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Diff Ratio


smo

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I'm pondering the ratios for my diffs in the d-lander....

She's pretty light by comparison to a 90

TD5 engine (mildly tuned)

4HP22 Autobox with compushift

1.410 Transfer box

37" Maxxis Creepys (to be joined with similar size simex/boggers)

Will the standard 3.54 diffs be ok or do i really need to consider 4.11/4.7's??

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I'm pondering the ratios for my diffs in the d-lander....

She's pretty light by comparison to a 90

TD5 engine (mildly tuned)

4HP22 Autobox with compushift

1.410 Transfer box

37" Maxxis Creepys (to be joined with similar size simex/boggers)

Will the standard 3.54 diffs be ok or do i really need to consider 4.11/4.7's??

Depends what you want from it. 3.54 will be ok'ish IMO but it won't do any favours for acceleration, probably mpg or crawling ability.

If you let me know the gear ratio's I've got a spread sheet to work out speeds, I'll post them up so you see the difference in gear options.

Personally if you have the £££ I'd say go for 4.75:1 with those tall tyres.

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I'm pondering the ratios for my diffs in the d-lander....

She's pretty light by comparison to a 90

TD5 engine (mildly tuned)

4HP22 Autobox with compushift

1.410 Transfer box

37" Maxxis Creepys (to be joined with similar size simex/boggers)

Will the standard 3.54 diffs be ok or do i really need to consider 4.11/4.7's??

I had a Td5 with a tuned ecu, R380 and a 1.410 t/box and a set of Dave Ashcroft 4.75 c/p and low range was just right on 37'' bogger's, high range was a little low for on the road but it did get of the mark well!! :o:lol:

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Autobox = speedy decents regardless of diff ratios!!

I would get an underdrive if you want to go downhill slowly with an auto!*

*Of course, where there is sufficient traction your brakes can help in this regard! :lol::lol:

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I tend to think that if you've raised the gearing at the wheels by fitting big tyres, you want to correct it as close to the wheels as possible so changing diff ratios puts everything upstream back into its happy place. Lower diff gearing means you can stick a high ratio T box in and have good cruise and a usefully low low box without having to buy an underdrive.

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Autobox = speedy decents regardless of diff ratios!!

Doesn't the Compushift allow you to manually lockup the TC irrespective of what gear it's in to give you some decent engine braking?

or is it a bit more complicated than that? or was I just dreaming? :unsure:

Colin

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I can't remember the exact details when I asked Dave Ashcroft about the compusihift and locking up, but I do remember that it wont help low range enging braking. I don't think it will lock up in 1st?

As I said, I can't remember so we'd better wait for Dave to come along and put me straight!

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I can't remember the exact details when I asked Dave Ashcroft about the compusihift and locking up, but I do remember that it wont help low range enging braking. I don't think it will lock up in 1st?

As I said, I can't remember so we'd better wait for Dave to come along and put me straight!

Yep, having looked at various websites (including Daves) it looks like it will not lock up in 1st (I guess you don't want it to stall if you have the TC locked up when you have to stop). I would have thought that 2nd Gear Low Box would give enough engine braking for most situations, even our old V8 RRC wouldn't completely run away with me in 2nd Low on fairly steep bits with the standard ZF4 (perhaps I wasn't trying hard enough ;) )

Hopefully Dave can confirm this, or let us know that none of us mere mortals know what we are talking about :blink:

Colin.

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smo,

Try the gearing calculator with a 1.66 t.box, underdrive and 3.54 diffs. It worked for me....... 4 distinct ratios in very useful places.

Yes, it does mean my propshafts see a little more loading than with lower ratio diffs BUT how often do you see a propshaft broken due to the loading on it and not due to contact with the terrain???

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