wicko Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hello I wanted to stop the really bad clunk/bang that happens when I let the clutch out. Its like the shafts are worn out completely , but I always maintain it well and have changed the shafts and flanges regularly... What else can i do to make sure that it runs a bit smoother??? Gear box? Diff? Front diff? Looking forward to your answers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 have a good prod around these to find any excess movement rear axle trailing arm bushes at both ends of arms rear A frame to chassis bushes A frame ball joint gearbox & engine mount rubber blocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I have to be fairly gentile on the clutch or I get a clunk too. Recently, I had to drive my landy in 2 wheel drive with the rear prop removed and it was much worse. I wondered if it had anything to do with the transfer box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 The A-frame ball joint is quite often responsible for 'clonks' when pulling away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wicko Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Nice, Somewhere to start... The rear A frame is what I was told was the load compensator, I had a dismantled and it does not work like it should, Hard to explain but it had some type of thing that made the suspension work better when fully loaded but mine was not working and ceased up so my mechanic took it apart. The trailing arms and all other areas had new bushes done not so long ago.. So could be the A frame or something else... If you use non genuine shafts and flanges does this cause problems?? and I have also seen somewhere about shafts with extra splines, would these if they fit make it any stronger ?? Are the things you mentioned like the A frame zzeasy to move to see if they have extra play in them ?? Does the car need to be on stands ?? thanks Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 if you mean the Boge hydraulic load level strut that fits between the A frame/axle & chassis, if it's dead remove & bin it, it is not a repairable part, LR recommend these are not dismantled as the contain fluid & gas under pressure even though is doesn't work, either fit a new strut or replace the springs with rear springs from a hardtop vehicle. you don't state which vehicle you own, it'll help the rest of us give you relevant info/advice. shove your location [nearest town/city will do] as other members may live in your area & be willing to assist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wicko Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 LOL I live in Nairobi Kenya, have a business called wildbeest camp... So I guess unless anyone is up for a holiday I am on my own except for you great advice. Its my personal vehicle and its a def 110 300tdi 98 model.. The load leveler sounds correct, and I have binned it, the rear springs are now OME 755 with counter part shocks... seems to work well but not same as mate who has 2003 110 TD5 with same springs all round. His rides a lot slower than mine , does not give that feeling of throwing you out of the seatwhen in the rough.... When we scraped the load leveler we put a new bush or rubber of some type, but was quite some time back. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 LOL I live in Nairobi Kenya I grew up in Watamu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I have OME 754's & matching dampers on the rear of my '89 110 County [i removed the strut years ago] it rides much better with a bit of weight in the back, can be a bit bouncy when loadbay is empty. 755's may be a bit to hard as they are meant to ride with a in vehicle constant load of up to 300kgs on board, my 754's have a 500kg constant load capacity & on up to gross vehicle weight. I'm sure you & your LR owning mate will be able to cure any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wicko Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Yes I like Watamu... Now my fiend has only just aquired his 110 and is a bit green still, he has new springs and shocks, mind you mine are three years old but have only been fitted to the car in the last six mths... When I checked the little sticker that is attached to the springs to tell you the type , his says 755 X. mine does not have the X after, Does this mean anything ?? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Can't tell you if the X after the 755 means anything, simply because I don't know, maybe a e.mail to Old Man Emu would result in some usefull ifno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Clonks can also be propshaft u/j s. Chock it, handbrake on and difflock on and jack up one rear wheel. Turn wheel to & fro while listening & looking for clonks. Drop wheel & repeat for front. For A frame, get someone to drive it gently to & fro while you watch underneath(from a safe place to one side)Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wicko Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Thanks guys will update after all of the testing is done... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wicko Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Ok Got under with somebody in drivers seat and got them to engage reaverse, it seems the prop shaft is spinning and does not engage for a second or two, then the clunk happens, can the end of the shaft be worn out ??? Or WORSE! The DIFF ?? Thanks Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 An amount of backlash in the diff and gearbox is not uncommon, and is infact quite normal. Before you contemplate the diff, thoroughly check the propshafts. The UJs wear out. check both prop shafts. If you have swapped the shafts before, it's unlikely to be them, but as it's a 10 minute job to pull each one out, it's easy to check. Have you ruled out the A-frame ball joint? It is a common part to wear out, and produces a healthy 'donk' every time you take up drive, when it fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 The genuine 110 springs for a non-levelled vehicle are coded red/green. The later progressive TD5 110 springs seem to be coded purple. I wouldn't advise anything OME - the springs and bushes are too hard and will break your chassis. And their shocks last about 3 months in Africa. For bushes the Super Pro blue are the best, and Ironman shocks seem to last for ever. For the springs it is best to keep to the genuine ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 not had any problem with my OME springs & dampers over the last 12 years or so, since they've been fitted, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wicko Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 I agree about the OME springs, mine are fine, but the old beaset seems to bounce a little when empty, and the shocks are new. When it has a couple hundred kilos its fine and feels great. NOW back to the clunk I have taken it to a friend who is sound and it does have quite a bit of play in the UJ's but it also as he puts it has a lot of backlash between the end of the shaft and the diff, maybe inch and half... when letting clutch out the prop spins loads before it takes up.. and we reckon its not just the UJ's Any thoughts ?? we will take off the diff cover and look inside but I am not really sure to look for.. Any input would be apprecieted cheers Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellow Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Like you said, might be the diff. Take the prop off and check for play. Easily done by turning the plate where the prop was attached. Play in the input bearing can lead to clunking as well. This play can be in a circular motion, but also back and forth. It basically means that there is too much space for the pignon wheel to move before the crown wheel is engaged. Another way of trying this is to reattach the prop and jack up one wheel. Pull the handbrake and turn the jaked wheel. The wheel should not turn much. But using this method also takes int account any play that is apparent in the prop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wicko Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Thanks yellow, Ok I have taken the prop off and there seems to be a lot of play still. I have turned the plate where the prop was attached and there is still loads of play... The guy who is helping me thought that it was adjustable and that you just wind the nut in and it tightens up the diff. Well we checked and it does not. Also the front has quite a bit of play. I will jack up like you said but I think that I have done that before and it does move quite a lot before it engauges.. My friend says its possible to rebuild the diff?? any thoughts ?? Just to make my day after the guys fitted the Ujs I was on my way home and felt a vibration, I phoned them up told them that it was late and see tomorrow. After a few minutes the back uj on the front prop deceided to explode... Nice Hey!!! Thanks Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shauniedawn Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Hiya. In addition to what you've found, I'd put my money on the splines on the end of the mainshaft and the transfer box input gear splines both being worn out. Shaun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I think you can get a decent second hand diff for not too much money, not sure how much a recon or brand new one would be. Ask around on here and someone may have a cheap second hand one on the go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Could also be wear in the drive flange. I have heard that these can cause quite exagerated clonks on acceleration if worn. When the time comes, I think i'll replace mine with something like these: http://www.mm-4x4.com/heavy-duty-drive-flange---set-of-2-2907-p.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wicko Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Thanks guys seems most of the play was the UJ'S... The rest of the play is not worth worring about... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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