fozsug Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 Hi I am having a problem with my 300tdi Disco getting hot underload up a hill at 65, as per my thread....http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=61890. Last ditch effort, a few people have mentioned the possibilty of a blocked waterway.I have flushed the cooling system using Bars flush and Holts flush, but not made any difference. I was wondering if anyone knew of an Industrial Grade Flushibg agent that i could use? Thanks in advance Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davedef90 Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 If you have flushed it twice and no improvement I would be looking towards a new rad or a recore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 How old is your Rad?, It may not be as effective as you think it should be. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 a lot of the garages round here use washing powder (no specific brand) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 Just be cautious about using anything stronger that stuff normally supplied for 'car' engines, although I'd assume the washing powder is safe to use (I cannot comment on its effectiveness). The reason for my caution is that the engine block, and even alloy pump housings, may be OK with harsh chemicals, but I wouldn't be so confident about the heater matrix or the coolant radiator. The heater can be difficult to access and change, both can be expensive to replace. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 i would put my money on it being a blocked rad, had the same prop for a long time in the end i bit the bullit and got alisport rad. sorted it out you get what you pay for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted November 19, 2010 Author Share Posted November 19, 2010 Thanks for the replies The rad is only 6 months old and is an Alisport extra large one, which is why i think the blockage(if there is one!) is in the block not rad or heater matrix(only 4 months old) Someone suggested Mr Muscle sink and Drain cleaner.... bit dubious as think it may be a bit caustic Thanks Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 it might be worth your while getting an infra red temp gauge and when your engine is getting hot, pull over and check various points of the engine for variations in temp. If it is blocked in the engine itself, you will probably find one area will be significantly hotter than the others. Although as your rad is so new - dare i say it - but could there be a manufacturing fault? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted November 22, 2010 Author Share Posted November 22, 2010 it might be worth your while getting an infra red temp gauge and when your engine is getting hot, pull over and check various points of the engine for variations in temp. If it is blocked in the engine itself, you will probably find one area will be significantly hotter than the others. Although as your rad is so new - dare i say it - but could there be a manufacturing fault? Hi , Thanks for the reply. I have used an infa red temp gauge, and showed no 4 getting hotter than rest. I used some Central heating flush at the weekend, and it has improved it, but not cured it, so was going to try again, but leave it in for longer. Cheers Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 just read through your entire thread in the disco section - are you absolutely sure the fuelling is correct? Just because its been checked by a diesel specialist, they probably wont have checked overall fuelling against the stock LR tdi figures. I bet all they checked was the timings etc I say this as you have done absolutely everything except change the block - and the EGT figures you gave normal driving about 370 , when the overheating starts under full load 480 and the radiator temp was 98 by inlet and 85 by outlet All seem horribly high. Also in the other thread you mentioned you put the egt probe in the egr. thats a bit far away from the exhaust valves, so i would suggest that the figures you give above are on the conservative side - means its even more worryingly high. How about winding the fuelling back a touch and trying again. I know it will be slower, but those are some high EGTs and coolant temps. The only thing imparting heat into your engine is the combustion. You have a big radiator, new coolant system, new pump, no headgasket failure etc etc, there is very little left to consider except a knackered block (you havent mentioned if you get horrendous blowby pressure from the oil cap at idle, so i presume it is ok). random thought - dont suppose the timing belt being out by one tooth would cause over heating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 Hi Nick, thanks for taking the time to read through my other post. just read through your entire thread in the disco section - are you absolutely sure the fuelling is correct? Just because its been checked by a diesel specialist, they probably wont have checked overall fuelling against the stock LR tdi figures. I bet all they checked was the timings etc I say this as you have done absolutely everything except change the block - and the EGT figures you gave All seem horribly high. Also in the other thread you mentioned you put the egt probe in the egr. thats a bit far away from the exhaust valves, so i would suggest that the figures you give above are on the conservative side - means its even more worryingly high. How about winding the fuelling back a touch and trying again. I know it will be slower, but those are some high EGTs and coolant temps. The only thing imparting heat into your engine is the combustion. You have a big radiator, new coolant system, new pump, no headgasket failure etc etc, there is very little left to consider except a knackered block (you havent mentioned if you get horrendous blowby pressure from the oil cap at idle, so i presume it is ok). random thought - dont suppose the timing belt being out by one tooth would cause over heating? When i turned UP the fueling as someone suggested it ran hot quicker, so i turned it back to factory setting.( setting it was at when i got the pump) When i flushed it with the central heating flush, it definately improved, not getting as hot under load. There is no blow by past the cap. I too was wondering if the tooth being one out might cause over heating under load? , but why would it sudenly start to get hot underload, the pump was fitted a year ago, and up to 3 weeks ago all was fine? Im going to try the Central heating flush one more time. If no luck will take the front cover off and check timing belt. I have another injection pump but im sure that needs overhauling, or i would put that on and try. Thanks again for you reply Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Timing belt out by one tooth would cause nothing happening but a bit of a willful stutter when cranking, from experience... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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