FridgeFreezer Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 I'm looking at getting a new tank make up for the 109, in the past we've kinda cobbled stuff together from whatever's around and it's usually worked out OK, but it'd be nice to do it right if possible. The main thing is finding electrical cable, hose, and bulkhead connectors that are happy to live submerged in fuel and, in the case of the electrical connectors, make a fuel-tight seal to the outside world. I know stuff is available from people like ATL, for £eeeek, but there must be a source of suitable bits for sensible money? Tefzel cable looks like a reasonable start, but there's nothing I cansee that explicitly states it's happy being submersed all the time in unleaded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonost24 Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 What about marine suppliers, boats and the like..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 How come you need to have wiring going in? Why not just build a tank and create holes for a standard sender unit, and weld on pipes for filler hose, fuel take-off/return etc.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 3, 2010 Author Share Posted November 3, 2010 How come you need to have wiring going in? In-tank pump and level sender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 How about instead of using a bulkhead conenction, using a gland with a multi hole insert, then you can get a liquid tight seal and more conventional terminals on he outside of the tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 Can you not use a standard pump/sender, such as a Rangie/disco V8 one instead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 4, 2010 Author Share Posted November 4, 2010 Here's one take on it, which is good but not overly elegant with 3/4 wires to connect: http://dsrforum.yuku.com/topic/7544 It would be nice to find a through-panel connector that is fuel-safe and can be sealed, likewise some suitable wire. ATL sell exactly what I want, CFD-520, but $140 for a connector is taking the wee. The gland/grommet idea is valid, although I still can't see anything in various spec sheets about which materials (Nylon, viton, buna, polyamide, etc.) are happy living in fuel and which will disintegrate, which is a useful thing to know for various other reasons too. Edit: Bowie, I plan on using a "standard" pump but not a LR one as they're pricey, there are Ford, Vauxhall and Subaru in-tank EFI pumps all over eBay for £20 which do the job, for that money I can have a spare on the shelf. I'll probably use a stock Series sender, whatever's cheapest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 Wodger, got ya Next question, can you not nick whatever they use in Ford, Vaux, Scooby fuel tanks to do your bit? Or... you could just bring the wiring out the tank breather Or say sod it and buy genuine and have a spare for £20: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Landrover-Defender-V8-3-5-EFi-Petrol-Pumps-2-off-1-New-/290493578161?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a2c43bb1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 Polyester? Bulkhead I know its huge because its a power connecter but hey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 5, 2010 Author Share Posted November 5, 2010 Wiring out of the breather, or rather a separate fitting potted with fuelsafe loctite, has been done and does work. It's just that it'd be nice to have a proper connector on the top a-la the OEMs. Due to bad experiences I don't really like Rover pumps, they're not overly reliable and seem to die/gum up if left out of the tank for any length of time. TBH the pump bit on the end is fairly universal (in shape if not performance) across most cars, give or take the bracketry. The standard hose conectors etc. these days are usually moulded plastic requiring a proprietary connector which you can't buy and which isn't really designed to be diy'd. Is "polyester?" fuel proof or is that a guess? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 I thought you ran a swirl pot in your fuel system ? or is that someone else i'm thinking of I've got one on mine and not had a problem yet {touches wood}. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 Is "polyester?" fuel proof or is that a guess? It was a question, no idea if it is or not. I would have thought it was though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 5, 2010 Author Share Posted November 5, 2010 Zim - Yes I do, but not sure what a swirl pot has to do with it if I go to in-tank pump it frees up the space under my seat, simplifies wiring & plumbing, and gives me a quieter & more reliable fuel pump rather than the current external lift+pressure setup I have at the moment. The swirl pot would probably get ditched as it wouldn't serve much purpose if the pump's sumberged in fuel all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitmole Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 Fridge, nylon is fuel proof, as used in oem fuel lines, another thing to bear in mind is the up to 10% ethanol being added to uk fuel now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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