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Door hinge replacement & adjustment


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I have just forked out on a new shiny set of stainless steel hinges to replace the rusting heaps that are currently fitted.

What's the best process to follow to replace the hinges - remove door first and fit new hinge to door before offering back to bulkhead or quite what ?

Also my drivers door currently fits to the frame at the bottom of the door - but fitting where the striker plate the door is not flush by about 5mm - is there any adjustment possible to the pitch and yaw of the door when fitting the hinges or do the J bolts have no adjustmnent vertically/latterally ?

Hope this makes sense - thanks for your help once again

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I have just forked out on a new shiny set of stainless steel hinges to replace the rusting heaps that are currently fitted.

What's the best process to follow to replace the hinges - remove door first and fit new hinge to door before offering back to bulkhead or quite what ?

Also my drivers door currently fits to the frame at the bottom of the door - but fitting where the striker plate the door is not flush by about 5mm - is there any adjustment possible to the pitch and yaw of the door when fitting the hinges or do the J bolts have no adjustmnent vertically/latterally ?

Hope this makes sense - thanks for your help once again

Hiya,

Personally I wouldn't remove the door at all, change one hinge at a time and don't fully tighten the bolts up, there is adjustment in the hinges where they sit in their captive bolts in the bulkhead in all directions.

The problem as I understand is that when your door is shut it doesn't fit flush with the rear panel? If this is the case there are two screws that hold the striker to the door pillar by having two captive/welded nuts on a plate, once you have loosened the screws you can also adjust this so you can pull the door in, up or down here to.

Hope this helps

Paul

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You'll have to at least open the door to get the nuts on the rear side. Having a helper makes the job a lot easier.

To adjust the 'roll' angle of the door (ie. move the top/bottom in or out), increase or decrease the amount of shims between the door and the hinges.

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Thanks Chaps

To adjust the 'roll' angle of the door (ie. move the top/bottom in or out), increase or decrease the amount of shims between the door and the hinges.

Currently there's only one shim a piece on the upper and lower hinge. So hopefully by fitting a further one or two to then lower hinge will bring the bottom out slightly. Which leaves the problem of the upper hinge having one shim and still being too proud compared with the rear tub - perhaps its just a matter of monkeying around with the striker plate to "bring it home" more tighly ?

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I adjusted mine by leaving the bolts not quite tight, then you can lever the door up/down/twist to get the best possible gap all round. Then adjust the door striker plate till it sits flush - I had to file out the holes a little for more adjustment.

Was really pleased with the result :) , then put a new seal on to finish the job and can't shut the door without a huge effort! :angry:

Can't work out how to get it to shut well and flush with the bodywork.

Malcolm

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Thanks for the responses

I purchased the hinges from ox4x4 and they have put a video on YouTube on how to best chnage the hinges - see below...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM2ffHGXRq8

May-be-me. <_<:unsure: But during this information video the bulkhead captive nuts are never described in removal and replacements. :huh: Are they straight forward as they appear being like for like in new for new or old for new. ;) Please feel free to give me a good kicking. :o

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