Landystan Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Hi all, I'm new to this forum and only got my Landrover last month. So far I've been trying to get the engine running and not tried anything else yet. I got the Landrover off an allotment where it had been stood in a garage for atleast 10 years. Its a 1973 series 3 88 with a perkins 2.25 diesel fitted. It also has the original 2.25 petrol engine with it which was removed to make way for the diesel engine. It also has been fitted with rangerover diffs for some reason and was told it struggled to get out of 3rd gear with them fitted. Guessing the engine was too underpowered to like that. However i have the original diffs so can swap these back if need be. Right now onto the engine. I've been trying to get it running and have bought a new battery, changed oil, new oil and fuel filter. I've noticed the heat plug in the manifold isn't wired up however it looks like someone has temporary pulled a 12v feed from battery into cab and also pulled a cable from heat plug to cab too so been just touching them together to get it started. So far I can only get it started with easy start and it cuts out straight away. I've primed the engine with fuel and have noticed I can see air bubbles shooting up and down the fuel pipes. I was wondering if the air in the fuel system could be reason why I cant get the engine to run on its own accord? I also have encountered another problem.... It looks like water is leaking from the engine from the passenger side. It's appearing just under a recessed bit of the engine and as far as I'm aware isn't coming from any pipes or tubes so wondered if the head might be cracked? I would appreciate help please if anyone has or has encountered problems with Perkins engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Fuel pressure is critical on a diesel engine, so air in the system will have a dramatic effect on it. Don't keep using Easy Start - it's not very good for diesel engines. The water leak - is it leaking from a round disc-shaped recess in the engine block? Could be a core plug, which is cheap and relatively easy to replace. Cylinder head is a huge lump of iron, so it's doubtful it's cracked/warped. If the leak is from the head/block join, then probably head gasket failure. 1973 vehicle may well have been made in 1972, so you might have historic vehicle classification, so a tax exempt vehicle. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Test the glow plugs by taking each one out, giving the outside earth and the terminal 12v. THEY WILL GET DAMN HOT DAMN QUICKLY SO DON'T HOLD THEM BY HAND If they don't then this won't be helping you. Dirty diesels need them to start. When you refit them, wire them in properly - they draw a fair bit of current, so this business of holding a couple of wires together isn't fit for purpose. When you say you've primed the engine, what do you mean ? By pumping up the lift pump either with a little press pump or squeezy thingy etc i assume. When it's started does it sound like it's knocking ? Possibly try loosening each injector into the engine and crank it over. You'll see some diesel come out the pipe connection, then nip them back up. This will just remove any air and will confirm you are actually getting fuel. Is the stop solenoid working ? but if you do the above test you'll see if fuel is flowing to answer this question. .....or put a petrol in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy'd Gentry Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 I would be tempted to take out the diesel engineand put the petrol unit back in. Easier to work on, better performance and back to origionality! But that's only my opinion which my wife tells me is worthless! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 I hadn't realised Perkins did a 2.25 diesel, seems a strange thing to convert to since the original diesel was 2.25. I have to say the petrol lump will likely be a far better bet, the 2.25 diesel was, erm, very sedate even by 1970's standards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landystan Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 The leak is appearing from just above that along the weld joint of the engine which is a bit worrying. The engine starts but then cut out. I will try the injector idea and see if that helps. I an considering putting the petrol engine back in. Is it a hard job to do so? Anyone from the Rotherham / Sheffield who might like to help me do it? (PAY YOU OF COURSE) Thanks all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_P Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 I hadn't realised Perkins did a 2.25 diesel, seems a strange thing to convert to since the original diesel was 2.25. I'm not sure Perkins did make a 2.25? A quick google doesn't reveal anything. Landystand, are you certain it's a Perkins engine and not the Rover 2.25 Diesel? Whatever the case - the Rover 2.25 Diesel is an okay engine. Good ones (rare) will give you between 27 and 35 mpg which easily makes up for their poorer performance in comparison to the petrol that sees around 20 mpg. And RR diffs are quite steep for even the petrol engine. Best bet is to fit the standard diffs (as you intend to) and also fit an overdrive if it hasn't got one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landystan Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 Yeah does anyone live near Rotherham / Sheffield who could have a look and see if i need to change to petrol? Can pay of course... