Jump to content

UPDATE - Disco Truggy


DiscoDino

Recommended Posts

Well,

Had a 3 day trip back to Lebanon to work on the truck and we are 80-85% done so far - only things to do is finish (1) the exo cage, (2) clean up the wiring, & (3) figure out the air filter/snorkel bit. All the new components are fully functional (4.2, Auto, underdrive, new brakes, Saginaw PS pump, 120amp, paint, waterproofed cab, interior, etc...)

Here are some updated pictures.

1. You're going to laugh, but we found this hydro manual bender in an adjacent garage. No markings, but it did bend the 60mm x 5mm tubing fairly easily...

DSC00146.sized.jpg

2. Tidied up the front end and made a hood-attached radiator grill that came out looking "hereditary" from a RR Sport - all lighting will be Defender based for ease

DSC00149.sized.jpg

DSC00152.sized.jpg

DSC00181.sized.jpg

3. Dual Yellow-tops slapped right behind the seat

DSC00165.sized.jpg

4. Tiny rear window is all we need to look out of the truck (VW camper source)

DSC00164.sized.jpg

5. OK, the trophy. My mechanic called me up (I like out of country) and told me "I found this big ass PS pump, I want to try to mount it, its cheap and looks huge" - after knowing that it has a built in metal reservoir, I know it was one of those desirable ones. It was tricky to mount as the belt needed to clear the box, but it is doable. I'll attest to 0psi in the 42s, on garage floor and steering, at idle, with one hand

DSC00159.sized.jpg

DSC00157.sized.jpg

6. Approach angle is more than I wanted, but it is not as bad as it seems. There will be a stinger there in upside down "U" form (not "V" as the idea is that the "v" one will make the truck rotate to the side - not sure how viable that is). I replaced the Warn 4-pack solenoids with a single Albright sealed solenoid - one each per winch.

7. The inside lost the A/C but I left the heater for now for the winter and defogging the glass. The rear glass is tiny, so no structural strength lossed. Also, the underdrive level is set (rod, no wire)

DSC00163.sized.jpg

8. The rear section is taken up mainly by the stock fuel tank, but it’ll also have place for the 60” hi-lift, Pull-pal, Waffles, and a storage area for my tools and recovery gear. Also a place for my scuba tank air source

DSC00162.sized.jpg

9. Here’s mocking up the exo cage – in fact we’ve already finished the trickiest bar (top one) and are finishing the “main” cage by Tuesday and hopefully by Saturday we should be fully tacked in. Next week we’ll get it fully welded, epoxy painted (rubbery stuff, real durable and cheap), and then remounted for chassis welding.

I really want to extend the wheelbase eventually (next spring) – I’m getting married and moving to the US, so no use in investing more into it now…also thinking of putting some Mog U1300s on it (1100 USD for a pair, 1200USD if they are both steering) while I’m at it…

Any suggestions? Comments? Let me have it while I can change for the last week.

Main think that’s puzzling me, how to mount a snorkel WITHIN the cab area (not outside the Exo) in an easy manner? Also, so I really need a snorkel? The hood is chest level, and I don’t think I’ll be flogging it in deeper muck/water? An open cone Filter would do?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's some cool stuff there, nice :D

Mind still interrested to see how you finish those front fenders.

For the snorkel why not try the trick of passing the induction pipe through the cab and then mount snorkel up behind the cab where its well protected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have one comment Nadim:

SWEET!!!!!

The Disco Truggy (Druggy?) has turned out very impressive. The Saginaw was a good find - you'll need it with the 42's I guess. I can't believe how quickly you have moved on this. Can't wait for action shots!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys...

Snorkel idea a la D4x4 is in mind, but I want something simpler...still best option i guess...

The other option is to wait util the exo cage is fitted then tuckk the snorkel inboard of that. Take a look at the snorkel tops on Moglites Ibex (RedIbex) which would fit a treat iside the bend of the A hoop.

Snorkel.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good!!!

I'd agree about rear snorkels; deffinatly the way to go. The only thing I'd say about most of the one's I've seen is think about the filter. I find the standard sized one gets colgged up easily enough so do you really want to run an even smaller one????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

…also thinking of putting some Mog U1300s on it (1100 USD for a pair, 1200USD if they are both steering) while I’m at it…

And you were always so vehemently against portals!

Go on then what’s made you change your mind?

It's not the 42 inch iroks promising to destroy the Toyota setup is it?

U1300 steering axles weigh over 500kg each,

but they will take 52"s as standard.

mmmmm.........52"s........drool!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DiscoDino - that is looking great. Very original. I love the grille especially! B)

One thought - your stinger... You're gonna use a 'U' instead of a 'V' because it is less inherently unstable when the truck is upside-down and resting on it? Is that right?

