santalars Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 After a coulple of longer trips some issues with oil leaks arised. The first one was from the oil filter which has unsrewed itself. This was not too hard to sort out. Another one is strangely appearing from somewhere between the gearbox and the transfer box (see photo) Does anybody have an idea where this might be leaking from? The third one is a leak from the rear differential which, I'm sure is the diff pinion oil seal. Thanks to Les' latest write up it will be walk in the park to replace it. However, I think I will have to reset the diff. When lifting one rear wheel off the ground and hand break applied I can spin it in one direction and sometimes in both with a clickering noise. After some playing it usually locks then (mostly) at least in one direction. I think that can't be right. Is the rear diff gone or does it just need reset??? Is that an easy job to do in the yard, and are there any special tools needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 I think the second leak could be one of three things. 1. gearbox output seal 2. transfer box input seal 3. there is an O ring on the end of the intermediate shaft that is prone to wear and leaking - IIRC you can see the attachment of end of the intermediate shaft in the body of the TXB casing - a black ring with a hex head shaped hole in it. The O rings go and with wear, the actual hole in the TXB case can elongate so that the ring no longer seals. Mine leaks from here but it is really slight - when it goes completely i shall replace the box. Is the fluid ATF or EP90? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 Is the fluid ATF or EP90? Thanks for the reply. Both have been blended with Tungstendisulfide so there's no way to destinguish any more. However, at the end this means that both boxes would have to come out and separated in order to fix it. (?) Any thougts about the rear diff problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wunntenn Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Check the bolt I've arrowed - it goes right through into the transfer box and on mine a stripped thread allowed it to weep considerable amounts of oil before I tracked it down. I pulled the bolt, cleaned out the threads with carb cleaner and turned it back in with a load of silicone gasket and its been fine since. Worth checking before you start pulling boxes out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Looks like leaking EP90 so its leaking transfer box input seal. Mine does the same not a major leak just a few drips. Search the forum on how to move the transfer box back on long lengths of studding to get at seal without removing transfer box completely. Or do what I do and live with it for now and check the transfer oil level every 6 months. Your diff leak may actually be the gearbox oil being thrown back in the slipstream under the vehicle and hitting the bottom of the diff. Mine does that too.. Clean it all off and look closely for any oil actually coming from the diff seal itself. If that is dry then its the transfer oil being thrown back. You probably have oil spots on your rear door too - that's the drips in the slip stream too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 After a coulple of longer trips some issues with oil leaks arised.The first one was from the oil filter which has unsrewed itself. This was not too hard to sort out. Another one is strangely appearing from somewhere between the gearbox and the transfer box (see photo) Does anybody have an idea where this might be leaking from? The third one is a leak from the rear differential which, I'm sure is the diff pinion oil seal. Thanks to Les' latest write up it will be walk in the park to replace it. However, I think I will have to reset the diff. When lifting one rear wheel off the ground and hand break applied I can spin it in one direction and sometimes in both with a clickering noise. After some playing it usually locks then (mostly) at least in one direction. I think that can't be right. Is the rear diff gone or does it just need reset??? Is that an easy job to do in the yard, and are there any special tools needed? What engine and what filter, if V8 might need more than just tightening! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 Thanks for your replies so far. It's a 300 Tdi 90 1996. I will investigate the source of the gearbox/ transfer baox leak a bit closer over the weekend. Any thougths about the rear differential. After having a look on how the reset is getting done and finding out that this is not an easy job and also after checking prices for replacements of the whole diff I tink I will just change the seal and replace the diff when required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Harry Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Latest issue of LROI has an advert for a replacement LT230 tx box cover, which claims to improve sealing, among other benefits www.rockymountainspares.co.uk Anyone able to verify this? Would replacing the standard gasket as part of the oil change help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 don't waste your time, a decent gasket properly fitted is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jai_landrover Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 From your explaination you can turn a wheel with hand brake applied, clicking somtimes back and forth somtimes only forwards etc it sounds like you have a detroit locker fitted to the diff. This will somtimes make funny bangs (lockup) on the road if you are exiting a corner sharpish or loose traction on one wheel it will make a noise and transfer the drive to the slowest wheel. It will also feel a bit weird to drive on the road. Does it sound like its ratcheting around when you spin one wheel when jacked up and hand brake is applied? Do you have to give it a bit of effort to get it to ratchet or click around? Sorry loads of questions it may just be a fooked diff but you may be lucky and have a locker fitted. Jai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted