DiscoStu Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Hi all. I searched the forums recently for a guide on how to remvove the dash on a 300tdi discovery - I couldn't find anything. I thought I take a few pictures of the job as i did it - they may help someone in the future. To begin, remove the steering wheel. Flick the centre cap out of the steering wheel, detach and remove the horn mechanism, then using a socket on a short extension remove the securing nut. When removed, screw it back on a few threads then gripping the steering wheel at the quarter to three position, lever it back and forth whilst pulling towards you to remove it. When free, you can take the nut off completely and smile that you havent knocked your own teeth out! Next we will reove all the fasteners which secure the dash. The first are below the dash, large brackets at each side in the drivers and passenger footwell. Best seen lying on your back, four brackets in total. Whilst you're down here, remove the two screws directly below the heater controls. Now we can remove the heater control panel. Flick off the control knobs using a small screw driver, the central aperture has a screw which can be removed. Remove it and take of the panel facia. Now you can see four screws in the corners of the control panel, remove these. Now you need to remove the ashtray and switch panel, they just pull out. The clock and coin holder are more tricky. Using a small screwdriver again, slide it above and/or below eack component towards the outer edges to disengage the tabs which hold it in. With the ashtray or switch panel removed you can feel along the bottom edges with your fingers and locate the tabs - the top is the same as the bottom. When you pop these out, remove all the screws you can see. Now remove the stereo using the correct pins, or if you dont have them, by persuding it out as best you can with many screwdrivers! Once it's out, you can get to the two top screws - you will need a philips bit in a small ratchet to get these unless you have a really short chubby Now flick off the blck trim at the bottom of the stereo aperture (Mine had the red immobiliser led mounted in it) to access another two screws. Now its time to remove the instrument binnacle. Pull the binnacle switches out (Rear wipers/demist etc) and remove the multiplugs off the back. You can label these now if you wish. Remove the two screws at the bottom of the shroud and lift it off. Four phillips screws, two per side, secure the instument console to the dash. Remove these, the console should now lift out and allow you to remove the rest of the wiring - again, label at this point if you wish. When the instruments are removed you will see some more fasteners. From below, remove the 10mm bolts, inculding the two sneaky recessed ones either side of the steering column. At this point, unless i've forgotten anything you can lift and pull the dash out. Be carefull of heater cables and wiring. I had to cut half a dozen or so cable ties to free the dash from the loom so do it in stages - six inches and shine a torch down to look what's still attatched. You can now access your heater box, curling dash edges, wiring loom or whatever else you need to do. Good Luck! Stu. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ooops Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Brilliant timing, I'll be doing this in the next day or so. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Tech Archive!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStu Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 Hope it helps! Thanks for the tech archive mention, I didn't want to presume..... Incidentally, has the edit function disapeared or are my eyes not working? I want to correct my spellings! Stu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Incidentally, has the edit function disapeared or are my eyes not working? I want to cortrect my spellings! How ironic The edit button disappears after a set amount of time, (I think it's about 10-15mins) to stop people editing posts when replies have already been made, but if you ask a mod nicely I am sure they can help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sjoerdm Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Hello, Thank you for a VERY instructive post. It's on my list for this spring, so very nice timing. If I can just say that clock comes out very nicely when the tabs holding it in are disengaged with a credit card. Just take an old card, insert it top and bottom and you can feel the tabs disengage. Kindest, Sjoerd vd M '95 D1 V8 auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First_Fleet Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Yes, very good post. I wish I'd had it a few years ago. The only thing I will suggest is some red arrows highlighting certain screws, fasteners etc that you mention. Otherwise, 12/10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStu Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 Thanks lads. I'll take that on board about the arrows. To be honest I was wasting time in work and don't have access to any photo software here, maybe I could do it in MS paint...? Anyway, thanks once again! Stu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First_Fleet Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Stu, I'm not sure MS Paint can give you sizeable, neat arrows. Maybe it can but I've never found them. I know PhotoShop can & I think it's what your presentation needs to do it the justice it deserves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delarosa Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Hi Stu, I have followed your instructions for the removal of the dash, but I only