nas90 Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 I have replaced 3 rear radius arm bushes in as many months, all after some fairly heavy off-roading, including Slindon last week. 2 one side 1 the other side. Always LR OEM bushes. The set-up has remained the same for 6 years; +1inch springs, Rancho RS9000 shocks, standard radius arm. Is it now time to change to cranked arms? Have LR got a batch of duff bushes? (the latest bush did not seem to have sufficient bonding on one steel backing) am I not fitting bushes correctly? or should I only take the NAS to Tesco's car park? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 I suspect its cheap bushes, as in land Rover using cheap bushes not you ! Fit Cranked Radius arms and forget, I've had this set in for around 18 months and no wear as yet and that includes Slindon as well HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted August 7, 2005 Author Share Posted August 7, 2005 So modify the existing arms with the inherent problems of length change / not jigged so different side to side or splash out on ready made? Any suggestions / prices? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NegevLandRover Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 I had this very same problem a few months back and posted a query similar to yours with no feed back. I now know for a fact that the guys making the said bushes had a dud run. I now run OME bushes and am a happy man. Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 Rangie Spares/Les Richmond Automotive do a taper shim/kicker that slips between the triangular bracket and chassis plate to 'correct' the angle of the bush. I've also found that Fulcrum Suspensions, the manufacturer of Super Pro bushes here in Oz make a superior designed bush that will totally outlast the OE one. Yes it is urethane, but it is the only spot I will use a poly type bush, and the Super Pro one uses heavier thickness plates (so the don't bow/bend with the load) and use a circumferal groove and chamfers around the OD of the bush to allow it to flex/articulate (more than the OE bush) without stressing the bush material, yet the actual compression characteristics are better than OE, reducing the dreaded rear steer. They've been in my 130 for around 80,000km now. If you really want to make some cranked arms, there are some good threads on the Outerlimits Rover forum, generally using 40mmx20mm DOM tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 use a circumferal groove and chamfers around the OD of the bush to allow it to flex/articulate (more than the OE bush) without stressing the bush material, yet the actual compression characteristics are better than OE, reducing the dreaded rear steer. For goodness sake Rick! I've only had 2 glasses of red and that sentence is already doin' me 'ed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 ...................if ya can't dazzle 'em with brilliance, baffle 'em with bull.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 Out of interest, do knackered radius arm bushes result in unusual tyre wear? When viewed from the side, the tread blocks on both my back tyres (Avon Rangemasters) have worn in a slight sawtooth pattern round one edge. I've seen similar wear on other 110s, but can't see what's causing it on mine. Could one of my radius arm bushes have gone a bit soft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 do knackered radius arm bushes result in unusual tyre wear they can, although aggressive tyres (not familiar with the Avons) tend to wear that way. eg, my BFG MT's do that, as do the old pattern Cooper STT's, etc. With the old OE bushs, I was getting a toe out like wear pattern on the rear tyres, just from the back axle rear steering around too much. Relatively frequent rotation and balance seems to be the key there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 You'd never call avon rangemasters aggressive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 Thanks - so it does sound like the axle might be waggling around a little and wearing out my grrrrrangemasters Might think about some harder bushes at some point - once I've finally fitted all the bits that came back from Billing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lara Posted August 10, 2005 Share Posted August 10, 2005 Talk to Devon 4x4 they have kinked arms in 1.5inch dia bar so uprate your arms and kink them and cost about 120 pounds a pair. So cheap it's not worth going to the metal stockest to buy the material Lara. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streaky Posted August 11, 2005 Share Posted August 11, 2005 I looked at two or three different manifacturers at Billing and went with the QT ones in the end for front and rear. Can't remember the price though coz I ain't got the bill yet. If the trucks lifted I'd be inclined to go with Rover rubbers. We've tried every type on the market and ended up breaking the whole lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted August 12, 2005 Share Posted August 12, 2005 Hi Rick, I have a full set of super pro (blue) bushes on my 110. They seem pretty unique here in South Africa, where many people are against poly bushes because they stress the chassis more than the std rubber bushes. How do you rate the super pros? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted August 12, 2005 Author Share Posted August 12, 2005 We do some laser cutting for a company down the road who manufacture all sorts of rubber bushes. Apparently Rhino Ray, for whom we also do laser cutting, has special rubber bushes made for the Suzuki SJ 410/413/Vitara steering arms. Now the people who make the rubber bushes and mounts took one look at my miserably broken LR bush and mumbled made in India blah blah blah better look at making you a proper bush. The bush rubber has the steel washers at both ends pulling in tension which is not good for 60 shore rubber. So my expert customer will hopefully come up with a design that keeps working with 60 shore rubber rather than 100 something shore for polybushes. Watch this space! In the meantime I'm off to Devon and QT to find prices etc, thanks for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender300td1 Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 nas 90 was wondering how you get your bushes out do you burn the middle out, hacksaw, then knock them out ?? or do you know a better way i know there is a removal tool called a bushwacker but i cant justifie £300 advice much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 nas 90 was wondering how you get your bushes out do you burn the middle out, hacksaw, then knock them out ?? or do you know a better way i know there is a removal tool called a bushwacker but i cant justifie £300 advice much appreciated I use a 40 ton press these days, but have been known to use the oxy and a hacksaw in the past........ And I still believe Super Pro make a superior bush. I have them everywhere now except the diff end of the lower rear trailing arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 nas 90 was wondering how you get your bushes out do you burn the middle out, hacksaw, then knock them out ?? or do you know a better way i know there is a removal tool called a bushwacker but i cant justifie £300 advice much appreciated if you have a good quality hacksaw blade - takes about 5 minutes per bush to remove. And i mean a proper blade, not some junior hacksaw 99p rubbish from halfrauds or the pound shop! if your bushes are well worn, you'll probably find the metal inner will just fall out without any burning - in which case just cut the rubber out with a stanley knife blade and hacksaw through the outer in 2 places. It'll drift out with 2 or 3 hits with a suitable drift/screw driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender300td1 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 ok thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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