cjmt Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Hi All, I'm getting ready to start welding and would value opinions. I have a 1996 Discovery, 1 month left to the dreaded MOT and quite a lot of holes. Some people have been kind enough to advise me re the sills already. Job 1 however is the rear passeneger wheel arch and sides of the boot floor. The boot floor looks OKish and hasnt really detriorated since I bought it a year ago. However the passeneger arch is totally rotten and will need lots of patch - fine, I can probably do that. If I'd known more about Discoveries propensity to rust I would have looked a little further than the boot floor.. My questions are about the small panel/ mounting strip to the rear of the boot floor itself and the flat panel behind the wheel arch and next to the boot floor. I dont want to take the boot floor out if I can, time is very pressing and the budget is tight (seems pointless not to replace it if I have to take it out). I think the boot floor will last another winter so it can be done next year, but can I fit replacement panels behind the boot floor and to its left without taking it out?? Obviously some spot welds would have to be drilled out and then welded back, but will I be able to slide the lip of the new panel underneath if thats all I do. I wonder if I should just bodge it now so its safe then take the lot out and do it properly in the summer next year??? Advice much appreciated! I have no metal fabrication experience, but I'm a saddler by trade, so I fabricate in leather all day every day and I need to get the car sorted so have no choice but to learn. One last question. Is this a diesel tank out job??? Many thanks, Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Igol Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 I did mine in the summer and looking at your shots you'll probably find once you start poking away that you'll have to cut a hell of a lot of rust out before you get any decent metal to weld to. I also discovered that the support brackets underneath had gone on one side and needed replacing as well and theres also the possibility of the rear cross member. I did consider bodging it for the MOT but as the back of the car wobbled when you shut the door I decided to do the lot. It took me about a week but a couple of days of that was waiting for new supports, time I used to titivate bits. I did do mine with the tank in situ though most say you shouldnt (kids had a great time with water pistols playing firemen). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 You need to get that rubber mat out aswell dude..patch it over the top..and do a proper job wen better weather starts next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 I did mine just over a year ago, so glad I decided from the outset to do everything, the more you look the worse it gets..... Most of the problem you will have is finding good steel to weld too, looking at your photos... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmt Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 Thanks guys. A bit more concerned now, but thats probably for the best! I'll have to assess properly when its stripped out. I suspect its going to be a make it safe and do the whole lot in the summer job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheltie50 Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Realistically, when you open this job up you will be opening a can of worms. Having said that the job can be done but take your time and do to thoroughly. The side panels will available and not to expensive, using new complete panels will save a lot of time and give a much better job. Recently done a rotten disco and we took eveything behind the seats away, fitted replacement side panels and rear xmember (the rear floor is fastened to it) Made a rear floor out of flat plate, it didnt cost a fortune and is stronger than original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Hi. I am near to finishing my rusty 1997 300 Disco, just used metal of the same gauge for now but it may need doing again in a couple of years. My 200 was in the same state but someone before me had done the main floor so I got the fiddly bits to do. I used 3mm material on the inner and outer sills and across the rear under the bumper and trim. Still looks fine 3 years on. I kept the tank in but put old leather over it odly enough or a damp towel when I was working close to it. Use plenty of underseal,stone chip or bodyschutz when all welded up. A mig welder and small compressor would be useful to you. If you only have the one Landy hire them or ask a mate. I bought when times were better and they have paid for themselves, 6 Landy's in 7 years. Definitely have to get a 300tdi 90 next. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 The panels either side of the centre section are available as a complete panel from the rear corner to the other side of the wheel arch.. If you have extensive repairs to do it's sometimes easier to buy a new panel and cut it to do the repair. This can save a lot of time, the job is neater, and generally is longer lasting. You should cut out all the rust, then assess the best way to go. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmt Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 Thanks all. I'm going to by a replacement side panel to use for the left if I need to, think it will be a better job and a time saver if its as rotten as I suspect. Is the slim panel behind the boot floor that the trim/carpet strip secures to available anywhere pre made?? Many thanks, Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 I don't knoiw to be honest. I've always used pre-formed strips to repair that bit. You can buy preformed strips in a variety of sizes (1/2" x 2" for example). Use 2 - pices to remake the profile of the rear floor-to-door seal edge. The only thing you will lose is the raised parts that the plastic rear strip attaches to, but suitable self-tappers will take care of that. Pre-formed strips are only about £4 for a 1.5 metre length. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheltie50 Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 While your checking the body condition please have a look under the rear wheel arches at the bottom of the C posts, the rear seat belt anchor's are a known corrosion spot, an easy fix but just another corner to be aware of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 To be honest - I wouldn't look too carefully at anything on a 1996 Disco. You should consider the money drain, the missus taking revenge when you are asleep , annoying the neighbours, Complaints from the local council gestapo about the scrap business on your front lawn, total financial ruin, etc, etc. Buy a jap 4x4 - they last forever Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmt Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 Thankfully I dont have any neighbours and I have a small yard at home! However SWMBO looked at me a bit funnily when she out out how much I just spent on a welder! I had a Fourtrak a few cars ago and loved it, but it was rusting round the arches by the time it was 7 or 8. As much of a pain as Discos are, at least you can get parts for them. I defy you to find an outer sill for a Fourtrak for £26! To be honest - I wouldn't look too carefully at anything on a 1996 Disco. You should consider the money drain, the missus taking revenge when you are asleep , annoying the neighbours, Complaints from the local council gestapo about the scrap business on your front lawn, total financial ruin, etc, etc. Buy a jap 4x4 - they last forever Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmt Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 Good tip Les. Forgive the probably stupid question - where did you gt the strips from?? Charlie I don't knoiw to be honest. I've always used pre-formed strips to repair that bit. You can buy preformed strips in a variety of sizes (1/2" x 2" for example). Use 2 - pices to remake the profile of the rear floor-to-door seal edge. The only thing you will lose is the raised parts that the plastic rear strip attaches to, but suitable self-tappers will take care of that. Pre-formed strips are only about £4 for a 1.5 metre length. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Most car body panel suppliers sell preformed strips for sill edge, etc, repairs. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Buy a jap 4x4 - they last forever Les. Les .... wash youre mouth out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Buy a jap 4x4 - they last forever Les. someone call mulder and scully - les has been abducted and replaced by an evil copy...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmt Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Right, inner arch and associated areas is done/bodged! My awful welding prevents photos at the moment, but I have done the wheel arch more or less to my satisfaction and I think it should last a while. I've bodged other areas enough to be water tight, safe for the canine occupants and to get me to better weather next year. I think that it'll actually last quite a bit longer if the whole area isnt permamently covered in damp mud/foam as it has been up to know. As an added bonus the side of the car doesnt wobble when you shut the rear passenger door now... One thing I have discovered, welding upside down is HARD!! On to passenger outer wheel arch then both sills now! Thanks to all for words or advice and encouragment Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 Lol...you wait till you do the sills regarding upside down ! What I found was to use ramps on all 4 corners to elevate to car to do most of the inside underneath welding ... then drive it down and use axel stands to finish the ends... On the ramps it was still 12inches short of me being able to sit upright but better than nothing! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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