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Brakes / Swivels


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Hello All,

Right I've got lots of questions about brakes and swivels on my Defender 90 300 TDI so I thought who better to ask than a bunch of experts, so in no particular order here we go:

1. If I use my truck off road in heavy mud is fitting vented discs a bad idea? I use my truck for towing and it has 35" tires so I though that vented might be a beneficial upgrade but what I'm worried about is the discs filling with mud, not being easy to clean and then causing more problems......is this likely should I stick with solid one's. Interested to hear your views.

2. Swivel gaitors - Are these a good idea? I thought they were but having stripped a swivel to reseal it I found a tiny hole that has been letting mud into the swivel, although not really bad it does appear that this has caused the swivel to rust slightly and get pitted. I suppose my question is has this caused a bigger problem than if they had not been fitted?

3. Is there any difference between the swivels that are black/grey in colour and the chrome shiny one's....and where is the best place to buy? Should I replace both sides at the same time?

Nearly there now.....

4. Upon removing the plasticy rubber cover on the front drive member the circlip was bent although it had tried to pull it into the hub.......now this just doesn't seem normal to me but I'm struggling with why this has happened. There was a spacer fitted after the circlip that is about a centimetre wide (Roughly) but I'm wondering if there should be more? I'm assuming the shaft should be able to slide in and out and not be solid? Any help on this one would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Pete

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4. Upon removing the plasticy rubber cover on the front drive member the circlip was bent although it had tried to pull it into the hub.......now this just doesn't seem normal to me but I'm struggling with why this has happened. There was a spacer fitted after the circlip that is about a centimetre wide (Roughly) but I'm wondering if there should be more? I'm assuming the shaft should be able to slide in and out and not be solid? Any help on this one would be appreciated.

I can do this one, please sir, please!

Answer, no, it shouldn't move in and out. LR sell some fabulously expensive shims to get rid of the movement. When you say a centimetre "wide", you don't mean "thick" do you? 'cos 1 cm would be a new record: I found one corner with 3 mm on it, but it needed a new halfshaft and driving flange as it was passing oil like a middle eastern pipeline.

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Swivels grey in colour are teflon coated

no need to change both

vented brakes on a offroading car in mud are a waste of time IMHO

swivel gaiters are rubbish as if any crud gets it it can't get out

again on an offroader then get torn off anyway

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I had vented discs on the RR (they come like that :rolleyes:)

Yes they fill with mud, but once back on road the mud dries, shrinks, and gets thrown out. (Mostly;)). Never had a problem with them.

Having said that, I would only upgrade to vented if you experience brake fade often with the type of driving / towing you do. Don't forget that vented discs means either changing your calipers or splitting them to put spacers in......

Good quality pads and discs make all the difference to your braking system, oh and fesh fluid too....

Gaiters - personally, I like to be able to visually inspect the area. A gaiter will never keep everything out, and once it gets in.........:blink:

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I can do this one, please sir, please!

Answer, no, it shouldn't move in and out. LR sell some fabulously expensive shims to get rid of the movement. When you say a centimetre "wide", you don't mean "thick" do you? 'cos 1 cm would be a new record: I found one corner with 3 mm on it, but it needed a new halfshaft and driving flange as it was passing oil like a middle eastern pipeline.

There should be a certain amount of end float, stipulated in the manual. End of shaft has a tapped hole so you can insert a bolt to move the shaft so you can measure end-float

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There should be a certain amount of end float, stipulated in the manual. End of shaft has a tapped hole so you can insert a bolt to move the shaft so you can measure end-float

0.127 to 0.254 mm on the front and zero on the back (actually none specified, but it might as well be zero) - a bit less than 3mm :D

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