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kunnifer or copper brakes


matt barker

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Hi all

I'm a reasonably new “landroverist”, but I 've been into 4x4s and off-roading for a while now with my grand cherokee my off road baby

However todays question is more about my 200tdi disco, all the brake pipes are looking a bit rough so I'm gona replace the whole lot, I've done this before on my Jeep when I re-plumbed it to do away with the pesky ABS, as I'm sure everyone's aware bending cutting and flaring pipes is a monster PITA, and I never want to do it again! On rimmer bros I found a complete set of ready made pipes (so no flaring measuring or cutting or finding correct connections)

but its made of copper, ive always been under the impression this can be bad sue to work hardening, and have thus used kunnifer pipes

what are other peoples experiences of copper, have you had any issues or used one of these kits etc. any advice much appreciated.

cheers matt barker

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Its a big like Marge or Butter, Strawberry or Rasberry jam, Bitter or Mild, whatevers in the cupboard is what goes on mine, does it matter?????

i don't know, technically plain copper has a lower burst pressure, and is more affected by work hardening than kunnifer and I would assume that with it been softer it could be more likely to fail around the flares.

However I just wanted to get some real world examples before I go and fit it and end up sitting in a 2 tonne lump of rust heading towards the back of a bus with no stoppers!

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I use both - whatever they have in stock at the time really. Copper does work harden, but if the pipe is fitted/supported correctly, then I can't see a problem with it. I've never known copper pipe to fracture, and I guess the safety guys don't think it's a risk, which is why it's safety marked.

Les.

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As said its chalk and cheese. I use copper and have been saved and troubled by it. I was saved when something got caught in it and it pulled in a very very very large loop away from the rear axle but did not break and finnished the day. At the last event i snapped a front pipe where it had work hardened next to the front caliper. This was my own fault completely as i had noticed it going hard where i had removed the caliper various times for maintenance and had it down for replacement but for some reason unknown to me i never got around to it :ph34r:

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If your removing the caliper a lot then you could turn the holes in the braketholding the flexible hoses to the CV housing into slots. Then you just slacken the locking nuts and the caliper with brake pipes can be lifted ouf without bending any pipes or disconnecting brake lines.

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Thanks for all the responses guys, its all much appreciated, taking all the information into account I’ve decided to make my own kunnifer pipes, I just don’t want to risk it especially as doing some long drives into Europe and beyond soon and I will save about £50 – £60 off pre made ones (I’ll just rope at mate in to help undo the seized nuts and flare the flares!)

So my next question what size brake unions and nipples do I need to order, and are they the ones with a shoulder or without a shoulder.

Makes sense to check first as apposed to ripping it apart then catching the bus to the parts store!

Cheers all

Matt B

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