) as a Solihull cost saving measure, but was then re-introduced.

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Mine is the same as BM52 ie no dovetail. The parts diagram is great, but only shows it in use for up to KA.... my '95 starts MA... so was it still fitted to later models?

I fitted the spare wheel on a Mantec carrier, and whilst expensive, it has certainly made a huge difference as the door no longer carries the weight of the spare wheel.

Malcolm

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