CountryGent Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Ok, whilst I am waiting for my nice mate to finish the welding (he ran out of gas and then what a mare to get his bottle refilled! - any one know why it's now so compicated to get gas? As an aside..) I am also starting to look at the fact that my rear shocks have seen better days. Now with the fact that I am putting the 200TDi into the 110 I am thinking that I might have to bite the bullet and replace the fronts as well. Nothing strange so far I know but bear with me. I am not after getting in and out the 110 on stilts and it won't be used in CCV trials but it will be used to carry and tow heavy items, go off roading, may be the odd camping expedition. What I am after is axle articaulation (or so I think at the moment ). One of the reasons I don't won't to start lifting (well any more that is absolutely necessary) is having to buy, adjust all the related parts to make the lift worth while. Whilst I would like to be in the position where I could afford the option of OME all round but I am on a more modest budget. So I have looked round and have come up with the following: Bearmach HD Blue springs for front and rear coupled with Procomp shocks (BR0645P and BR 1077P) Is this a good match/combo? The Bearmach site says that they have a 0 - 25 mm extension - what does that relate to? Is extra height/lift? Any ideas suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Refreshing change to see people not going for a lift. Actually do you need more articulation? The defenders are pretty much class-leading in that respect so unless you are into aggressive stuff I would stick to original spec kit, cheaper too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 First stop has to be Trev's spring calculator as found in the tech archive, surely? Work out what you want to achieve and work backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 I fitted Bearmach HD blues to my 110, was expecting to retain standard height but got around a one and a half inch lift! The springs have been fine but the top mounts of the rear shockss keep wearing. Just about to fit some Gwyn Lewis kit with pin top mounts on the rear amongst other bits (well a whole package actually, got a bit carried away with the credit card ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LIszt Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Have just done mine. Went for Terrafirma springs and decarbon shocks. Went for hard on the front and medium on the back. As it was just about on the bumpstops before, it has made a huge difference. Very pleased with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Why not stick with Standard? You are not after lift, and you are not doing anything more than the vehicle was designed to do. Admittedly you might like HD rears, but genuine springs are hard to beat, and genuine shocks whislt not bling are good quality and not expensive. I am assuming your truck is a good few years old now, in which case the old stuff will probably be a bit saggy, so I would suggest that replacing springs and shocks with new genuine kit would get you where you wanted to be. just my 2p... Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Refreshing change to see people not going for a lift. Actually do you need more articulation? The defenders are pretty much class-leading in that respect so unless you are into aggressive stuff I would stick to original spec kit, cheaper too. I probably won't need more axle articulation certainly not to the extent of aggressive axle twisting action . I was working on my logic that for what I want in off roading I would be better off with more articulation hopefully ensuring the drive is going through at least three wheels rather than just lifting my CoG away from where I want it. That's why I am going for the spring shock upgrade - as well as the fact that the rear ones are foobered!. But I'm open to guidance on my choice of springs and shocks. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespanner Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Or a variation of what Mark said, go for new standard springs, and some longer shocks on GL mounts if you want more articulation. Roland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 First stop has to be Trev's spring calculator as found in the tech archive, surely? Work out what you want to achieve and work backwards. I will be having a look at that shortly and hope that it will guide me in the direction of enlightenment and reasoning - especially if it saves time and money! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 I fitted Bearmach HD blues to my 110, was expecting to retain standard height but got around a one and a half inch lift! The springs have been fine but the top mounts of the rear shockss keep wearing. Just about to fit some Gwyn Lewis kit with pin top mounts on the rear amongst other bits (well a whole package actually, got a bit carried away with the credit card ). If you got the lift inch and a half lift does that mean as part of your Gwyn Lewis spending spree you're getting braided brake pipes to cope with the height increase, different trailig and radius arms etc? The extra cost of beefing every thing up to cope is the main thing I want to avoid..unless you credit card likes freinds ! I might give the guys a call and see what they suggest..what did say the card number was? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Have just done mine. Went for Terrafirma springs and decarbon shocks. Went for hard on the front and medium on the back. As it was just about on the bumpstops before, it has made a huge difference. Very pleased with it. Sounds like you got it just right! That's what I'm hoping to achieve with my choice but it's a close call between Bearmach and Terrafirma for the springs so I'll have to do some more digging.. Thanks for your thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Why not stick with Standard? You are not after lift, and you are not doing anything more than the vehicle was designed to do. Admittedly you might like HD rears, but genuine springs are hard to beat, and genuine shocks whislt not bling are good quality and not expensive. I am assuming your truck is a good few years old now, in which case the old stuff will probably be a bit saggy, so I would suggest that replacing springs and shocks with new genuine kit would get you where you wanted to be. just my 2p... Mark Very valid points. I haven't dismissed genuine parts (especially as you say for the cost factor) I was just thinking that may be with the different springs and shocks with a little more extension I 'might' be better served by some slightly more specialist ones when the situation arises. Yes Blizz is getting on (aren't we all! ) - '85 110 hard top. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Or a variation of what Mark said, go for new standard springs, and some longer shocks on GL mounts if you want more articulation. Roland Yes that is a very good idea and I think that I will definately be having a word with the GL to see what he thinks a good way forward - even if it is with the standard springs on his mounts. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Why not stick with Standard? This is exactly what i plan to do. My only question is whether or not i need HD on the back as i need to see if the Boge strut is working at all. If it is, i'll stick with the standard CSW setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 Am I correct in assuming that whilst the engine is out it would be easier to replace springs and shocks? Or does having the extra weight make it easier to compress them? Also, depending on whether I go for genuine LR kit but hd or Bearmach and Terrafirma/Super Pro is it worth changing to braided brake hoses with say 1'' lift to cover any lift that may occur? I am presuming that the standard pipe work wouldn't be able to cope with a lift to any degree all the pipes themselves are in good condition. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 The only reason you will need longer hoses is if your new shocks allow the axle to droop significantly more than the old ones did. Personally, I would be inclined to swap the suspension out, and then see how much droop you have before committing to change the hoses too. 1-2" lift doesn't usually need longer hoses, bit it really depends on how much droop you get... Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 The only reason you will need longer hoses is if your new shocks allow the axle to droop significantly more than the old ones did. Personally, I would be inclined to swap the suspension out, and then see how much droop you have before committing to change the hoses too. 1-2" lift doesn't usually need longer hoses, bit it really depends on how much droop you get... Mark Mark, Just what I needed to know..that it is droop NOT lift that would require new brake hoses - which is good as leaving the existing ones in is cheaper! To be a pain and ask the same question again, is it be easier to do the springs and shocks whilst the engine is out and before the heavier 200Tdi engine is fitted or does it make no difference? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 You need to have the vehicle up and supported on stands so provided your jack is up to it, it makes no difference really. Access to the suspension turrets is pretty good with the engine in place, so personally I would sort the engine out, then sort the suspension out. 1 job at a time makes it far easier to complete... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 You need to have the vehicle up and supported on stands so provided your jack is up to it, it makes no difference really. Access to the suspension turrets is pretty good with the engine in place, so personally I would sort the engine out, then sort the suspension out. 1 job at a time makes it far easier to complete... Cool that's great thanks. Yes definately 1 job at a time - just didn't want to find out it would have been far easier with the engine out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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