GT6Steve Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 I started today intending to replace rod bearings on an 81 Corvette. My daily driver had a major carbie failure on a Thursday and I limped it home 23 miles. After the repair I heard a rod knock so immediately had the oil change but too late. #8 bearing had perished. After dropping the pan I determined the crank was sound so I bought new rod bearings but alas, the rod cap seems to be ovalled. SO, full speed ahead on the RV8. Today we went from bare block to shortblock in the car. I had to leave the heads off to access the horrid trans/block bolts. A sixteenth turn at a time they are finally pulled up tight. Tomorrow I'll do the heads and intake. This'll have a new Crower cam and lifters with new rings and bearings so it should run a lot better than the flat cam that was in there. I'm tired and sore tonight but pleased with the progress. It rained in Vegas today and the Rover got wet so that's kinda in the spirit of what you guys do, Huh???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 Rain in Nevada? Did you have to go onto Google to find out what it was. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vougese39 Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 what spec crowler cam have you gone for and is it with standard followers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted August 23, 2009 Author Share Posted August 23, 2009 what spec crowler cam have you gone for and is it with standard followers? The cam is a Crower 258HDP with Crower lifters. The quoted duration is 258 and 260 (E) with a .269 and .278(E) lift. Purported to be one level above stock. The lifters are speced by Crower so hopefully they'll suffice. Opinions Please? During the night I lay awake reviewing everything I'd done. All seemed OK until I got to the starter gear plate. Hmmm, which way did I install it?? I was deeply suspicious that I'd installed it backwards! Sure enough, it's wrong and the engine has to come back out to flip it! AARRRGGH. At least I thought of it before the heads go on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 That should be OK …………. The rockers are a 1.6 lift ratio so that gives a total valve lift of 0.430 % 0.444 (E) ………………. Once you get to about 0.450 then you will need to have 0.1 machined off the guides and TLR50 springs to stop spring bind (less coils) Use a better quality timing chain set as the Rover part is made of chocolate and is prone to stretch in only a few thousand miles ………. I would recommend a cloyes true roller set and fitted at zero degrees (the cloyes has the ability to set the cam at +/- 4 degrees). Although Crower lifters are good…… I prefer Rhoads bleed down lifters. Set the lifter preload to about 60 thou …………..I suspect you may need rocker post shims if you are using standard push rods. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share Posted September 11, 2009 I had a vacation day today so got back into the Rangie. I had to take the short block back out because I put the torque converter plate on backwards. Doh!! At least I found it at 2:00 AM in bed instead of when trying to bolt it up! Experience paid off so I had the short block in and out in about two hours. Short block, do you guys use that term? So now it's all tight below and I'm putting the heads back on. Sprayed the shim gaskets thoroughly with CopperCote but I'm still a bit at sea with the four bottom bolts on each head. I've read to leave them out completely, to torque them to less than spec and to torque to spec. I thought I'd skip this aggro with composite gaskets but here we go... Tomorrow may be enough time to finish it up. The dogs are excitedly waiting for it since they can't both go out in the old Corvette! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 Sprayed the shim gaskets thoroughly with CopperCote but I'm still a bit at sea with the four bottom bolts on each head. I've read to leave them out completely, to torque them to less than spec and to torque to spec. I thought I'd skip this aggro with composite gaskets but here we go... Tomorrow may be enough time to finish it up. Regardless of what gaskets you are using .............. do not torque up the bottom (3rd row) of head bolts. Either leave them out or just use them as hole fillers. If you torque them up as per the spec then it tends to pull the head over a little and eventually cause blowing into the valley. Later engines do not have thios row of bolts ............... It would have been better to use composite gaskets ............ coppercote is not require on the tin gaskets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted September 12, 2009 Author Share Posted September 12, 2009 It would have been better to use composite gaskets ............ coppercote is not require on the tin gaskets Ya know, I'm the first to admit that I'm not paying enough attention sometimes BUT, wouldn't ya think a full engine rebuild gasket set would come with exhaust gaskets? Apparently not as I'm now awaiting delivery of said gaskets. GRRRR Oh, the composite gaskets would've just killed the already low CR on this thing. 8.3 I think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Ya know, I'm the first to admit that I'm not paying enough attention sometimes BUT, wouldn't ya think a full engine rebuild gasket set would come with exhaust gaskets? Apparently not as I'm now awaiting delivery of said gaskets. GRRRR Oh, the composite gaskets would've just killed the already low CR on this thing. 8.3 I think? Using a composite would have lowered the CR by approx 0.6:1, however, having the heads skimmed by 20 thou would bring it back to normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 Using a composite would have lowered the CR by approx 0.6:1, however, having the heads skimmed by 20 thou would bring it back to normal. 0.6 was about what I calculated as well. I didn't want to get into any issues with the intake manifold fitting after a skim so I just used the tin gaskets I had. If the damned things go again I will certainly do the skim and use the composites. Now to be fair, the only time I've ever lost them is the two times the thing overheated in the harsh Mojave desert summer heat. And both times the overheating came from the plastic header tank splitting and depressurizing the system. Now I have a sturdy brass tank and shouldn't have that issue again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 You'd have to skim a load more than this to have bolt clearance issues And Mr BBC is spot on with the clacs as always Just pray you heads haven't been previous skimmed 3 x already Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 You'd have to skim a load more than this to have bolt clearance issues Nige Thank You Nige for that valuable data point. I've never built one of these before so this forum's expertise is precious. Thank you all for the inputs so far. I'm anxiously watching for the postman at the moment as my gaskets may be there. Filling the time tweaking on the GT6 racer. Now if ya want to build a fast Triumph, I CAN help there. Somehow that doesn't seem to fit in with the mud and rivers you guys specialize in Edit: BUT look at my Avatar, I have done a lot of offroading! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Filling the time tweaking on the GT6 racer. Now if ya want to build a fast Triumph, I CAN help there. Somehow that doesn't seem to fit in with the mud and rivers you guys specialize in Edit: BUT look at my Avatar, I have done a lot of offroading! No - I had a GT6 once! Sadly most of them have now rusted into a small pile of brown flakes. (You might have to google rust as well!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 FWIW Mates Race V8 Rover had 60 thou off each head the bolts to the manifold are now "a Cosy" fit, as he puts it Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 .......GT6 racer.....Somehow that doesn't seem to fit in with the mud and rivers you guys specialize in Boys toys don't all have to be of the same type. My toys Dakar 4x4 Ultima GTR Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 WOOHOO! a pretty damn smooth startup this afternoon! I had to reverse the dizzy and then it fired happily. Remarkably well I must say. Rings are blowing by forcing oil out of the dipstick. I saw a drip on the right side to explore but all seems good so far. Had the lovely bride hold the throttle at 2000 (sort of) whilst I watched and nothing alarminfg appeared. This rebuild may be worthy of jumping the curbs at the local casinos. ;_)) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easytiger Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Boys toys don't all have to be of the same type. My toys Dakar 4x4 Ultima GTR Steve quite agree My 85 RR classic has 5 Triumphs for company including a mk3 GT6 and 2 TR7s Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 quite agree My 85 RR classic has 5 Triumphs for company including a mk3 GT6 and 2 TR7s Mark We drove it all around today with the hellhounds barking every moment. They're much happier than I to have their car back. I used it early on to move the race trailer around for cleaning and loading for the next race. It is really impressive after driving it for who knows how long with the bad cam. It starts and runs sweetly, pulls off the corners well and just generally seems happy. I haven't set the timing yet. I twist the dizzy looking for the sweet spot and pretty soon the engine follows. I assume the computer is compensating? I'll have to get the book out and find how to get the midpoint for the timing. At the mo I'm pretty damned happy with the rebuild. Many thanx for all the expert advice offered on this forum! Next time I see a river or mudbog, who know's?? I'm gonna drive around it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 Well Hell! It was running great all weekend. I thought I'd be bold and try to take it to work on Tuesday morning. A 23 mile high speed motorway commute which would help seat the rings. I got about two miles from the house and it died at a stoplight. 