300Tdi Turbocharger

[Troll Hunter]

The oil seal between the bearing and the air compressor side of my turbo has failed - masses of marmite in intercooler and inlet manifold . I've confirmed that the oil return hose is not blocked. The LR parts manual shows the exhaust manifold and the turbo itself to be a single unit, Part No. ERR4802, but Paddock spares supply a replacement turbo, but without the exhaust manifold . Can somebody tell me how to separate my existing turbo from the exhaust manifold, please, since I'll have to do this even if I get the old one overhauled. Many thanks for all suggestions.

Mike

[disco_al]

the 300 turbo is part of the manifold, and as such can't be separated.

[Troll Hunter]

Disco_al,

That's what I thought, but Paddocks have just confirmed that they supply the turbo only, without the exhaust manifold. Must admit, though, they didn't have one in stock, so they couldn't eyeball a unit. They could be wrong!!

Also, any tips for removal of the injectors, once the retaining plates have been removed, please? Mine seem to be obstinately "welded" to the engine.

Mike

[jbs]

you may find that the turbo will separate from the manifold just like the 200 tdi one does-where the turbo fit's onto the manifold on the 200 tdi there are what could be described as C clamps which are C shaped pieces of flat metal that bolt to the manifold and clamp the turbo to the manifold

this is maybe what you have to do when they supply the turbo on it's own

However when I looked here-I googled it: http://www.brookwell.co.uk/item/71/oem-turbocharger-300-tdi-engine it looks like it does come with the manifold attached and when I looked here:

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/turbocharger-300tdi-err4802-p-1612.html

which is considerably cheaper by the way as it includes the VAT it shows the same box

HTH

John

[TheRecklessEngineer]

Are you sure it's the turbo?

Marmite is normally created by failure of the EGR valve - you get a sooty/oily mess. Oil in the intake can also come from excessive piston blowby - the gas flows back into the intake upstream of the turbo. There is always some blowby resulting in an oily intake. This is quite normal.

[PeterW]

Also, any tips for removal of the injectors, once the retaining plates have been removed, please? Mine seem to be obstinately "welded" to the engine.

Mike

Loosen the retaining plates and soak around the injectors with Plus Gas or WD40. Remove the wire from the fuel solenoid and then crank over the engine - its usually enough to pop the injectors from their seats.

Cheers

Pete

[Bush65]

The turbine housing is part of the exhaust manifold, and you simply separate the turbine housing from the centre housing in the normal way for small Garrett turbos of the period - remove 4 screws from the split/C clamps.

The following pic of a 300Tdi turbo shows the C.H.R.A. (centre housing & rotating assembly sometime called cartridge) with the turbine housing on the right and the compressor cover/housing on the left.

Service kits for these turbos are cheap on ebay and relatively easy to fit yourself. They contain new bearings, seals, etc.

[Troll Hunter]

Many thanks for the advise on removing the injectors, and for confirmation that the turbo and exhaust manifold can, in fact, be separated. What, though, is "the normal way" of separating these? I have soaked them in WD40 for 24 hours and have gently tapped the alloy side with a soft hammer, but cannot get any movement, and I'm reluctant to go up 10 on the hammer scale! Do I just need to let them soak in WD40 for longer?

Thanks, also, for the advice about EGR. Mine is removed, but reading the current thread about crankcase breathers and oil separation has identified that the marmite in my intake system may not be coming from the turbo lube system, but from crankcase oil carryover. Next step is to do a comprssion test, and see if there is any indication of imminent failure there.

Regards, all,

Mike

[western]

use Plusgas, WD40 is not a penetrating fluid only a moisture dispersant.

[Les Henson]

If you are removing the alloy part of the turbo from the rest of it, then plus gas won't work either. Apart from the clip, there's only a thin rubber O-ring in there to affect a seal. I suggest leverage at various points around the casing to get it to move.

Les.