want to take out the heater controls to change the bulb. It looks like I have to take the whole dash out for that job! The bulb seams to pull out only from the back. Is that the case? I say that as I am stuck with two screws at the top of the stereo facing upwards into the dashboard. It is impossible to use a screw driver as the angle is too high. Do you have a suggestion please? Regards, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 one thing to remember is that if you have got an airbag, then you need to disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour first to allow the system to "discharge" before removing it from the steering wheel via the two small torx bits on the back of the wheel itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyAL Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 absalutly brilliant i think uve just saved me a few hours of searching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UkFoxy Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Brilliant & Informative post Stu...I'll be attempting this tomorrow Cheers mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinn76 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Hi Stu, I have followed your instructions for the removal of the dash, but I only want to take out the heater controls to change the bulb. It looks like I have to take the whole dash out for that job! The bulb seams to pull out only from the back. Is that the case? I say that as I am stuck with two screws at the top of the stereo facing upwards into the dashboard. It is impossible to use a screw driver as the angle is too high. Do you have a suggestion please? Regards, Bob I tend to use a screwdriver bit, the ones that come with cordless drills etc and a pair of pliers HTH Bri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog74 Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 How long did it take to get it all out ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cox325 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Excellent, need to take mine out to source the last leak I have!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thys Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Stu, thanks for this info. I have one more question. The Disco 1 300 Tdi's with factory fitted aircon; same procedure? My Disco's heater matrix is shot (water circuit blocked), and I want to replace the core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStu Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 Hello all, sorry for the lateness of reply - I do a different job these days and dont have any time that needs wasting anymore! Delarosa & Pinn - this is where you need a phillips bit in a short 7mm socket or proper holder on a 1/4 inch ratchet to get those tricky screws - a bit held in pliers will work as Pinn says but how many times will you drop it down the dash! Airbags - good point, I havent got them so didnt realise that. Aircon - sorry, again outside my experience on my disco's so far. When you suss it, be sure to update this thread Oh, and the time taken, proably les than 2hrs including brews and inconvienient phone calls! Stu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Stu, thanks for this info. I have one more question. The Disco 1 300 Tdi's with factory fitted aircon; same procedure? My Disco's heater matrix is shot (water circuit blocked), and I want to replace the core A/C isn't affected by the dash removel, apart from an extra switch or two to remove - been there done that. Haynes say you have to remove the heater box, but it is possible to leave it all in place, just a bit fiddly to get at the pipes. Don't replace the dash until you've refilled the coolant and made sure that the connections to the matrix don't leak either. Airbags - good point, I havent got them so didnt realise that N/S one is a right PITA as well, screws are 12 point IIRC and need a 3/8 socket on a double extension to get at - after removing the glovebox completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thys Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Thanks Disco_Al, If I read your reply correctly: I can remove the heater matrix without un-coupling the refrigerant hoses from the evaporator unit, with the dash removed? Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 If I read your reply correctly: I can remove the heater matrix without un-coupling the refrigerant hoses from the evaporator unit, with the dash removed? yep, it's fiddly at times, but is certainly do-able Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thys Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Now that's all I needed to know, some motivation to tackle the blocked heater matrix, and trace the aircon wiring, the clattering relay is back, refrigerant charge OK and compressor clutch clearance within spec.and a new relay.... Thanks disco-al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Now that's all I needed to know, some motivation to tackle the blocked heater matrix, and trace the aircon wiring, the clattering relay is back, refrigerant charge OK and compressor clutch clearance within spec.and a new relay.... check the ignition load relay. had problems with my a/c not working (it had been bodged with a 12v feed from the fusebox), turned out the ign load relay was faulty and not allowing the a/c any power. it's in the rh footwell behind the kick panel, water had been getting in through the "ventilation holes" in the A panel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lcsm Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 very good post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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