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Worlds most infuriating vehicle


GBMUD

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I have the Freelander running again. (See Freelander forum) 1998 2.0 TD

[rant]Now there is a water leak. It only leaks when the engine gets hot, when it is cold there is no sign of a leak - it does not seem to be pressure related in particular and will leak with the pressure cap off. It is also quite a big leak - my thoughts are that it may be the water pump leaking although there is no evidence of water around what I can see of the pulley and no spray off the belt.

Leaks are fine - as long as you can see where they are coming from they can be mended easily as a rule. The trouble with this one is that I cannot see where the hell it is leaking from - in fact I can see F-all as Landrover have jammed all the ancilleries down the front of the block behind the radiator. I thought that removing the alternator would allow me to see the water pump but no, you cannot remove the alternator without first removing a PAS hose from the pump but you cannot get a spanner to that without getting the alternator or the engine out first. This has served to infuriate me somewhat.[/rant]

Apart from the desire to vent my fury what I am after is either advice or, better yet, a workshop manual for the Freelander 2.0l TD. I have engine overhall manuals but they seem to relate more to having the engine on a bench. I suspect that there is some way of removing the whole lot from the front of the engine and dropping it down out of the bottom but it would be nice to confirm that before I go ahead and skin my knuckles for no good reason.

Thanks

Chris - calming down now, perhaps a nice cup of tea will help.

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I think I have found the problem. Further toil and disassembly has revealed that the water pump is, in fact, driven off the back of the steering pump. I have managed to remove it with only one skinned knuckle and there is evidence that water has been escaping the pump and getting into the void behind where the drive dog lives - complicated arrangement. This void drains onto the top of the A/C pump which is where the water was dripping from.

There are a couple of smaller leaks in the radiator which I hope will be filled with some Bars leaks or similar. I have seen a product on the market which appears to contain mostly copper filings. I am a little worried about putting this into a cast iron engine with an alloy head and an ali radiator. Does anyone have any experience or views to offer?

Thanks.

Just the oil leak from the turbo oil return to sort out now. I have found it but I am not sure that mending it will be easy. :( Stand by for further rants. ;)

Chris

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Told Chris at the weekend to get rid of those oil burners and get a nice V8 Defender 90, my ears are still smarting......................................

Duplex chain - not a rubber band in sight, no injector pump, no turbo, no leaky - I'll get my coat like the others! :D:D:D:D:D

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Well. With the fitting of a new water pump (I need smaller hands!) and a home made gasket on the turbo oil return flange (I need longer arms) the Freelander is now almost driveable. Just a water leak from the radiator to fix now... Oh, and get the locking wheel nuts off somehow as I never inherited the key. :(

Chris

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Oh, and get the locking wheel nuts off somehow as I never inherited the key. :(

Had to do exactly the same to my wife's Clio. I found that the easiest way was to slightly sharpen a flat bladed screwdriver, then use it (with a lump hammer) to cut through the anti-tamper rings that seem to surround those things. When that was done, I could smack the right(ish) sized socket onto the nut, and finally release the nut. I suppose I could have got one of those things designed for the job, but I'm a northener, and therefore genetically tight.

Unfortunately, when I got around to the 4th wheel, the locking wheel nut seemed to have something sticking out of it. One little tap with a hammer, and off fell the locking wheel nut key. Arse. It had been there all along, and had stayed on the vehicle as my wife drove (and bumped up kerbs) for about 4000 miles. Amazing.

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Had to do exactly the same to my wife's Clio. I found that the easiest way was to slightly sharpen a flat bladed screwdriver, then use it (with a lump hammer) to cut through the anti-tamper rings that seem to surround those things. When that was done, I could smack the right(ish) sized socket onto the nut, and finally release the nut. I suppose I could have got one of those things designed for the job, but I'm a northener, and therefore genetically tight.

Unfortunately, when I got around to the 4th wheel, the locking wheel nut seemed to have something sticking out of it. One little tap with a hammer, and off fell the locking wheel nut key. Arse. It had been there all along, and had stayed on the vehicle as my wife drove (and bumped up kerbs) for about 4000 miles. Amazing.

Despite not being a nothener I hold similar values dear so I will try chiseling the nuts round first and if that will not work then hammering a socket on. If they should fail, only then will I go to the garage and risk spending money. :)

Chris

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