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200Tdi timing arangements


GBMUD

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I (think I) have all the bits to mend the Defender tomorrow morning but I do not have a manual. I remember the bit about the 10mm drill bit in the fuel pump pulley, I seem to remember marks for the cam pulley allignment, does that sound right?

I also know that there is a slot in the flywheel which is accessed through the bellhousing drain hole - where the wading plug fits - to set the crank timing correctly. I also remember someone saying that there are two slots in the flywheel - I need to find the right one. Is there any way of identifying which is which? Is it at TDC or 90degrees before/after? (I can find TDC from the crankshaft damper) Any top tips welcomed!

I also need to know how tight to set the belt tensioner. I have a torque wrench and a new belt so, anyone with a manual, what is the magic number please? I guess that a Defender may be different to a Discovery as there is no seperate idler, just the tensioner.

Is there a workshop manual online somewhere? I should look on Jim's site...

Thanks

Chris

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On the 300Tdi there's a couple of figures for the belt tension anyway, as they tried different things to stop them snapping. On ye olde 200s, I don't know the figure anyway.

When I timed my engine, I didn't bother locking the crank. With the keyway at the front at TDC there was an obvious mark visible on the flywheel from directly underneath, I just left the car in gear and rigourously checked it was still there before/after any tightening.

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On the crank sprocket there's a pip - this lines up with a pointer that's in the 12-o-clock position and is cast into the rear timing case. Same with the camshaft sprocket - there's a pip and it aligns in the same way with the same cast arrow in the 8-o-clock position. The injector pump mark is a bit variable, but the critical thing is that there's no slack in the timing belt on the right hand side run between the crank and cam. If you had a timing pin, then you would get the timing pretty-uch perfect, but again there's a pip on the injector pump sprocket that aligns with a cast arrow in the rear casing in the 3-o-clock position. Once the belt is set with the sprockets in their respective positions, tension it, then rotate the crank in a clockwise direction for 2-revolutions of the crank (this equates to one rotation of the cam and Injector pump sprockets. Re-check the belt tension/timing marks, and if all is ok, then you can momentarily start the engine with it in this condition. If it starts ok and ticks over, rev it quickly and hard, if it seems ok, then it's safe to put it all back together.

Les. :)

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On the 300Tdi there's a couple of figures for the belt tension anyway, as they tried different things to stop them snapping. On ye olde 200s, I don't know the figure anyway.

When I timed my engine, I didn't bother locking the crank. With the keyway at the front at TDC there was an obvious mark visible on the flywheel from directly underneath, I just left the car in gear and rigourously checked it was still there before/after any tightening.

Thanks John. Not much help to a 200Tdi owner with a snapped belt though. ;)

Thanks Les, that sounds like all the information I need other than the tension figures. Fingers crossed for the morning.

Chris

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Chris,

TDC is roughly marked on the crankshaft pulley to align with a cast mark on the front of the timing cover.

A good trick is to screw a reversing switch into the bellhousing plug. It is sprung and will 'click' into the slot marking TDC. It will hold the engine to a certain extent while you're doing the belt, but don't put too much torque through it.

Failing having a reversing switch (or if you don't want to take yours out) then a wading plug with a drilled hole matching the drill bit will work, but it won't be sprung and so finding the slot will be a two person job.

Good Luck!

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Use a 9.5mm drill shank to time the pump & use the 'Narrow' slot on the flywheel, it can be seen through the wading plug hole with the aid of a good torch, the crank damper has 'TDC' scribed into the casting line it up with the rib on the timing case @ 12 o'clock position :D

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Use a 9.5mm drill shank to time the pump & use the 'Narrow' slot on the flywheel, it can be seen through the wading plug hole with the aid of a good torch, the crank damper has 'TDC' scribed into the casting line it up with the rib on the timing case @ 12 o'clock position :D

12O'clock? More like about 1030 on mine Ralph. The keyway is then at the 12 O'clock position. Found the slot in the flywheel though.

Thanks all for your input and advice. ;)

Chris

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