george09 Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 I'm trying to get the tie-bar that connects to the drop arm end joint separated from the joint and it ain't budging! I've hit it 7 ways to Tuesday with a hammer -- the rod seems to be stuck to the end joint threaded bolt. The last thing I want to do is damage the ball joint because I don't need the headache of changing the joint. All I want to do is change the TRE joint at the other side of the bar, and it would be much easier to do if I could get the bar off the drop arm end joint. Does anyone have any suggestions? Again, I really don't want to damage the drop arm end joint because I know it's a major hassle to change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 I prefer to replace a TRE with the opposite end still attached to the hub or whatever. You can put a length of tube on the threaded part of the TRE to apply leverage - They can be swines to undo/grip in a vice. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibex94 Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Hi George, I assume your talking about the steering drop link to track rod joint? The track side of the joint is manufactured with flats on it to facilitate the use of a puller. You just can't get enough weight behind a hammer in the right place to shock it off if well stuck. Make sure you get both ends of the track rod freed up on you won't get the tracking adjusted. Another job for the big hammer or gas axe make sure you use plenty of copper slip when you put it back together. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george09 Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Here's what I'm talking about (I swiped this image off the tech forum). The picture shows where I've been hitting it with my hammer. I've actually hit it all over, but it just won't pop off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cieranc Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 On commercials, hitting the cast arm alone will not free the joint. The trick is to have a bar levering the top (threaded part, stick the nut back on a few turns) of the balljoint down. With you swinging on the bar, and striking the arm at the same time you'll have better luck. It's a bit of a balancing act doing this on your own though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sas pinkie Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I have always found the best bet is too put a puller on it, wind it in till it takes up the strain, then give it a further wind, then hit it with the hammer as described above, then repeat the process. Never broken or damaged a joint yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Either buy a proper ball joint splitter from Halfords or your local motor factors, or if you're still intent on hitting it, use another hammer to brace the arm on the opposite side. That way all the force from the blows go into the arm and not just into knocking the joint sideways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howard14 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Either buy a proper ball joint splitter from Halfords or your local motor factors, or if you're still intent on hitting it, use another hammer to brace the arm on the opposite side. That way all the force from the blows go into the arm and not just into knocking the joint sideways. Ball joint splitter.... Best regards. Howard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 fork-type ball joint splitter, but it will trash the rubber boot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Some ball joint seperators are like biscuits,,, I have secured one which is made in China . Must admit, it has cracked many-a-ball-joints.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Put the nut back on (and make sure the other end of the drag link is still secured) and apply some lifting pressure with a jack under the arm, then give the bracket a tap as you have been doing already.....this method has never failed me. As mentioned above, apply a liberal coating of copper grease when putting back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george09 Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 I managed to get a joint splitter and that did the trick -- just barely -- it was really stuck. I thought the joint splitter would break first. A new, frustrating complication though: After getting the new TRE on the other end and attempting to screw on the nylon nut, I've discovered that the TRE threaded bolt is moving with the nut and not allowing me to tighten it. This is my first TRE replacement and I'm wondering if I have a faulty though new TRE -- it's a Lemford. Is there a trick to get the bolt to stop spinning? For such a simple job, this has turned into a major pain in the a**. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george09 Posted April 9, 2009 Author Share Posted April 9, 2009 Got it sorted in the end. Just wound the nut very slowly, an easy solution. I just initially panicked because I thought I had painstakenly installed faulty new TREs. Anyway, thanks to all for the advice. It's been educational. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Three methods that I have used to stop the thread spinning: 1/ Put the jack between the chassis and drag link and apply downward pressure so the taper sits firmly in the hole. 2/ Use an impact gun (air or battery powered) - possibly not an option at the drop-arm end... 3/ An elaborate system of levers and fulcrums to do the same as number 1... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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