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H14W help


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I'm a new owner and it need stripping and servicing .......

How do I take it to bits!


Everything is a bit seized on it - I thought from the diagram that releasing the tie bar would enable the whole lot to slide apart - but it isn't. There is a bit of movement when you apply a bit of leverage between the drum and the body - but I don't want to damage the seal there.

Without a manual and an obvious order to strip it I don't want to mistake stubbornness to move with shouldn't move! and damage anything.

So if someone could just get me started please? :D

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I have Ralph!

I took the end cover off and the bolts around the drive shaft - creating no extra movement nor revealing any more obvious bolts. I thought the worm gear might pull out so that the main shaft and gear would pull out through the cover .... but not movement or clear place to drift it out.

There are two grub screws holding the fitting onto the end of the drive shaft but they are starting to round inside - and it looks like it won't make any difference to removing that shaft.

I've searched for the info - but whilst I know folk on here have them I can't find anything.

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I phoned them sometime ago to get some info on my husky winch to go on the new data plate, don't remember who i spoke to but it was one of the technicians not a stuck in a office bod.

Superwinch Ltd

Abbey Rise

Tavistock, Devon, PL19 9DR


Phone: 01822 614101

just in case you don't have it :D

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Mmmm Superwinch units :(

These thing are an absolute nightmare to get apart.

Although I have not had an H14 apart,

I have (on my own) had 525, and a series 8000 apart,

and with Jon Whites help had another model apart

the number of which I can't remember.

These are not "Bolt Together" winches, they need HUGE presses and Huge pullers

and or sledgehammers to get thing moving, the danger with the latter is

that it comes apart only as you destroy it. The prob we had on all 3 was the huge gear

wheel on the shaft a press fit it seemed :(

IMHO these winches are not DIY refurb unless you

A - have an idea how they come apart / go back together and

B - have access to a well equiped workshop inc HUGE pullers and preses

Been there done it - and its seriously tough and hard to do :(


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I'd have to get A from Superwinch or here? and B would involve troubling my engineer friends....

So perhaps just flush it out, new gasket, fresh oil and mask it up to paint it then!


My free spool lever is as stiff has hell - with the unit not having been used for a while, so hopefully it'll free up with use.

Thanks for the reply Nige.

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and D send myself into Debt!


I'll confirm there is nothing really wrong with it before I commit to paying for a rebuild. If it had just been parts and my time I'd have done it - but I can't run to the expense of paying a professional for it at the moment.

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and D send myself into Debt!


I'll confirm there is nothing really wrong with it before I commit to paying for a rebuild. If it had just been parts and my time I'd have done it - but I can't run to the expense of paying a professional for it at the moment.

quite possibly :rofl::unsure:

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I took my H14 apart when I first got it, to give it a general service and replace some broken bits.

I can't remember exactly how it all comes apart, but it wasn't too stressful to separate the ends from the drum. I didn't take any of the worm gear mechanism apart - just greased everything up, replaced the freespool lever (which I think involved knocking out a roll pin), and put it all back together.

Not the most helpful post - sorry :huh:

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To strip your H14 do the following:

Strip Down

1/. Remove the tie bar that links the two red housings together.

2/. Stand the winch on it's end with the drive housing lowest. Attempt to lift off the free spool housing complete. It 'should' lift straight off. But the winch drive shaft may be siezed in the spherical bearing in the free spool housing. Just use to tyre levers or simlar to pry the red free spool housing off aginst the drum flange. If you damage the lip seal around the drum flange - don't worry it will be perished any way and they are only a few quid. Put the free spool housing to one side.

3/. Remove the the big circlip from the end of the exposed winch center shaft. You will need to push the drum back allong the winch center shaft to allow this to come off as the drum is being pushed against the circlip by the two sprung anti rotation 'buttons' between the drum and drive housing.

4/. Slide the drum off the winch center shaft. If your unlucky the shaft will be rusty in the center - this will mean the drum gets stuck after sliding allong the winch shaft about 1". It will move with a bit of persasion. However if you choose to hit the drum flanges to get it to move - BE CAREFULL. The weld between the flanges and the drum center tube will facture........ Put your now fractured drum to one side.

