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Rear window element repair?


hattymender

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Another weak spot in my 'Labrador proof' 110 identified.

One of them has killed the heated rear window element (normally they confine themselves to covering the window with snot but they got impatient to play in snow). To be honest it 80% of it hasn't been working for some time but a good scratching followed by chewing off the + lug has seen off the last working bits.

Is a repair practical? I could solder a lug back on but elements have been broken. Has anybody had any success with those conductive glue repairs?

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Another weak spot in my 'Labrador proof' 110 identified.

One of them has killed the heated rear window element (normally they confine themselves to covering the window with snot but they got impatient to play in snow). To be honest it 80% of it hasn't been working for some time but a good scratching followed by chewing off the + lug has seen off the last working bits.

Is a repair practical? I could solder a lug back on but elements have been broken. Has anybody had any success with those conductive glue repairs?

A conductive "paint" used to be available, but I haven't seen it advertised for

some time now. Possibly it is used to repair printed circuit boards?

Try "Googling" for it.

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Another weak spot in my 'Labrador proof' 110 identified.

One of them has killed the heated rear window element (normally they confine themselves to covering the window with snot but they got impatient to play in snow). To be honest it 80% of it hasn't been working for some time but a good scratching followed by chewing off the + lug has seen off the last working bits.

Is a repair practical? I could solder a lug back on but elements have been broken. Has anybody had any success with those conductive glue repairs?

Use 6mm bare copper wire glued to inside of window. power her up. Dog only chews it once :ph34r:

Sorry Rich better use 10mm in case wife touches it as well

Keith

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Decent car accesories shop should carry conductive paint, our local one does.

However the + lug is going to be more tricky.

I've once succesfully soldered once back on (it's soldered to a large pad of track when made)

Conversely I've twice failed to solder one back on.

What I did one one motor was to clean up the pad of track with a fibre glass pencil, drilled and tapped the U shaped bracket that restrains the cable and it's cover (this is a RRC) for small screw, then used said small screw to hold the connector fast. Not pretty but it worked.

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I've never had any luck with the conductive paint. I have soldered little bits back together again in the past. The teminals are more difficult as the heat can make them come away form the glass but as long as the element doesn't break they can be glued back on.

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