[keithjh]

the 300 turbo is part of the manifold, and as such can't be separated.

Er not true the Turbo is a seperate item to the manifold (2 pieces), i know this for a fact as i have just fitted a new turbo to my 300 tdi 110,

Regards

Keith

[doda456]

Its a slight thread hijack, but whats the best way to remove the marmite? My inlet manifold has a lovley coating of it, which can do with removing

Dan

[PeterW]

Its a slight thread hijack, but whats the best way to remove the marmite? My inlet manifold has a lovley coating of it, which can do with removing

Dan

Dan

Landrover used to do an intercooler one shot cleaner, not sure its still available though.

Gunwash from a paint supplier would do the trick - just make sure you leave it to evaporate before you put the manifold back on as it may make a few loud bangs otherwise !!

Cheers

Pete

[Les Henson]

You'll have to remove the manifold to clean it properly - you really don't want chunks going into the engine. The inlet ports also get coated, so you'll need to poke around in there as well to clean it up (make sure the relevant valve is closed though)

Les.

[Troll Hunter]

Thanks for all your input and advice. I separated the turbo from the manifold and found that the turbo blades are almost non-existent . I've obviously overcooked them, which also explains why the boost pressure is not what it used to be - now about 3 psi max . So, I'll not explore any failed oil seal, but am ordering a replacement turbo. But, here's the problem:

Paddocks give the part no. as ERR4802, which is shown in the LR parts catalogue as including the exhaust manifold, but PS confirm is only the turbo, and they show the same part number for a number of LR models. So far, no problem. While looking for an alternative/closer supplier - I'm in BC, Canada, I found this site, although its not closer: http://www.dieselevante.it/turbochargers.asp?idmarca=111&idcat=2 They list several different Garrett models in the T250-04 range, including two for the same year:

Applications</B>MarkModelYearTypeH.p.EngineFamily TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code

PASSENGER CARSLANDROVERDEFENDER19992.5/4GEMINI IIIT250-04452055-0008PMF100510 Enquiries ›PASSENGER CARSLANDROVERDEFENDER19992.5/4GEMINI IIIT250-04452055-0007ERR4893 Enquiries

A local Garrett agent, in Canada, advised me that Garrett had confirmed that the correct model no. for a 300Tdi Defender is 452055-5004S , and their "discounted" price converted to ~£800 .

So, what's the deal with PS offering the same unit, ERR4802, for all these options? Or are the details at the above web site incorrect? Or is Garrett info suspect? Any guidance will be very much appreciated, please, and thanks in advance.

Mike

[Bush65]

The pics below show the tag from an early disco 300Tdi turbo and a section from a BTN turbo catalogue.

The 1st number on the tag (ERR 4893) is the oem (Land Rover) part number. The 2nd number (452055-4) is the Garrett part number - note the number after the dash is a revision number so later numbers replace earlier. You should have a similar tag on the compressor cover/housing of your old turbo.

[Les Henson]

EPC lists the 300TDi Turbo (Garret), as ERR4802E (exchange unit), or ERR4802 (new).

It might be worth you odering one from over here - they are £300-odd quid for a new one.

Les.

[elmagnoon]

Are you sure it's the turbo?

Marmite is normally created by failure of the EGR valve - you get a sooty/oily mess. Oil in the intake can also come from excessive piston blowby - the gas flows back into the intake upstream of the turbo. There is always some blowby resulting in an oily intake. This is quite normal.

Sorry to dig up such an old topic.

I've been having large amounts of oil dripping out of the exhaust portion right under the manifold. I pulled the turbo and manifold to find that the turbo hoses are dripping oil. The inlet ports on the head are oil soaked but not the exhaust ports. I need to know if the oil is from the turbo or blow by from worn or broken rings/pistons. So the issue of blow by interests me.

A while back I removed the hose coming out of the cyclone off the air intake and left hang down. Does that eliminate the blow by theory in my case?