tweetyduck Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 How about this for a Lower Swivel Bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I'd say that bearing is past it's best or Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 ***k me! thats a little past its best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 As you're planning to overland, I would leave the stone guards on. I'd beg to differ with Ross on this point. If all your mileage on your trip is to be on metalled road then by all means leave them on but if a good deal of it is to be on unmade roads and tracks then you will find what good mud traps they are and how well they guard the stones that are stuck between it and the disk. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 talking to a guy who spends a lot of time in Morocco, he said he leaves them on to stop the disks getting peppered with as many stones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I have the disc shields off on mine. No more trapped stones. The discs run cooler. The guards only fall off and trap in the wheels anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share Posted March 1, 2010 Thanks. I'll fit them for now and remove later if needed. Not sure on route yet so will leave that one for planning. 5 min job to remove them anyhow. I'm still toying with changing the disks and pads to upgrades so i leave it for then. Plus i need to cahnge the front caliper bolts as they are shagged. (photo of those to come) I'd read both side of the argument before and was in two minds and it looks like it still depends where i'm off to. Didn't know about stones though, tricky descision. Thanks all. Advice taken and descision yet to be made. I'm 70% thinking of removing them as they seem to benefit little and might cause issue. Issues i don't want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Neil Callipebolts are dealer only I carry a set of four all the timeas spares. Each time I remove the calliper I run a tap doen the bolt hole threads and a die down the bolt. I ald discard any bolt with a dodgy head. When refitting I always use a threadlock on the threads. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share Posted March 1, 2010 Ordered some bolts so i'll get them changed on the weekend. Not got any taps and dies. Did have some years ago but car booted them. Kicking myself at some of the things i offloaded for pennies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Ordered some bolts so i'll get them changed on the weekend. Not got any taps and dies. Did have some years ago but car booted them. Kicking myself at some of the things i offloaded for pennies. Those bolts are a funny thread..12mm X 1.25 IIRC........The dealer should tell you. I'll look at my taps IIR tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 That does sound strange!! M12 normally M12 x 1.75??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Se7enUp Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Poor mans tap - run a hacksaw down the middle of the old bolt (about 3/4 way down the thread) Use this to screw in prior to fitting the new bolt. All the carp in the threaded hole will end up in the slot you cut in the old bolt. Not quite a tap but very effective for cleaning up threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 1, 2010 Author Share Posted March 1, 2010 thanks. I'll give that a try. My dremell is getting some use........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 So this is the nearside. What do you think of the signs of heat damage. It feels solid. Should i change it? Also this bearing is a bit worn. Do you think its worth swapping it out? I just hope i didn't miss the same on the other side as i didn't swap that and its all back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 I dont know the answer to change or not. But to get those colours is quite a temperature!! I assume the parts would have been heat treated when they were made. The re heating will have wiped those treatments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 I've noticed that on the side i did last week the swivel seal is leaking and leaving a "tide line" or swivel grease when full lock to full lock. Is this normal and is this a sign i've not set something up correcty. Obviously everything is new so this just sounds like an adjustment that i've incorrectly done. Any ideas? Thanks ps its a pretty big deposit...not just a little smear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 ( An apartment I rented once got a real marking from the landie.. leaking all day long. Almost got ejected) Leaking seals means a lot. Either the seals have given up, flappy, a knakkered topp swivel bearing or you have tightened the topp pin too much which exerts so much pressure that the bearings have given up. A rusty Chrome is a trigger to seal leaking. I might be wrong. You better wait for an adult to come over. A real mech who knows what he (or she to avoid anyone knocking on my door to ask why I omitted the other sex) is saying could be also an alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 it can't be the seal as i've just changed it along with both bearings and the ball. Everything is new. I set the pull tension to 4.5kg as per the book (although this was difficult to do, due to the inertia) so the top pin shouldn't be to tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 The heat marks on the cv joint are correct and are there from new. The needle rollers are slightly marked on the areas that are in contact, but not excessive. In my opinion - cv looks fine, but to be sure - change the needle roller bearing. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 The heat marks on the cv joint are correct and are there from new. The needle rollers are slightly marked on the areas that are in contact, but not excessive. In my opinion - cv looks fine, but to be sure - change the needle roller bearing. Les. This is how baked mine was when I went in there... A real sight.. Mud coupled with one shot greese... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 Thanks Les. I reccon its OK myself, but its nice to get a second and third opinion (any more welcomed!). I'll replace the needles. So long as i decide tomorrow no time will be lost. Should i replace the CV is still on offer.........??? @dantd5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 With the CV joint nice and clean, lightly oil it, then try to twist one half against the other at various angles - especially as it would be on full lock when fitted to the vehicle. The ball bearings will be pitted/scored if they are worn, so look carefully at them. Cv joints can be dismantled, but there's a bit of a knack to doing it. Some pics of a worn cv and what to look out for - The small nick in the bearing track is where the bearing has been digging in - this causes the click that you hear when turning the vehicle on full lock. Inner bearing track still looks ok though - A cv joint should feel smooth in all positions, with no play between the joint and the driveshaft or the cup/bearings, cage, or centre, although it's usual to have a small amount of play on the splines with a worn item. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 That super advice thanks. Off to clean it and check it out fully. Fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 That does sound strange!! M12 normally M12 x 1.75??? NOPE..Nothing strange about giving the correct size bolt thread......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 OK so the swivel i did last week is definately not right. Its like the seal is sitting too near the inside (low on the hemishere) of the vehicle and the whole thing needs pulling towards the outside of the vehicle to make the seal sit a little further up the radius of the swivel ball (higher on the hemisphere). I can't fathom how this is possible? The swivel housing is held in position by the siwel pins and these connect to the swivel ball at the top and lower bearings so it would be impossible to get the seal further up the radius of the ball and so higher up the hemisphere. Anyone got any ideas?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.