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haakon

D1 V8 EFI engine issues

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I've got a D1 V8 efi automatic Saudi spec. My original distributor gave me some troubles last summer and was therefore changed with a new Mallory distributor. The ignition timing was set accordlingy to the manual, but now the car wouldn't start whenever the enginge was warm. So the next suspect was fuel, and I have therefore changed the injectors, all the sensor, the fuel pump, fuel filter, stepper, fuel pressure regulator but it still doesn't start whenever the engine is warm. The only way to start the engine is to have full throttle.

So today I decided to have a look at ignition again. I've now set the ignition timing in the area around 20-25 degree and now it runs nice and it starts when the engine is warm. The idle is a bit to high, around 950 rpm and it goes a bit up and down. I have not tried to adjust the base idle. I've tried to adjust it back the 4 degrees it runs bad and will stop shortly.

I've a Piper RP4 camshaft. So my question is, does anyone have good suggestions to why my timing is so way off? Anyone with Mallory distributors and/or Piper cam that have any ideas? Any other suggestions?

Should I start reading more about MS?

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Just a quick one to check,set the engine to the firing point on #1.Mark the dist where the #1 lead is coming out of the cap and then see how far away from the mark the rotor is pointing.Very possible you have the dist shaft in a tooth out so the spark is happening when the tip of the rotor is too far away from the contact in the cap.Turning the dist will just give a good enough compromise to get it to run.

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Should I start reading more about MS?

Yes :P it's easier in the long run :lol:

Although you should probably also stop spending loads of money randomly changing bits, it's very rare for injectors to go faulty for example, and you can test almost everything in-situ with a cheap multimeter.

There is a full EFi diagnostics & fault-finding manual in the technical archive although it sounds like your problem is ignition-related.

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Most likely the dissy is a tooth out. Check there's a spark when hot starting. How does the RP4 cam compare with the stock 3.9 cam? Some people claim there's not any difference other than the price.

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I had some leaking injectors and therefore I decided to change them all at once.

What will MS cost me? And what do I need? And last, but not least, I live in Norway, and there are no LR's as far as I know that run MS, so will I get to work? I'm not very good with engines :) Can I be bought as a complete system?

I do suspect that my distributor is not behaving the way it should. I'll try with an original to see what will happen.

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What will MS cost me? And what do I need? And last, but not least, I live in Norway, and there are no LR's as far as I know that run MS, so will I get to work? I'm not very good with engines :) Can I be bought as a complete system?

If you use the search button you will find everything you need - start with the thread in the tools & fabrication forum.

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I've read some of it already. Thanks :)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I will need something like this? This will give fuel and ignition?

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I had some leaking injectors and therefore I decided to change them all at once.

What will MS cost me? And what do I need? And last, but not least, I live in Norway, and there are no LR's as far as I know that run MS, so will I get to work? I'm not very good with engines :) Can I be bought as a complete system?

I do suspect that my distributor is not behaving the way it should. I'll try with an original to see what will happen.

Not quite true :rolleyes:

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I will need something like this? This will give fuel and ignition?

Something like that, yes, although you do need an EDIS8 unit, trigger wheel, etc. to go with it. Anyway, that's been covered numerous times so back on topic, how's the fault finding going?

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Thanks FridgeFreezer. If I go down the MS path, I think that starting with fuel control will be the best for me.

I do suspect that my distrubutor is giving me some problems. I've been reading about Mallory and trying to find info. I've found this . I've not changed the gear on my distributor. Could this give me ignition trouble?

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A very worn gear could give drifting timing but unlikely enough to cause the problems you're having. All I've ever heard about mallory dizzies is they have two sets of points so there's twice as much to go wrong :lol: it could be worth finding or borrowing a known working standard dizzy (and amplifier if appropriate, most would be electronic rather than points type) and see if it can be made to work with that.

Traco - for what it's worth I'm running an RP4 cam although it is in a 4.6 so not a useful reference :lol: it's supposedly not a very extreme cam to retain some low-down grunt, although I've since found out there are better candidates such as the stump-puller from Real Steel (who TBH I would chose over RPI any day of the week these days).

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BTW, I have some strange sounds coming from the Charcoal canister. What is the purpose of the Charcoal canister?

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Update:

I changed the gear the on my Mallory distributir yesterday, and it was different from my original. That is why I had to have some much BTDC to make the car run.

So I sat the timing to 4° BTDC, adjusted base idle, CO2 and lambda to the correct levels. The engine ran smoothly and was fairlu easy to start when it was warm.

So I took it for a test drive and it stopped running belove 800-900 rpm. I managed to start when I had full throttle.

This morning it was difficult to start and it stopped when I parked outside work.

I have a Piper RP4 camshaft, does it require more than 4°? Or do I have a fuel problem? Or other suggestions?

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Just for sanity reasons I would take 5 mins to check your TDC position "manually", use a small screwdriver or welding rod or similar through the spark plug hole in the head to feel the top of the cylinder and carefully rotate the crank until it's at it's highest position. Then check the marks on the pulley and see how they compare - I once had a pulley where the marks were 14 degrees out !

Another thing to check is that the keyway and pulley are sound, they can wear and allow the pulley to rotate on the crank causing all sorts of wierd timing problems that you wouldn't notice using a timing light.

4 degrees BTDC isn't enough advance BTW, unless you're using really bad petrol 6 degrees or more is normal. I don't think that a 2 degree difference is causing this problem though !

.

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As far I know the TDC has been checked and it was 2 degrees off :) So that I've been taking into considerations when adjusting the timing.

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Might be something wrong with the canister purge valve (like stuck open) so it allows fuel vapors to pass to the engine on idle or vehicle not moving (which it shouldn't do).

Try clamping the hose between the canister and the intake plenum if the hose is soft/flexible enough or disconnect the hose and block both sides (be careful what you use to block the intake plenum hole to prevent it being sucked in by the vacuum).

Do a test drive with the hose clamped/disconnected and see what happens.

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Yesterday I sat the ignintion to 36 degree and it ran ok for while. Then it stopped again :blink: ' It runs only in high rpm

I'm very close to give up and the sell the car in parts...

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No, I didn't have any clamps available. However, I get different errors depending on how I set the ignition.. Sometimes it runs ok on idle, sometimes on high rpms.. :unsure: Sometimes it starts when the engines is hot, sometimes not.

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I don't think the problem comes from how you set the ignition advance. I would set it how is supposed to be and leave it like that. If it runs ok from cold and in the next 5 mins (until the engine temp reaches 40-60 or so) then I wouldn't worry about that.

Edit:

You can make a clamp from 2 small pieces of wood/steel, drill holes at both ends and use some bolts to make the clamp or use tie wraps (cable ties).

You can block the holes when disconnecting the hose with a piece of wood (from a pencil, for example), just use a knife to make it the appropriate size and shape (a bit conical).

You don't really need professional clamps to do that :)

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Emailen Summit and asked them if they had any suggestions with regards to my distributor.

I received this answer:" Has this been converted to a carburetor? If this still has the EFI, you will not be able to make it run properly." :unsure:

So tomorrow I'll try with the an original one.

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That's the worst answer I've heard :lol: convert to carbs AND points to make it run properly rather than that nasty old EFI stuff :hysterical:

May as well cut holes in the floor and go Fred Flintstone style, cut out the technology altogether :lol:

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