Raumer Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Hi all, I've got a 110 fitted with a discovery 200 tdi engine. We had a problem a while ago in that the engine would not switch off. Had to stall it each time to make it stop. I fitted a new stop switch on the pump and all was well for a few weeks. Then the problem reappeared. Now with a new twist, turn the ignition off and the engine stays running, depress the brake pedal slightly and it then turns off! I've just spent a happy half hour trying to fix it - not helped by whoever wired it shouldn't be let near electrics ever again! In the end I tried a new wire from the stop switch and then piggy backed off a switched 12V source. Tried it and now it will start up, run, but when you turn the ignition off it stays running! Any ideas anybody?????? Thanks Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 a new wire from the stop switch and then piggy backed off a switched 12V source. Which switched 12V line, from where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 So even if you pull the wire off the pump it still stays running ? This will illiminate any electrical fault . Take out the solenoid and closely inspect the plunger and body for signs of swarf/metal fileings ,If there are some present it will mean the pump is breaking up and the swarf is jamming the solenoid open . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 I had that & the only fix is a injection pump rebuild or replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raumer Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share Posted June 15, 2009 Thanks for the replies. Should have made it bit clearer - if I pull the lead off the stop solenoid the engine stops. So the solenoid is working, it just must be getting a voltage from somewhere! For the switched supply I tried off the back of the ignition switch and then tried off the feed to the washer jet (note: this has been wired in to a separate switch by one of the previous owners!). Using this as a feed the engine only stops when I disconnect the wire or when I turned the washer jets on! I assume that the extra load from the washer jets is enough to kill it. HTH Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 could be a internal fault inside the start switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.9 Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 What a coincidence. My (non-Land Rover - a Rover 418 SLD) car started doing this last night! I can't be bothered to fix it because it's getting replaced soon. I was wondering if a relay somewhere is stuck. Funny you should mention the about applying the brakes to stop it too. I used to have a Maestro diesel van and that used to stop dead if it blew the fuse for the stop light circuit. It was a complete mystery the first time it did it, but every time it conked out thereafter I just put a new fuse in and off I went. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 Now with a new twist, turn the ignition off and the engine stays running, depress the brake pedal slightly and it then turns off! I recently had something similar, when plugged in an incorrectly wired trailer. The side lights were wired to the stop lights in the trailer. With the side lights on, the engine wouldn't turn off. So it seems that dodgy light electrics can supply 12 to the stop solenoid, so maybe start hunting around there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy_neutron Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 The battery earth is connected to the transfer box.. There is then a thinner wire around the passenger side engine mount that earths the body. If this is in poor condition then you will have a high resistance earth to all bodily functions. This may make some electrical items to backfeed to items that are wired to the engine ... like the stop solenoid. So i'd be checking the state of the body earth strap for a start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raumer Posted June 17, 2009 Author Share Posted June 17, 2009 Had another go at fixing it and trying out some of the suggestions. There is a heavy duty earth wire going from the chassis to the engine so that should eliminate that one. We have worked out that the pressing of the brake pedal worked by the brake lights coming on, putting the wipers on or the washers does the same thing. And just to double check we took the fuse out of the brake light circuit and then the brake pedal doesn't stop the engine! Tried taking out each of the fuses to see if we could track down the circuit that was supplying the voltage. No luck. We then tried running a wire straight from the battery via a switch to the stop solenoid. This worked! So at the moment I have just ordered a new ignition switch and if that doesn't work it will be time to trace the positive feed from the battery and see if we can find a fault along the way. Longer term we are going to rewire it as it is a mess! Thanks Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raumer Posted July 17, 2009 Author Share Posted July 17, 2009 It's taken a while but I got some new parts and tried a few of the options. New ignition switch - nothing Horrible wiring mess in dash - lots of temporary tidying, nothing New alternator (second time round!) - nothing New small wire to alternator - nothing Part of the wiring mess was 8 wires stripped and twisted together and then taped together! This has temporarily been replaced by a choc block. One of the wires from here goes to the alternator and if you disconnect this it behaves perfectly. Tracking bits of it tonight has left me very confused! I'll try a brief description of what we have found. The choc block is feed by a wire from the ignition, ignition on and it has power. One wire from here goes through a 100 ohm fuse and then splits in two. One wire going to the alternator and one (a brown and yellow one) goes onto the dash panel. There is then also an ammeter, this has one wire going to earth and the other wire going to the choc block. Now for the questions! Where should the wire from the alternator go? Does it need to go through a resistor? There are a couple of electrical connections on the back of the alternator, one being a little black box with a grey and white wire coming off it and going nowhere. I assume that this is the wire for a rev counter, is this correct? Any help much appreciated! Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 the thinner brown/yellow wire from the alternator should go to the charge [battery icon] warning light on the warning light panel, if it's not connected the system will not operate correctly. little black box is a suppresor & it's wire should be connected to the alternator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raumer Posted July 18, 2009 Author Share Posted July 18, 2009 Yipee, it now switches off! Took out the extra wire with a resistor on it and it worked perfectly! Did a quick check to see if all the lights were working and ...... 2 hours later and lots of rewiring and finding lots of bodges the lights all work as well! Many thanks for everyones suggestions and information. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 18, 2009 Share Posted July 18, 2009 glad you git it sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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