July 4, 2009 Author Share Posted July 4, 2009 Yop, that's approzimately exactly how it is. The guy who sold it mentioned something about a difflock, but I didn't believe so far. Thougth he probably ment the TX box standard lock. Would be very happy if that would be the case Does "It will also feel a bit weird to drive on the road." mean that you can feel tendencies turning in the one or the other direction when either accelerating "hard" or suddenly taking the foot off the pedal. That would explain many mysteries at once. Thanks jai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 I have a similar problem developing with my transfer, I changed the front output seal thinking that was knackered and fitted a new flange at the same time (both genuine parts). the nose the transfer has now dried up, but i still have a large amount of oil leaking from somewhere on the box. could the seal have failed between gearbox and transfer? is it the bolt problem listed above? (I haven't touched it!) At a bit of a loss as to what the problem is. The transfer also appears to be oily around the top but it's not excessive help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 Well, I'm constantly loosing some drops when driving or shortly after, but nothing when it's standing for longer. Yes, I would agree to that it appears to come somewhere from the top. However, I couldn't make out from where yet. I've checked the oil levels and they are totally fine. Not any loss. So now I'm really thinking that this are actually tears (or it's producing oil). It also appears that one of the oil driplets on the yard looks somewhat like a Series I. Time to call the Pope??? Actually I start thinking that we all have so much work with the Defenders because we are constantly on the search, getting nervous about any slight vibration and fixing things totally premature. My intention now is to get the rear drivetrain fixed and then drive it until something breaks. We will see how I could handle my addiction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 it's defiently EP because: A) it's not red B) it smells and tastes like EP Breather was my only other thought? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 However, I think I will have to reset the diff. When lifting one rear wheel off the ground and hand break applied I can spin it in one direction and sometimes in both with a clickering noise. After some playing it usually locks then (mostly) at least in one direction. I think that can't be right open diffs do this as well as locked/lsd diffs i'm afraid. However you do say that it eventually locks when playing it back and forward, so could be a trutrac. With one wheel on the ground and the handbrake on, the wheel in the air will only rotate as far as the backlash in the diff will allow. The greater the wear and backlash, the more the wheel will rotate before coming to a stop. add to this wear in the splines on the shafts at the diff AND the drive member ends and you can end up with what looks to be ALOT of play. Personally i wouldnt change the diff just yet. Pull the shafts out and check the condition of the splines and the drive members. 5 minute job. If they are worn then replace. If not, then how much rotation can you actually get from one wheel in the above scenario? 12oclock to 2 oclock? or more? If its the former, then thats fineand pretty standard. If its more ignore it until a) something goes bang b) starts to whine and make a right racket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 Nick, I have to do the prop as well ( bad vibrations). So I have decided to take everyting apart and have a close look and replace as required. I usually do long trips and I would like to avoid a limp home. Thanks very much for giving me an indication of "normal play". Very helpful. I will consinder this during the investigation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 if anyone reading this has a similar problem I have found that the selector units ontop of the gearbox have worked loose. I've refitted mine with good quality instand gasket and threadlock on the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted July 28, 2009 Author Share Posted July 28, 2009 Eventually I had time to care for all this over the weekend. As I couldn't notice any loss of gearbox oil and it's back to very occasional drops I havn't dealt with the gearbox leak. However the tip with the selector box makes perfekt sense as it appears to come from the top. Took the diff appart and yes, there is a detriot locker installed. There is some play in the locker and that's all. No play in the diff itself (crownwheel/pinion). So I decided to leave it as it is as most say that the detriot lockers are undestructible. Everything else was totally fine. I replaced the leaking pinion seal. And I found that the propshaft was somehow sized. now way in pulling the both halfs apart. It had play anyway and it vibrated as well. So it came out and a new one (wide angle with longer extendability for lifted vehicles) came in. I previously spotted that one of the rear trailing arms was only kept in place by 5mm thread in the top nut. The previous owner set it up this way with washers in front of the rear bush. (never will find out why) Due to the lift I installed new cranked trailing arms which are now proper and safe. I went with the cheap ones from paddocks. It turned out that they came from Germany. I can tell you these jokes are undestructable. (...but more than double the weight of the originals ) Having that done it turned out that the 90 is now driving in a straight line and behaves significantly better on the road. Due to the wrong set up of the old arms the axle was misaligned by approx 10mm. Amazing how much difference this can make. This has sorted all steering problems. So if you experience steering problems and you have dealt with all possibilities at the front axle, check your rear axle as well!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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