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 I'm not sure Perkins did make a 2.25? A quick google doesn't reveal anything. Landystand, are you certain it's a Perkins engine and not the Rover 2.25 Diesel? One decent photograph and we should be able to tell! The traditional Perkins mods are the <mighty> 4-203 and 4-236 monsters. edit - found out what the numbers mean (cylinders - cubic inches)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Let me fix that for you: The traditional Perkins mods are the <mighty heavy> 4.203 and 4.236 litre monsters. I didn't think the 2.25 diesels could top 30mpg, then again I've never really looked at them closely because they're so damn slow it hardly seems worth it. The 2.25 petrol has a lot of love to give with a bit of tweaking, still waiting for someone to finish megasquirting one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 The 2 1/4 diesel I had in my 109 ambulance used to regularly return 33mpg and a happy cruising speed of 60mph on 7.50-16 radials..I did fully rebuild the engine tho , including £350 on the FIP and injectors. The 4203 has loads of torque but doesn't rev very high, and the 4236 feels like twice the torque of the 4203, and revs a little higher. I have seen smaller Perkins - 4182 iirc in LandRovers A couple of pics would help to ID it cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_P Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 I didn't think the 2.25 diesels could top 30mpg, then again I've never really looked at them closely because they're so damn slow it hardly seems worth it. The 2.25 petrol has a lot of love to give with a bit of tweaking, still waiting for someone to finish megasquirting one I like the petrol engine too, that's why my 88's original one is sat in the garage (to which has had new bearings, gaskets, water pump, carb, and many many more bits ). My only important reason for going to the diesel is the economy. Studentism means cost overules performance, as long as it can maintain a safe pace with traffic - which it does. (until you hit the mighty M62 climbs between Manchester and Leeds ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Perkins did make a 2.25ltr as well as a 2.5 and a 3ltr, the latter is what is known as a 4-182. They are all the 200 series engines. Convert CC to CI and it will give you the number to go after the 4- to get the model number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landystan Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 I will take some pictures now and upload them of the engine where the leaks appearing. Here's some I've uploaded to PhotoRadar of the Landrover and the engine bay. Give me half hour to do so to take a couple of the leaky area..... http://www.photoradar.com/photos/79432/marky1985/landrover-series-3-1974-engine-13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landystan Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 Just uploading photo's now to the above link. I have included 3 of the Engine including a circled area of where the water is appearing. 2 photos show the Engine number which I'm trying to link to a Perkins Database. Lastly the last 2 photo's show the spare petrol engine. The engine number is 203E30041 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landystan Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 Just uploading photo's now to the above link. I have included 3 of the Engine including a circled area of where the water is appearing. 2 photos show the Engine number which I'm trying to link to a Perkins Database. Lastly the last 2 photo's show the spare petrol engine. The engine number is 203E30041 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landystan Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 http://www.photoradar.com/photos/79432/marky1985 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Thats a 4-203 unit. Where are the photo's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landystan Posted July 2, 2010 Author Share Posted July 2, 2010 Link is http://www.photoradar.com/photos/79432/marky1985 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 Defo a 4-203 from the pictures, there should be an exhauster underneath the inj pump, just what you need for a servo on the brakes. I dont see any weld so i would say that the water is a head gasket leak, which i daresay is not what you wanted to hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landystan Posted July 2, 2010 Author Share Posted July 2, 2010 Hmmm thought that might be the case. So will it be too much hassle to repair or can it even be done? or Shall i remove it and replace the original Petrol engine? Would it be relatively easy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 Yep , I agree with Phil Its not a bad job to do the HG and when running it will cope with the RR diffs, plenty of torque but low top end revs. cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 Yes, agree, a 4/203 3.3ltr. Should have thought it would pull RR diffs. ok. Was an early diesel conversion for Range Rover. Out of revs. at 60mph., overdrive was generally recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 Agreed, a 4/203 3.3ltr. Would have thought it would pull RR diffs. ok. Was an early diesel conversion for Range Rovers, said to be out of revs at 60mph. and an overdrive was a recommended addition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 Depending on the engine spec they can be pushed up to 3000+rpm max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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