5/. You now just have the drive housing left with the input shaft and the winch center shaft sticking out of it. If you want to strip it make sure you keep the parts in order so that the shims go back in the right place. Remove the propshaft UJ from the input shaft. Remove the 4 allen head bolts around the input shaft. Hold the winch center shaft in one hand and rotate the input shaft. One way will wind the input shaft and worm out of the drive housing. Note that there are a number of shims between the input shaft removable bearing housing and the roller thrust bearing. These set the end float on the input shaft/worm gear. Don't loose!

6/. Now undo the 8 set screws that hold the circular plate on the end of the drive housing. The plate should then come off with a bit tapping on it;s edge. Don't stick a screw driver down the gasket face - you will damage the aluminum faces on the housing or the plate. This will result in the plate not sitting flat when you rebuild it - this will make the winch shaft end bearing sit at an angle to the shaft. Note that the gasket thickness used to seal the plate onto the housing and the little shim that fits in the bearing housing on the reverse side of the plate set the end float of the winch center shaft. If you don't get the right gasket from superwinch, or cut your own from the right thickness gasket paper you will need to adjust the end float using a different little shim - Get the right gasket!

7/. You should now be looking into the drive housing and be seeing the big wheel gear. The winch center shaft should now slide out towards you.

8/. Go back to the Free spool housing. Remove the 4 allen head cap screws that hold on the free spool lever locking mechanism. The locking mecahnisam should now just lift off.

9/. Lay the free spool housing down so you are looking into it. You should see a roll pin that loactes the engagement fork onto the free spool lever shaft. Drift it out. The free spool lever and shaft should now come out of the housing. Often they are siezed. If so drill a small hole in the plastic plug on the front face of the free spool housing. This will allow you to use a screw driver to leaver out the plug. You can now use a drift to knock the free spool lever out.

10/. The splined dog collar should now be free to lift out of the housing complete with the engagement fork.

11/. The last component in the free spool housing is now the spherical bearing. This should spin and be free to tilt. If you need to remove it you need a external bearing puller with a slide hammer. Alternatively turn a bit of hard wood down so that it just fits into the bearing bore. Pack the inside of the bearing with grease, fit the wooden shaft on top and hit with a hammer (wear safety glasses) - it will hydraulicaly push the bearing out.

12/. Clean up your componets/check condition etc.

I would suggest that you do not remove the bearings either side of the wheel gear. You will need a big press to remove the wheel to get at the back bearing. The worm and wheel are an industrial quality gear set running on proper bearings (unlike most winches). Unless you have had a bearing failure or oil contamintation they should be OK to reuse. If not they are all available from a bearing stockists (even the spherical bearing). You need to knock out the 'core plug' to change out the roller bearing at the non drive end of the worm gear.


1/. Start by fitting a new lip seal into the drive housing for the winch center shaft. Pack the ball bearings either side of the wheel gear with grease - they don't sit in the oil. Put the drive housing on your black and decker work mate so that you can them lower the winch center shaft and wheel gear assembly into the housing.

2/. Use a bit of grease to hold the small shim in the bearing pocket of the housing end plate. Use a new gasket and fit the end plate. It may need gently tapping on over the bearing. If it is sticking, take it off and put it in the oven at 150C. It will expand enough to slide on. Fit and do up the 8 set screws. Check the winch center shaft is free to turn - is should spin easily and have negliable end float. If it doesn't turn easily you have probably trapped the small shim.

3/. Turn the drive housing on it's side so that you are looking into the hole the worm goes in. Using a screw driver or similar drop the thrust bearing into it's recess. Put the worm gear into the drive housing by rotating it to screw it past the wheel gear. Fit the drive end thrust bearings and the shims, place the aluminium end cover on and do up the 4 allen head cap screws. Check the input shaft turns freely. Also check the input shaft end float. With the winch center held tightly you should have about 0.010" end float (this is my figure, superwinch were reluctant to tell me the correct one, so I measured the end float before I stripped mine)

The rest is the the reverse of the strip B) .


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