Disty Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Does the chassis (richards) have holes for the p-clips to attach to? If so, what size are they? And if not, how am I supposed to attach? (There's no way i'm drilling that baby!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Mine didn't. I just drilled 3mm holes and screwed P-clips on with self tappers. The other option is to drill a larger hole and fit the pipe clips that are fitted originally, but I thought a self-tapper would be more self-sealing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disty Posted August 30, 2010 Author Share Posted August 30, 2010 You mean you actually drilled the galvanised chassis? Isn't that a big no-no? (I'm new to this whole thing!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 I did yes. Far as I could tell there was no other way around it. Not ideal, but I figured that the zinc will act as a sacrificial anode to an extent, plus as above I was pretty sure the self-tapper would seal the hole up enough for it not to matter too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 You mean you actually drilled the galvanised chassis? Isn't that a big no-no? (I'm new to this whole thing!) Haven't you drilled out all the holes in the chassis yet to aid bolting parts on then ? I drilled and riveted dozens of cable tie mounts onto my chassis for the wiring and push fit fittings for the brake pipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disty Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 I haven't drilled any holes, and didn't really expect to be honest Do the genuine chassis' also have to be drilled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 Richards drill out all the holes for things like suspension/body mountings etc. after the galvanising. They don't supply the chassis with brake pipe holes at all. A genuine one would have them though, I should think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 Richards drill out all the holes for things like suspension/body mountings etc. after the galvanising. I can imagine there's a difference between drilling out pre-drilled galved holes for suspension etc, and drilling new ones through the galv. I don't know how well galvanising works around the area of an ungalved bolt in an ungalved hole, but the galvanising won't lift like plastic coating does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedro Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 i am just about to embark on a chassis swap and am very nervous about drilling my pristine galv chassis. Pretty sure cold galv should work on any freshly drilled holes. http://www.zrcworldwide.com/p_zrc221.asp or sim. Any any experience of cold galv products? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 My chassis (300 tdi Defender 90 standard) came from Marsland with all the holes for the brake pipe clips in it already. In fact, I was told that it is a genuine GKN chassis which Marsland have had galvanised. I'd be very reluctant to drill holes which will compromise the galvanising. Instead, I'm putting M5 stainless nutserts in the holes and using stainless P clips to fasten the pipe. IME, while cold galv. paints are better than nothing, they are certainly no substitute for hot dip galvanising. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 'm putting M5 stainless nutserts in the holes I thought stainless and zinc galv had a dis-similar metal reaction ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 All different metals have the potential for electrolytic corrosion. Even different types of galvanising will corrode differently from one another. Zinc plated nutserts are available but they have a miniscule thickness of zinc over plain steel so I've taken the view that stainless ones will last longer than zinc plated ones even if some corrosion takes place. As I see it, it's whether the bolt has rusted to the nut which makes the difference as to how difficult they are to undo later, not whether the nutsert has corroded in the chassis. I'll be using stainless screws in them so there should be less corrosion where it really matters. I can't make the entire vehicle out of exactly the same material so it's a case of choosing the least worst available combination. I did some reading around and asked a couple of metallurgists and their response was that using stainless would certainly be no worse than using thinly galvanised steel. And everything is being slathered in paint, Waxoil, CopperEase or a combination of the three as it goes together. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disty Posted September 2, 2010 Author Share Posted September 2, 2010 Wow, it's good to get some decent replies! I'm still unhappy with the idea of drilling. Nick, Pedro and Luke- did you chassis come with holes or not? I presume not? Next time I'm up i'm gonna see if there's anything else I can attach to. What are the rules? Can't I just stick something all the way round the chassis rail that keeps it in place? Are there M.O.T. rules on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disty Posted September 2, 2010 Author Share Posted September 2, 2010 Oh and with regard to corrosion, I'm definately going to use some of these: http://www.componentforce.co.uk/category/82/barbed-fir-tree-plugs No metal, no corrosion?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 My chassis came with holes in the right places in it already. I've been told that some MOT testers do not like brake pipes to be secured with cable ties, although frankly I see them as no less secure than the plastic clips used as original equipment by LandRover. I suppose there is an issue with the need to stop the pipes from moving or vibrating due to varying pressure loads, particularly on ABS systems. Where I think I would agree there is a problem is with the pipes being secured by being tied to other 'services', or where other items (wiring etc) are secured by being tied to the brake pipe. Apart from anything else, this makes it difficult to properly inspect the brake pipes and I can understand that being a no-no. Nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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