5:00 AM it's not too terrible but still a nuisance. After awhile it started so I beat feet back for home and made it to the closed front gate where it died again. I opened the gate, started and lurched thru when it died and has not yet restarted to this time. ARE THESE GREAT CARS OR WHAT? The poor ol' girl had the honour to not be seen on the streets as a nonrunner. Go figure. (heretofore, it's always broken down in front of the Pub)?? So now I've gotta see if it's getting any spark, as it acts lacking or if there's an injector issue. I'm also suspicious of grounds (earth) as I had two flat leads left over with no idea where they go. Life's always an adventure Eh? BTW, We're going racing next weekend so this may fall to the backburner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 My money is on fuel supply... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Well Hell! It was running great all weekend. I thought I'd be bold and try to take it to work on Tuesday morning. A 23 mile high speed motorway commute which would help seat the rings. I got about two miles from the house and it died at a stoplight. 5:00 AM it's not too terrible but still a nuisance. After awhile it started so I beat feet back for home and made it to the closed front gate where it died again. I opened the gate, started and lurched thru when it died and has not yet restarted to this time. ARE THESE GREAT CARS OR WHAT? The poor ol' girl had the honour to not be seen on the streets as a nonrunner. Go figure. (heretofore, it's always broken down in front of the Pub)?? So now I've gotta see if it's getting any spark, as it acts lacking or if there's an injector issue. I'm also suspicious of grounds (earth) as I had two flat leads left over with no idea where they go. Life's always an adventure Eh? BTW, We're going racing next weekend so this may fall to the backburner... If it cuts dead with no hesitation and poor running prior to the cut then I would suspect the ignition amp…………… especially if it has the 35DLM Dizzy with the amp bolted to the side. Another good sign is that with this fault is that engine will often restart once the amp has cooled down. These are notorious for heat related faults and I always used to carry a spare. The early 2 pin version of the amp is the worst…………. The later 3 pin version is not quite as fault prone but it still does happen…………. They are not particularly expensive … abut £35 in the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iomlt Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 If it cuts dead with no hesitation and poor running prior to the cut then I would suspect the ignition amp…………… especially if it has the 35DLM Dizzy with the amp bolted to the side. Another good sign is that with this fault is that engine will often restart once the amp has cooled down. These are notorious for heat related faults and I always used to carry a spare. The early 2 pin version of the amp is the worst…………. The later 3 pin version is not quite as fault prone but it still does happen…………. They are not particularly expensive … abut £35 in the UK. I had this problem, i ran a seperate negative from one of the bots and that "seemed" to help...... but make sure your MAIN engine negative is in good shape or your new little negitive gets erm "hot" lol al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 I had this problem, i ran a seperate negative from one of the bots and that "seemed" to help...... but make sure your MAIN engine negative is in good shape or your new little negitive gets erm "hot" lol al Thanx guys, first thing in the morning I'll be on it. It was such a sudden cut and recovery I support the notion that it's ignition, or want of. I've also noticed the only earths I have are the cluster of small black wires on the left side head. Offside right? I'll get a ground, earth, going and then have a look at the distributor module after I confirm a lack of spark. Or not. twelve hours from now we'll move forward. Really appreciate you all pitchin' in to help a Rover that won't be in any damn rivers ;-)) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 Appears to be the module as predicted. When cranking the voltage comes up to about .4 volts. I'd expect more... New one is on order with a two wire to three wire adapter link. Apparently the two wire modules are NLA. Cost is $150 so about 80 quid? Adapter cable cost near as much as the module Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 .......Cost is $150 so about 80 quid? Adapter cable cost near as much as the module Ouch... I have one laying on the floor in my garage. I'm not helping am I? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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