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Toyota Hypoid Diff / 30 Spline / Longfield CVs


Astro_Al

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Rear Prop angles can be a problem with a large lift.. The Housing should be rotated and a Double cardan Driveshaft installed if you are that high..

The front is High pinion and is the slickest fit in a coiler...

I don't think I need to say more as the benefits of these diffs have all been mentioned here already, but if anyone is interested I can provide a condensed version of the PBB links as we send out as intructions with out kits.. E Mail keith@rovertracks.com

One added benefit to us guys in the States is cost.. With a little elbow grease A guy can lock up his diffs with selectable lockers and add som mighty tough halfshafts with excellent CV'S for under $5000 US... Certainly you can come close with ARB and MD stuff but the diff will now be the weak point and considering most the guys that would like this kit run 35" or bigger tires low gears are a must... 4.75.1 Rover with a tiny pinion gear or a 4.88 Toy with some size to it..

Thanks

Keith

www.rovertracks.com

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Kieth any tech info is very worthwhile and welcome.

to sort gearing I use the Ashcroft Crawler

as I run 33" and 35" tyres this set up gives me the best of all worlds.

The toy conversion looks appealing, to someone starting from scratch

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Yeah I guess I'll start a build thread in the Member's Vehicles section. I'm not sure it qualifies to be here any more - I'm racking my brain thinking of a Rover part still in the build... ;)

Does that mean you're actually going to BUILD something, Al? :P

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Does that mean you're actually going to BUILD something, Al? :P

Ooh! That hurt! :D:P:D

Hell yeah - the race is on. I've got 18 months before the garage becomes someone elses, and a complete build to do from scratch...

Good question though! I guess I'll start the thread after my holiday in April, when I will finally get to DO something.

Why Oh Why did I pick the only city on the planet with no garages... :(

Al.

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Rover crownwheel and pinion are spiral bevel. The pinion centreline is same height as the c/l of the crownwheel.

With hypoid gears, the c/l of the pinion is lower (or higher) than the c/l of the crownwheel. The helix of the teeth is much more pronounced than for spiral bevels.

Hypoid gears are much stronger than the equivalent size spiral bevels. Frictional losses are a little greater, but none notice this.

Am I right in assuming there is a downside to the hypoids?

The rear diff pinion is lower than rover, so if you run a lifted defender the propshaft angles start to get very steep.

A couple of options are to use a front diff in the back (not good since the diff is running backwards) or to fiddle with the angle of the rear diff (messy plus will induce prop vibrations) - this is detailed in one of the links in Al's original post.

This would be less of an issue with longer wheelbases of course.

Your assumtions are correct. It may be a problem with a short wheelbase - this conversion is mostly done to rangies or discos here in Aus and I have not heard of anyone unhappy with the conversions.

The front diff needs to be high pinion to clear the track rod. MacNamara, make their own diff housing to clear the track rod with the toy gears.

I would never use a toy high pinion in the rear. They are not strong enough, when driving on the wrong side of the teeth. The Nissan high pinion H233 has proven good enough in the rear of a comp rangie, but they won't fit the rover axle housing.

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I don't know if this is mentioned in any of those linked posts.

Toy diffs use crush sleeves between the pinion bearings. This is a problem with the front diff if reversing under load. Although it is more work setting the pinion bearing preload, it is best to replace the crush sleeve with a solid sleeve.

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DiscoDino

had some severe prop angles on his IIRC

Tony is right, although it was not due to the lift I have which is around 2-3" on a 100" wheelbase...

It was due to the lower links I made which were 4cm longer than usual. This has been rectified with a Rover Tym upper ball joint extension of 2" so the angle is sweet.

Bottom line, if you don't want to go portal (I have some reserves for portals), your best bet is the Toy conversion, and in my opinion, the ONLY spare you will need, shoulf the set-up be great, would be a spare CV that costs 205$...that's if you use it...

The R&P are cheaper, the Axles won't even snap, its just a better set-up...

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Bottom line, if you don't want to go portal (I have some reserves for portals), your best bet is the Toy conversion, and in my opinion, the ONLY spare you will need, shoulf the set-up be great, would be a spare CV that costs 205$...that's if you use it...

I was about to say this...

I speak from my point of view,

living in Italy doesn't allow to fit portals or other exotic conversions

unless you have a trailer and a dedicated truck to pull it

(a mate made it but that's a different story).

My choice,as an "average" user (with at least 1 forum winch challenge in mind,hello Nige)

was the Rover/Toy hybrid axle;

max strenght under a stock skin,

no hassle with MoT (crossed fingers),

no hassle with props/too high cog

practical

What else...oh,something a bit different (here at least).

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