landroversforever Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Yep, BUT... the steam is enough to steam it up so badly the wipers won't cope, and in between wipes it will steam over again.... If you've been through watery mud, it takes longer to dry onto the engine, but it still steams for ages and ages and ages..... Oh I see (or wouldnt!). I guess it also means the clouds of steam would bloke the view. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 I guess it also means the clouds of steam would bloke the view. Yep, very much so, pretty distracting TBH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Nige - I have an EWP you can borrow if you want. You do need to be aware that more flow does not equal more cooling - if you push the water through the system too fast it's not sticking round long enough to cool down in the rad or pick up heat from the engine. EWP do a speed controller but that's an extra £100 last I looked and I reckon it contains all of a fiver's worth of electronics. You can do other stuff without using an EWP, like change the size of the water pump pulley to increase/decrease the running speed. You need to look at inlet/outlet temperatures of the rad to get an idea of what's going on. I also think you need to be careful of using band-aid solutions to a bigger issue; if things like water wetter or extra holes in the bonnet make the difference between life & death then the system is too marginal to start with. Now you're a truck cab you can whack a big efficient (close-finned) ali rad (or two) in the back without so much fear of clogging, plenty to chose from (anything modern really) just gander round the scrappy for ideas or go to Wessex rads and ask them to browse through their catalogues. As Mike says, it gains you a load of extra capacity in the pipework & extra cooling if you use metal pipes. Kenlowe fans are OK but they're not the ultimate, IIRC Spal do some proper silly ones (they do "normal", "HD" and "super extra sucky sucky extreeeme"). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom A Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 You do need to be aware that more flow does not equal more cooling - if you push the water through the system too fast it's not sticking round long enough to cool down in the rad or pick up heat from the engine. At the risk of starting an almighty thread hijack, the more flow does not equal more cooling myth is erm, a myth*. To have it explained more clearly than I probably could, take a look at this page. Nige, there's some other worthwhile stuff on cooling system design (albeit for a LS3) that might be of interest too..... *well ok, ignoring aeration and cavitation and not worrying about pumping losses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 At the risk of starting an almighty thread hijack, the more flow does not equal more cooling myth is erm, a myth*. To have it explained more clearly than I probably could, take a look at this page. Nige, there's some other worthwhile stuff on cooling system design (albeit for a LS3) that might be of interest too..... *well ok, ignoring aeration and cavitation and not worrying about pumping losses That is the view held in the computer water cooling world - maximum flow without cavitation etc. Okay so it's somewhat different to an engine cooling system, but in my PC I have pumps, radiators, fans and heat sources. And water-filled tubes linking the lot, the same principle applies! If I ramp up the speed of the pumps, I can knock a few degrees off my CPU/GPU temps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Nige, Is your radiator alloy or copper ?, Allisport quote 20% more efficiency/cooling effect over a standard coper and do custom sizes worth a phonecall ! I spent a day calling them and being told the phone was off and should send a Tex and that got rejected so I'm a tad miffed at there service, I spoke to JE as they sold me my last big intercooler a few years ago and they gave me the number of a small rad firm who have agreed to build to my exact spec and some of there advise as well including the structural add on's I needed to fit within my spacframe. The TMC's 5.3 V8 is a little quick to warm up and when running is predominantly flat out anywhere between 2k and 6k as it's on a 3sp gear box so its held in gear a lot longer than normal 5 & 6 speeds are under race conditions. You need capacity and air flow. I was thinking of going Ally but the thought of if a stone goes thought it and it then being scrap did put me off a fair bit. Weight is pointless as your filling it with water, and I'm not worried about a shinny engine bay. So I went with a old fashioned rad which if I damage racing I can braze up to keep me going. So there phone being switched off also saved me at least £300 and my new rad arrives next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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