will4x4 Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 Hi my clutch went the other day and decided i wanted to take the engine out instead of mucking around underneath with the gear box. (i think it was a good idea) Anyway i got it all out in an about 4 -5 hours and the engine is on the floor the prob was the clutch fork i think its called has pushed through and made a hole so would not disengage. Does anyone have any photos of how to put the clutch in now as I'm not sure what to do with all the new bits i have bought.. i have an uprated welded fork which is straightforward but there is loads of other little bits , cone shape things and plastic tooth pics ? Also my clutch release bearing looks different to the one as the new one has a shield aronud it... its part number is FTC5200G (my truck is a 1994 defender 300tdi) Also is there any thing else i should change while im here..i have been reading things like crank seal and spigot bearing... is this worth doing? its done 130k but from what i can see its not leaking. thanks in advance, sorry for all the questions not been this deep into the engine before Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted November 10, 2010 Author Share Posted November 10, 2010 Another quick question: on a usual bearing i.e a wheel bearing you can spin the outer race if yuou hold it in your hands. ON my new clutch release bearing it has a shield around it that wont spin and will only turn if you put your fingers inside and turn it... is this correct? (i cant check against my old one as the whole thing turns like a wheel beaing badly as its well worn). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 the U shaped clips are to hold the 2 oval slipper pads in place, these slipper pads fit on the 2 pins on the clutch fork & then sit on the release bearing sleeve at the flattened areas, the bearing will rotate once it's slide on the gearbox shaft & all fitted with the fork/pads. page 330 trial fit the fork/bearing slipper pads on the bench first before final fit to vehicle,just so you know how it all fits together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 Thanks again western for your fast response. Is there anything else i should change while im here..i have been reading things like crank seal and spigot bearing... is this worth doing? its done 130k but from what i can see its not leaking. Also do i take the cover off this clutch release bearing or is that meant to stay on? thanks Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 armour the clutch fork and fit the rakeway aluminium bearing, genuine crank seal and nice 130 clutch and it'll last for years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 Thanks everyone im happy now to go ahead and know what im doing.. the only thing now is from reading the rebuild thread it keeps mentioning the spigot bush.. which i have bought but cant see where it goes.. sorry for the stupid questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 found it..its in the fly wheel... just need to work out how to get it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glevum Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Fill the old spigot bush with grease and find something that is a close internal fit to the bush. I used a socket extension. Put the extension in the middle of the old bush, hit it with a hammer and the grease will drive the old bush out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 found it..its in the flywheel... just need to work out how to get it out actually it's in the rear end of the crankshaft, if it's not damaged, you can leave it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 another quick question................. i have a clutch alignment tool i bought to get the clutch lined up. If for some reason i fit this wrong or a tiny bit out... am i right in thinking i wont be able to get the gear box together...so i cant fit it wrong drive off and worry about fitting it wrong...it will either work or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 once the gearbox shaft splines have started to engage the friction plate splines, it will pull together, you'll be dead lucky for everything to line up & fit without any effort. the flat side of the friction plate goes facing the flywheel, the raised centre fits inside the pressure cover, once it's fitted bleed & check clutch pedal height,pushrod adjustment at the clutch master cylinder, you'll find the info in this forum with a search for - clutch pedal adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 I do them by eye and they always line up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 I always do them by eye and never had any problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 I bought myself the splined end of an input shaft on a LT77 gearbox and use that-I know it'll fit then, Got it off of e-bay about 3 or 4 years ago cost me £7.50 John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam300Tdi90 Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 I do mine by feel.... I take the gearbox backwards when I've done it in the past. You can get your hands in but you can't see anything! Much quicker tho in my experience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 I find the trick to getting the input shaft back in the splines is to get them together, then with the gearbox IN gear, turn the crank pulley with a socket..... ideally whilst pushing the engine backwards.... this will allow the splines ti slip into place........ oh, and i'vbe NEVER used an alignment tool... in 30 yrs i've never failed yet to get a clutch together without one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted November 12, 2010 Author Share Posted November 12, 2010 i have done it!!! what an arse of a job... another one ill add to the list of don't want to do that again took ages i didn't think about turning the engine over so took me ages to work that.. also my engine crane wouldn't quite stretch far enough plus a whole load of other annoying things.. took me about 6 hours to get it in - better not sign up to Mclaren yet cheers for all your help just need to plumb it all in now.. i really hope i have put the clutch plate in the right way. i did it so the fatter bit stuck out towards the gear box is this right? by the time i had tightened all the bolts up its locked solid... have to wait and see Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 When i did mine, the hoist wasn't 'quite' long enough either, i ended up with the engine hanging 'down' at the back to give the length i needed, then jacked the back of the engine up, and put a ratchet strap around the hoist and bumper to hold tension on it, then wound the engine over and CLICK.... it went together!.. Doing it with the engine out is i'm sure easier than removing the gearbox, esp if you don;t have a ramp and transmission jack etc.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 i have done it!!! what an arse of a job... another one ill add to the list of don't want to do that again took ages i didn't think about turning the engine over so took me ages to work that.. also my engine crane wouldn't quite stretch far enough plus a whole load of other annoying things.. took me about 6 hours to get it in - better not sign up to Mclaren yet cheers for all your help just need to plumb it all in now.. i really hope i have put the clutch plate in the right way. i did it so the fatter bit stuck out towards the gear box is this right? by the time i had tightened all the bolts up its locked solid... have to wait and see Cheers Correct, the friction plate is gripped by the pressure cover & rotates with the gearbox shaft, it'll work when you need to use the clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted November 13, 2010 Author Share Posted November 13, 2010 Not ready yet but just reading ahead in case... cant find the thread clutch pedal adjustment... every time i search it comes up with this thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 see my 2nd reply with attachment in >>>> http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=24390 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smego Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 Make sure you fit the exhaust gasket properly otherwise it will smoke more at the front than the back :roll eyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted November 15, 2010 Author Share Posted November 15, 2010 oi get your jap carp off this landrover forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smego Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Hrmmm, jap carp....still running....urs....overheating....hehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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