I'd have to question the difference in instability, given the fact that they both have an unstable gradient from the centre point? (Ok, it might be a bit better with the 'U'). How about a wide one: I__I (upside down) - that would be stable, or you could try 2 'U's spaced apart : U U. In the end you are resting on a single point which slopes away either side, I'd question the stability of a system like that. But also, who cares - you've already rolled it to get there, so wouldn't ending up on your side again just be like someone helping to roll it back over? (A good thing?) - Just my random thoughts... Of course if your other point of contact is the roof, then your stability will come from that, the stinger just carrying a point load, so maybe it doesn't actually matter...?

Nice find on the bender!

Depending on where in the States you are going - I guess you may not need the snorkel?

Dirty D - I think > 500kgs for a U1300 is a bit OTT - aren't they pretty similar to the 416s (which I have a pair of) - they're not light, but I can shuffle them round the garage and I don't reckon I could move half a tonne. I'd go nearer 350 kgs for a steerer. Either way, that's a pretty good price for 2 steering axles, DiscoD - where are they located? No, ignore that. I've got enough damn axles already... :blink:

For an exact figure, ask Moglite - he held on to them while I drove the trailer out from under them! :D

[sorry Andy! :ph34r: ]

Nice - keep it coming, Al.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dirty D - I think > 500kgs for a U1300 is a bit OTT - aren't they pretty similar to the 416s (which I have a pair of) - they're not light, but I can shuffle them round the garage and I don't reckon I could move half a tonne. I'd go nearer 350 kgs for a steerer. Either way, that's a pretty good price for 2 steering axles, DiscoD - where are they located? No, ignore that. I've got enough damn axles already... :blink:

For an exact figure, ask Moglite - he held on to them while I drove the trailer out from under them! :D

A 404 steering axle is a shade under 300kg (shipping weight of 320kg inc pallet), which i can move quite easily.

I've Mildly miffed about with a set of u1100 axles (narrower track than u1300) and they were very heavy in comparison, they felt almost "nailed" to the ground.

The 404's are also tiny compared to the later axles.

I got the 500kg+ off a german site as a shipping weight

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A front steering 404 has been weighed at 240kgs with original drum brakes and steering.

Jare's Alfastar in Finland has (a bit under) 500 kgs of 404 axles (total) and 400kgs of 44" Swamper TSLs on fabbed up steelies (about 95kgs a corner). Somehow, he got the whole thing to weigh in at 1750kgs...!

There's no way the 406s I have each weigh the same as a pair of 404s (I also have). I guess 100 kilos more apiece = roughly 350kgs for a steerer (so yeah Jez - say a little under 550kg per axle with some 44s on, sure - less with discs). I'm not sure your shipping quote wasn't erring on the side of fleecing caution? Maybe it was a beefy crate?

It might make me a gayboy too, but I know what you mean about feeling nailed to the ground - You try to lift it, then stop and have a look to see what it's caught on! Happens every time with the 416s! :lol:

Cheers, Al. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Al,

Has Jare sold that now? gone to spain? there wasnt a lot to it so 1750 is doable

John was saying something about your sexuality but I couldnt hear him over the grinder- he was waving his hands about a lot and looked a little scared - I thought it best not to ask :lol::lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Al,

Has Jare sold that now? gone to spain? there wasnt a lot to it so 1750 is doable

John was saying something about your sexuality but I couldnt hear him over the grinder- he was waving his hands about a lot and looked a little scared - I thought it best not to ask :lol::lol:

Jez - not sure. Sure it was pretty small and built to race, but when you've got nearly a tonne hanging off the springs, it's not a bad all-up weight for something that gets properly abused!

John?... Grinder?... I had him pegged as more of a 'soldering iron' kind of guy!?! :P:ph34r:

Oh - I get it - YOU had the grinder... Are you sure the look on his face had nothing to do with your recent industrial-sized rubber order...? :unsure:

Just to make it look like I'm paying attention: DiscoDino - what is the current wheelbase? And Outside tyre width? What do you plan extending the WB to?

Al.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys - first thanks for the kind words and the gay hi-jack :D (why no finger smiley :))

Current wheelbase is 102", outside width is 84".

I'm planning to go with the Mog axles in a years' time not because of fear for the Toy set-up (knock on wood, spray Holy water :)), but because:

1. I want to run 112-115" wheelbase for stability

2. for that I need rear steer for manouvrability - not sure any other axle on 42" will withstand rear steer

3. that will mean 4 link and coil overs (I still prefer non-portals, but I am thinking of a suspension design to eliminate that main fear of portals and, since they will be totally outside the chassis, they will sit really up high, so no COG increase hopefully)

4. I love the 42" IROK, so with mogs, even more clearance

5. they are dirt cheap

6. will make them lightest possible

regardless of the weight, its unsprung, so I'm kinda cool. Sourced the axles from Lebanon (where the truck is and I am from, but I'll be LIVING in the US Al :)), they are dirt cheap here as we buy f*&^ed up trucks for close to nothing from the military...

Al, for the stinger, the "U" is the best in my opinion. I am trying to elude getting a smack on the top of teh cage, so a barrel roll is better than an end over...I'll try it out, if it doesn't work, then I'll figure it out, but I've seen far too many clips of "V" stingers getting the truck on 1/4 of its nose/top that I didn't like it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy